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How do you paint a window frame?

In this extra long episode I am going to show you all the secrets of the blacksmith

that no painter would share with you! I'm going to show you how to remove the putty.

And all the steps show what to do before you can apply the putty!

How many layers of paint do you need to apply to get a good result?

What should you do if the topcoat failed and you want to finish it again?

If you want to know all the steps how you can achieve this beautiful end result,

grab a large bowl of chips and drink with it and we will start soon !!

Painting company Edens, the professional for your home!

This episode is made possible by Soudal.

Soudal, the best sealant for the painter.

Hi and welcome to Edens painting company. My name is John Edens.

And through my channel you will receive very nice painting tips, so that

you as a do-it-yourselfer can paint it yourself. So are you not a subscriber yet? Subscribe

to my channel below and press that call, so you don't miss a painting tip.

We're going to remove the putty from both windows. Both this and that other window.

And in both windows I'm just going to show you how you could do it.

The big difference is that these windows actually have some ribbed edges in them.

And there is also some stained glass in it. So that makes it all a bit more difficult

than if you have a very smooth window in it. But I'm going to walk you through step by step

of how to get rid of that. And also how you can make it beautiful again.

So that your window can become tidy again. Well if you look at this, you can see

that it is actually loose on the edge as well. So I'm gonna cut this out. And if you look further

up, it is actually a bit better. What I'm going to do, I'm going to get it up here, I'm going to cut

it out. Because it doesn't make much sense to stop here halfway. So I'm going to get

this down from here . And then we're going to go over like this, we're going to take this section off and if you go

past that rippled glass, yes you just have to be careful. I'm going to show you how to

do this later . But you see that there are those cracks everywhere. And that is of course a

shame. So naturally that will allow the moisture to enter. Then you get that it also

comes loose here. So it is also loose on that edge. And we are going to remove all that. And look, if you look in

here, you see that the one within that edge, we have to try to push

that later . So then I'll let him walk here. This piece is still good. But if you then look here again, it is

loose again. So that's why I'm going to get to that corner again, I'm going to cut this out, even though this is

good. Just prefer to do it to the corner. And then we can put this part back in too.

I use a cleaver when chopping out. And I sharpened it slightly. Especially in the point

and also the front I sharpened. A cleaver is just very handy. If you are going to do that

with a scraper, you will also notice that the force you have to put on it is

simply too great. While if you just use a cleaver and a hammer, you can tap it out a bit

easier. It can be tricky at times but I'm just going to show you how

best to do it. And possibly a chisel for the small corners if you just can't get to it.

I'm going to carve out a lot now. I'm just going to show you one by one how you can possibly

improve that. And if you pay attention, I think you'll get it done. If you

are not yet a subscriber, just click on the yellow icon or the red button below,

if you do not want to make mistakes in your painting job and we will get started quickly.

The lower parts are already quite loose. These are easy

to tap out. You may already be able to scratch it out with a scraper,

but it is also quite quick with a cleaver. The disadvantage is that the putty does not stick to the

glass but also to the lead. That is why some of it remains behind, but we will remove that later.

With the scraper we remove as much as possible

and try to get the wood as clean as possible.

With a glass scraper I remove the remnants of paint and try

to clean as much as possible between the lead and the glass.

When it is clean, I use a small piece of wood to push the lead back against the glass as much as possible.

Well,

if you are going to chop then you make sure that your cleaver preferably as flat as possible,

a bit in that angle, like that. If you are going to put too much in this way, you will of course cut

into the wood. So try to put it there as much as possible and watch out with that point.

Look here you have another piece of protection. But if you normally have glass,

you will soon have a break in it. So always keep it a bit in terms of space and then you can

cut through. And then you can remove the last piece with a scraper or something

. Of course the bottom is not that difficult. Because it was already quite hard. And actually

jumped off, as it were, but the sides, if they are still good, then it becomes a bit more difficult.

So I'm going to show you how best to do that. Well it is already loose here. So this will

probably be easier. But the part above this is just stuck. And because it can be done

properly , it could probably still be a bit tough. Then it is

useful that you no longer put your knife in, but that you actually tap a piece out from the middle first

. And then it becomes easier to transfer your knife like that afterwards.

Look and now you see exactly that there is really a corner in it and because you actually place your cleaver,

what I say in the middle, so actually in this corner, you actually go through it

exactly through the middle and then break it a little easier. And then you also get it out much

looser. This part you see, this is of the lead. We 'll just clean that part

nicely with a scraper and try to remove that part in between, this part that is

in it. Also with a scraper or a small putty knife or whatever.

Of course, this is all manual work,

so always try to see which tools are best for you at that time.

Well I have here, I have removed the old paint remnants so that you can also go through this nice and tight line with your line

. And then you only see your line and not that paint of the

green or white is still coming through. And of course you can try to do that much more everywhere.

Let me show you how I do that. Well, I try this one with sandpaper,

try to keep it together as much as possible and then sand it lightly.

And you can scrape away the last remnants.

Well, you can stay underneath this later on.

These are all activities that not every painter would do. And that may

not have to be done like that, but the more you do it, the better your end result

would be. That is why I also show you those very small activities,

to make your work even more beautiful. Get what you can use.

I am using a sandpaper here that has already been used on the sander.

I am using P120 here. So always keep your old sandpaper, because you can

probably use it for another part. With a putty knife you can press more on your surface.

If you have removed everything neatly. And you cleaned it nicely,

the way I showed you, then we are going to do the next step. And this step is very important.

Of course, since the putty was broken, the water could have gotten in there.

And that's why I actually want to make this edge a bit bigger. Because of course the

moisture entered there . And it may well be that there is still some moisture behind this.

So I prefer to be on the safe side and then I get this piece, remove with the hair dryer.

I am using a hair dryer here that can reach 650 degrees. It is important that you have a

good hair dryer for these tasks. In the description you will find a link to Bol.com

where you can buy a good hair dryer. If you click on the link you can view the hair dryer

and possibly buy it or choose another one that suits you better. Because you click on the link,

I receive a piece of commission from Bol.com as soon as you buy something, so that you use it to sponsor

my channel. And do you want to buy something completely different via Bol.com, such as a new washing machine?

Then always click on a link from me so that you are directed to the website of Bol.com,

search for the product that you wanted to buy and that way you pay nothing extra at all,

but you help my channel to grow further. ! Thanks in advance for your help!

I mill the connection seams with a 9 mm cutter. I will soon fill these seams

with Renovaid's Renoflex paste. You can also purchase the cutters through me.

In practice, there are sometimes things that I have not completely figured out in advance

. To show to you. But now there are things I think about,

I want to show you this for sure. Because I often get questions about this too. And that's why it's

good for you to subscribe to my YouTube channel below. So you won't miss

those little practical tips. I'm going to show you something. Which you probably recognized. Look I've

already done the repairs here. That is already dry. But what you see here. Is that

there is actually still a lot of paint on it. And a lot of people ask me, how far do I have to

burn to get that done? And here too you see that I stopped halfway through. Well,

what I did here is actually took most of it off so that this can air out.

But for me the scraper was no longer sharp enough. I only took off the top coat.

But now you can choose, am I going to remove this completely or can you sand this? Well I'm going now,

because it is a practical example and I knew that my scraper was not sharp enough, can I

also show you okay? What happens if you leave it like that? Or what happens if you take another

part off? So I'm going to take a piece out first. Just scrape this away with a sharp scraper

and I will also show you a piece, without a sharp scraper. how much to sand.

Well you see how tight this has gotten. All layers are off. This is pretty clean. And if you

compare that to the part here. Then you will really have to sand this thoroughly. And

I'm going to show you that too. If you can't burn that far, how do you get it done.

So it was sanded from this line? That way and it's just burned from here

. Well you can see the difference that these are actually still the things here,

in itself this is not that bad, but you can get this completely away if you first

scrape it away with the scraper. And there is a big difference between this and this one. And if

you compare this then I would rather scrape this away and then sand it afterwards.

I used Renovaid's orange Renoflex paste for the repairs. I have done this

before so that I can now scratch away all sharp edges with the scraper. Please note

that you do have to prime the orange Renoflex paste. I also sell the orange Renoflex paste

by tube, so that you can get the epoxy paste out with a caulking gun!

After sanding, I clean the paintwork with water and ammonia. If you keep

your old nitrile glove, you can

use it for cleaning. Your hands will then stay nice and dry.

Everything has now been updated. As you can see, not all paint has been removed. In this episode I am

going to show you how to neatly rebuild the layers of paint, to this beautiful result. So

stay tuned to learn these things too! Well you have seen the difference between sanding

and scratching first and then sanding. You can see that it is better in terms of speed to scratch

it as well . But there is also a technical reason why I prefer to scratch. And

I will tell you a bit more about that later. Because if you do that wrong, your finish will not be

beautiful. And you don't want that. Because you put a lot of work into it. I will tell you

more about that later . We will now first concentrate on the work we wanted to do,

which is to apply the putty. Well I've done all the moves before we stop.

I made everything bald, I sanded, I did the repairs. And also cleaned

everything . And now we actually turn to the act that is most important in

this episode. That is the following.

Well you see how it turned out. Nice and smooth,

nice and clean and before we will apply the putty here. And which putty that is,

I will show you later and how you can do that. But before you do that treatment,

we will first ensure that we ground the wood. And certainly this just has to be well grounded. You

do not have to apply the primer to the glass here. And not on this either. Just on the

wood. Make sure you have grounded that well. And once you've done that, let it dry for a while.

Then we can switch to the action that we are going to do today. Stopping the window.

And we ground that part precisely to prevent that if it breaks in the future,

that you do not have bare wood underneath so that the moisture can penetrate again. But that there is

always a layer of paint underneath. Plus, if you are going to apply the putty or another material,

then you prevent the components of a new material from immediately

absorbing the wood . And if you ground it first, then you just have a nice seal with

the paint and the adhesion of the new material will also be much better on

your surface. So we're going to ground him first. And then we move on to the next step.

This is another window on the side of the facade. Here, too, the seams are

milled out with a 9 mm cutter. I also sometimes use the 5 mm cutter, but

I will show you in another episode. The seams have been primed

with Renofix orange primer and repaired with Renovaid's orange Renoflex paste. You may

be wondering how you can do that whole milling, priming and repairing process? There

you go, I will soon tell you more about that no mistakes in it have to do.

I do the priming with Wijzonol SDT ultra primer. This is a well-filled primer so that

you can apply a nice layer thickness on your surface. You now only ground the parts that are bare

. You don't have to ground all the good parts just yet. I apply the primer with the green

Futura brush of Goudhaantje size 16. I also use a purple brush size 14.

All materials and paint that you have seen in this episode or in other episodes are for sale through

me. Many other handymen have already purchased their materials by

emailing info@schildersbedrijfedens.nl. Mail your shopping list and I will send

the products to you. In this way you always have the right products that I also use, you

pay the wholesale price and more importantly, you sponsor my channel so that I can continue to make many

more of these types of videos for you so that you can be helped with the odd jobs!

So you apply the paint to the bare parts first. This lets you move on to the good parts. I now consciously show

you a lot of visual material, so that you can see how I do that. In my early years

I quickly painted over an entire frame, which took you much longer, but that

does not clear up those height differences. And many handymen have problems with this. If you

look closely at how I do that, I will update the bare parts and try to paint

as little as possible on the old parts that are still good. And in this way you can prime a frame faster without

having to paint the frame completely. After the first primer coat has dried,

the fibers of the wood will harden. You can remove this with a fine sandpaper,

I would say P220 and apply a second coat of paint.

I paint along the glass with my brush. I use my brush a lot because it

allows you to paint in a controlled manner. For the somewhat larger areas I take my round brush.

What you don't see me doing is that I put on a very thick layer? But a very thin

layer. I have not thinned my paint. But kept thick. But what I want to do

is spread that thick paint as much as possible so that I have a thin layer

. And with that, it will also penetrate much deeper into the underground.

Had you primed the entire frame or touched up

the bare parts first, just like I did? Let me know in the comments

how you do that. I am curious who the real handymen are.

After priming, we let everything dry first. I'm going to learn

step by step how you can apply the putty neatly again, so stay tuned!

We arrived at applying the putty. And that's what I'm going to use this one for. The

Soudaseal Tradition.

This is actually a putty substitute.

If I were to put putty in it, it would take about 7 weeks for it to really harden properly. And that

you can reapply the paint there. And that will be difficult for me in the project. To then apply

putty and then have to paint. Because then that is not yet

dry properly? This is actually some kind of kit. When you apply this, it is actually a replacement

for that putty, but it also dries much faster. You also apply this with a gun. This

is a sausage. You have a special gun for that. I have one in which you have a metal tube

like this one. This one is transparent. So it doesn't really matter what you do. I'll just use the transparent one for

today. I'm going to put it in there. And then we're going to take it with this, we're going to close the edges of

the glass. Well, you do this, you put it in there. Can you tighten it

until it is tight. You pull this forward and then you can pull it out and then you can go into the

opening there, you can put that sausage in. And you can see, it is already in color RAL 9010. And if you

have done that, then you can then put on a spout. This is the ring that has to be

put in and the spout you push it in. Now it is stuck and then you can put it on top.

You just have to cut this open, of course. And if you have cut it open, you press

it in immediately in one action. And then you secure it. And when you have this done, cut this

to the basically width you need for the putty. I measure the width

with such a slat. About how wide it is. And then when you have that done. Then we cut this,

actually straight out. So we are not going to cut it diagonally. But we cut it right. So that you

also have a nice straight edge and then you can use that to make the kit come out.

Normally I do that with putty. If things go wrong once, you can take the putty

out again. And try again. You should actually do this putty replacement right in one

go. So what I've done is mask the glass for myself. Because it is a

bit rippled. And there is also stained glass and that makes it all a bit more difficult for me.

Also because I do not do these activities on a daily basis. So it's just as good practice for me

as it is for you. But in the end we go for the result. That it is neat and sleek. Normally

you are used to actually pulling him along like that. in this case we are not going to do that.

We cut that spout a bit straight. So we're also going to put the putty straight on it as much as possible

. So the syringe goes right on it. And then we're going to put it on like that.

Because part is a kit, I also use the Soudal wiper,

which you can use for that. I'll throw some in. And then you can just use a brush,

you can wet this for a while, to be able to brush it off properly.

You can see me working with different tools. I show you this consciously, so that you see

that you can use quite a lot of different things to get it tidy.

It is important with everything that you press your tools well against the glass

so that you can close the seal properly. The putty goes in at an angle. Try to keep the

height of the inside, so that you sit at the same height inside and outside with the edge

that you will paint on later. Now you have applied it all the way to the adhesive tape.

Do you find these tips valuable? And if you can learn a lot from it, you can help me enormously by

giving me a blue thumb. So give me as many blue thumbs as possible! I'm thinking about

3000 thumbs! With your thumb my channel will grow and I can make many more

movies like this for you!

I wet it for a while and then I run

my finger well. For a moment it concerns the sealing of the glass

and the putty. That it is properly closed and we will clean the rest later.

Well, it wasn't easy for me to do it either. I had to film,

I had to apply the sealant. I have to consider the glass. And the stained glass.

But as far as we have now it is important that you close the seam between the glass

and the putty that you have it properly. So that the water does not get in there. I let

it dry now and then I check after drying, the day after to see how it is doing. And

then I clean the glass and then see how we can continue.

This window is the window where the wood rot was inside. I do this without masking.

Because I want to show you what you can do if your window has gotten dirty.

I have this side, I deliberately did not tape it. To show you

when it gets really dirty. How do you get it nice and clean? And in the end we will

also get the best result out of this. Most important, as I just said,

that the glass and the putty are well put together so that you do not get any inwatering there.

The putty is now dry. I'm going to clean it now. I have already

cleaned part of it . But I'm going to show you a piece of how to get it clean. I've

already cleaned it up nicely here. I also cleaned the stained glass strips

. And I'm going to show you how to get this nice and clean again.

Use a putty knife and hold it as straight as possible against the glass. With a

glass scraper you can first remove the excess. I really use this glass scraper

for everything. The loyal viewers can confirm this, that they have seen him more often in my

videos. You can also order these through me including extra blades.

You only remove the largest part and with the cleaning cloths

from Soudal you can then polish away the last remnants and that

way you clean your glass nicely so that you can paint better later.

And even now you can get it very nicely! Let me know in the comments if you prefer masking

with the Kip 3308 or if you want to clean it a bit more afterwards! The soudaseal tradition

has hardened quickly and is quite tough and strong! And that's what we want.

If you have cleaned it completely, and you are satisfied yourself,

you can clean a lot with water, plain clean water, to remove all

soap residue and thus create that you get a good adhesion with the

paint. So I'm going to clean it completely now. And then we can move on to the next step.

My window is completely clean now. And now I'm going to cover it with the chicken 3308. This leaves no glue residue.

And I will deliberately mask it with this tape because I want to actually fill the edges around it, along

the glass, I actually want to fill as much as possible with paint. So if you can mask it for a while, you

can also go a bit fuller with your brush. And you also have the seal very nicely

closed. Because the lead is always in between, it makes masking a bit more difficult and that is why

I am going to show you how you can possibly do that. Bring the tape to the top first, in the point.

If you look at this, you will see that there is still a mm of space in between. I do this first

as well, you see. So that it is actually against the lead. If I hold it on top for a moment, I

hold it. Let me walk it over the part where I want it later. And when I

've done that, I'm going to push it in first. Then I first put this in and then you can smooth out the rest

. Then you will also see that the air bubbles are the most out.

When cutting I leave it on the point and then diagonally upwards. Look and now you have a nicer straight line along it.

Leaving 1 or 2 mm of space between them is very important. This will prevent you

from pulling the paint later. In this way you get a nice line and you

can maintain that 2 mm of paint on the glass that you normally have to keep when you

paint by hand. This is to keep the seal tight at all times.

You can now start painting the whole. You can now

also ground the parts that you had not done yet. In this way

the window is completely primed. I use the Wijzonol SDT Ultra primer.

After the primer has dried, you can matt it with a scouring pad or very

fine sandpaper P220. Then you can seal the seams. There is still quite a bit of force on

these seams and that is why I seal them with the Glaskit TS from Soudal. That is a strong glazing sealant.

The letters TS stand for Two systems, which means that you can easily paint it

with turpentine paint and water-based paint. So you will not have any problems with silicone traces

in the sealant. If you order the kit through me, you can also buy small amounts of acid-free

soap and a brush. Acid-free soap is advised so that you will not have a problem

of detachment with your paint later on ! After sealing, let the sealant dry. When

the sealant is dry, you also clean it well with clean water. And then you can ground it.

If you have time in between or have 5 minutes to spare

at the end of the day, you can prime the most vulnerable areas. In this way, the most

vulnerable parts will get a primer coat perhaps 3 or 4 times and your paintwork will become

stronger. If you look at it at an angle, you can see the shiny spots where I also applied extra paint.

If you are ready for a topcoat, you can sand it down before you start

topcoat. I actually call that polishing. With a very fine sandpaper and briefly with water.

This actually removes all the pimples that are in it and when it is dry,

you can use a scouring pad to matt it completely. And when that is finished,

it is beautifully finished. To be able to top it off.

For finishing I use the green Futura Brush from Goudhaantje. And if you look at the

stem, you will see that the logo is already gone. That's because this is a fairly older brush. But you can see

how beautifully clean it still is. I just cleaned it well. And after I cleaned it.

I just put it in the raw linseed oil. And you can see that those hairs are still very beautiful. This

is size 16 that I use. If you have a slightly larger brush, you can, but it is quite

firm in your hand. So I prefer to use size 16. And I use for the brush, I

do not use a Futura brush but a Purple brush and I also put that in the raw linseed oil. And you can

see that those hairs remain nice and soft. And this is size 14. So do you want to order those brushes and times?

Then you can simply order it through me. And then you just get a nice set. I am going to finish it

with the Ultra high gloss lacquer from Wijzonol. If you are going to buy such a pot, pay attention to this logo,

which is written here. This indicates that the paint is a renewed version and therefore

dries faster in the winter. This is a siliconized paint. So actually it is

very greasy. And then it just takes a lot longer to dry. So with that logo on it, you know

that you bought a paint can that dries faster. Don't you have that logo on it? Then

you can just use it quietly. Only you have to take into account that it needs a little longer

drying time and this is a new version. As a result, it will dry quickly. So I

'm going to apply this one on. And then you will see that your result is just going to be very nice and tight.

Before you start painting, do the following. You have to blow

into your hand for a moment , but then actually let condensation get into your hand and then you have

a damp hand. And then you can just get the last things out. Then

you just remove those small, perhaps small pimples or grains of sand,

you just remove them. And then you just know that it is super smooth. And then you can start painting.

It is almost half past two. So I'm going to continue painting the frame. When it's done,

I'm going to show you how it turned out. But can I also keep an eye on

whether it really dries quickly before it is 5 o'clock.

I will immediately explain why I would rather burn off more than sand too coarsely to remove

the paint layers. This is a very important tip that every handyman should

know! The topcoat is actually identical to the priming and also in the same order

as I did during the priming. So check that section again if you're not

quite sure. I do make more use of my Goudhaantje brush when I finish painting.

Imagine that the painting process fails. For any reason? Maybe there is

too much dust in it? Or do you have too many flies in it? Or whatever. How do you solve that? Because

actually, if you have the SDT Ultra from Wijzonol, then that is a very greasy paint. And you can't

start painting again the day after. So I have a very practical tip for you on how

to speed up this process. So stay tuned so you don't miss this tip.

Earlier in this episode I explained to you that I would rather burn a little more than sand

too coarsely . And that process that you carry out there has to do with your final layer. The finer you

sand and the less scratches you make, the more your paint layer will shine. You have to remember

that all those little scratches all have to be filled with paint and that can break the shine. The

finer you sand, the smoother your surface will be and your paint will shine better at the end.

Just before finishing I sanded the frame wet. And for that I used sandpaper

P1200. You can buy this per sheet from me so that you can also imitate these beautiful actions

and make your frame shine beautifully! Because the more shine you can create,

the stronger your painting will become! And in the longer term, you will save

more money with that if you can increase the intervals of your painting work.

When it's all done, it will look like this. Omdat de SDT ultra hoogglans verf van

Wijzonol een hele mooie vettige laag bevat, is het bijna niet mogelijk om binnen een week

het opnieuw te schilderen zonder dat je de kans hebt dat de verf gaat rimpelen. Maar

misschien wil je hem wel overschilderen omdat je er teveel vliegen op hebt gekregen. Nou hoe

kun je dat oplossen? Zorg dat je de dag erna, het opnieuw met de schuurspons gaat matteren.

Dit zal het drogingsproces gaan versnellen en je hebt grote kans dat je dag daarna,

het alsnog opnieuw kunt aflakken! Je moet dan niet meer schuren,

maar wellicht enkel schoonmaken als dat nodig is. En mocht je de tijd hebben,

dan zou ik zeker enkele dagen er tussen laten voordat je opnieuw wilt aflakken na het matteren.

Je ziet heel wat verf langs de muur. Er komen zonneschermen langs de muur,

dus de verf op de muur zul je niet meer gaan zien. Maar ik ga nog wel

een aflevering hierover maken hoe je dit mogelijk kunt verwijderen. Dus abonneer

je zeker op mijn kanaal zodat je deze waardevolle tips niet hoeft te missen!

Als je al deze stappen gebruikt bij jou kozijn, dan kan het niet anders,

dan dat jij bijna elke kozijn super mooi kunt krijgen. Het enige nadeel van deze aflevering

is dat ik je niet helemaal stap voor stap heb kunnen uitleggen hoe je de reparaties

kunt doen. Want dan was de aflevering nog langer geworden. Maar helaas gebeuren er heel veel fouten

bij het repareren van houtrot, waardoor je de andere stappen eigenlijk voor niets hebt gedaan!

Nou om je te leren hoe je houtrot stap voor stap kunt herstellen heb ik een aflevering

bij dezelfde woning gedaan waarin ik je het hele proces ga leren. Hier rechts in

het scherm vind je die aflevering. Ga die zeker bekijken, zodat jij exact weet waar

je op moet letten bij houtrot repareren en leer je alle geheimen die geen schilder met

je wilt delen. Vergeet niet te abonneren en gun mijn mij zoveel mogelijk blauwe duimpjes

als beloning voor deze waardevolle informatie en ik zie je in het filmpje hiernaast, Adis!