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Practice English Speaking&Listening with: Measuring Finger Strength!! Pro Climber vs. Amateur Climber! How Big is the Difference?

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-[Delaney] Am I doing it?

-[Geek Climber] Yeah.

-[Albert] Jeez.

-[Geek Climber] Whoa.

That's insane.

-[Albert] She weighs 50 pounds less than me and can hold just as long.

-[Geek Climber] Wow, that's the difference between the pros and the amateurs, guys.

Today, we are joined by two very special guests, pro climber, Delaney, and super strong amateur

climber, Albert.

-[Delaney]I'm Delaney Miller, and I was a pro climber for like the last 10 years and now I'm a writer

for Rock and Ice, and Gym Climber.

-[Albert] Hi, I'm Albert Ok.

I've been climbing for a few years and I run my own YouTube channel.

-[Geek Climber] Awesome.

So, I've always wondered how much more finger strength exactly does the pros have compared

to average climbers like us.

So, I brought a crane scale and a portable hangboard today to find it out.

I'm going to start with the right hand.

-[Albert] Come on.

Come on.

-[Geek Climber] Okay.

-[Delaney] Nice.

-[Albert] How much is that?


Almost 90.

-[Delaney] That was good.

-[Albert] Dude.

-[Geek Climber] Oh, so that's more than half body weight.

-[Albert] Let's go.

-[Geek Climber] I'm happy.

Okay, left hand.

-[Albert] All right, come on, come on.

-[Delaney] Come on.

-[Albert] Pull hard.

Pull hard.

Come on.

-[Geek Climber] Pull.

-[Albert] Come on, come on, come on, come on.

More, more, more, more.

-[Delaney] Come on.

Come on.

Come on.

Come on.

Come on.

Come on.

-[Albert] Nice.

-[Geek Climber] Oh.

-[Delaney] Nice.

-[Albert] Dude, you're pretty balanced.

-[Geek Climber] Man, okay, so my left is slightly weaker than the right.

So, I'm not expecting over half body weight but I'll try my best.

-[Delaney] You got it.

-[Albert] Come on.

-[Delaney] Come on.

Come on.

Come on.

Come on.

-[Delaney,Albert] Come on.

Come on.

Come on.

-[Delaney] Come on.

-[Albert] Almost 50.

-[Delaney] Hey, that was good.

-[Geek Climber] How much was that?

-[Albert] 48, 48.

-[Geek Climber] Oh, 48.

-[Albert] Yeah.

Come on.

Stay strong.

Come on, pull.

Come on.

-[Delaney] Come on.

-[Albert] Come on, come on.

More, more, more, more.

-[Delaney] Come on.

A little more.


-[Geek Climber] 45.

Oh, so left is also a little bit less than...

-[Albert] Yeah, just a little bit.

-[Delaney] Yeah.

-[Geek Climber] Next up is super strong climber, Albert.

I'm excited.

All right, Albert, how much do you weigh?

-[Albert] I'm actually 170 pounds.

-[Geek Climber] 170 pounds.

-[Albert] But I've torn my A2 pulley in my right hand, so it's going to be considerably weaker.

I'll still try but we'll find out.

-[Geek Climber] 106.


-[Albert] Is that even half weight?

-[Geek Climber] So your left should be a lot stronger than your right, right?


-[Delaney] Come on, Albert.

-[Geek Climber] Oh, 124!

-[Albert] Okay, it's not even that much stronger.

-[Geek Climber] It's actually 20 more lbs. That's a lot.

-[Albert] It's doesn't feel that much.

-[Delaney] Come on, Albert.

Come on.

-[Geek Climber] 63.

-[Albert] Yeah, it's considerably weaker.

-[Delaney] Almost.

-[Geek Climber] All right, half body weight, aim for it. 85.

-[Delaney] Come on, Albert.


-[Albert] I can do half.

-[Delaney] Your A2 pulley is not torn.

-[Geek Climber] That's good.

-[Albert] So for some part I can hold at least half my body weight.

-[Geek Climber] Super strong. Super strong.

-[Albert] Alright, Delaney, let's see.

-[Delaney] Alright.

So I've never done something like this before.

-[Geek Climber] How much do you weigh?

-[Delaney] I should be 120ish.

-[Albert] Wait, don't hold your wrist because that helps you.

-[Delaney] 122.

-[Albert] Okay.

-[Geek Climber] Alright.

-[Delaney] So just pull like this?

Am I doing it?

-[Geek Climber] Yeah.

-[Albert] Jeez.

You can hold as much as I can.

Oh my God, and you weigh like 50 pounds less than me.

-[Geek Climber] 95, that's insane.

-[Albert] She weighs 50 pounds less than me and can hold just as much.

-[Geek Climber] That's a difference between the pros and the amateurs, guys.

-[Albert] That's insane.

-[Geek Climber] Okay, and then let's do the left.

-[Delaney] I don't know if I'm doing anything.

-[Geek Climber] 102!


-[Delaney] It feels like I'm not doing anything, so I'm like oh what I am, you know...

-[Albert] So your left arm is a bit stronger than your right arm.

-[Delaney] Yeah.

Well, I'm right handed, but I don't know, it seems like it switches for me,

depending on how I'm training.

-[Albert] Have you heard of the dumb hand theory?

-[Geek Climber] No.

What is that?

-[Albert] The right hand is your dominant hand, so it's...

-[Delaney] So it's like, precise.

-[Albert] Smart.

But your left hand is dumb so it's stronger.

-[Geek Climber] Oh.

-[Delaney] Like I'll clip with my right hand if I'm lead climbing, if I get the option.

-[Geek Climber] I see.

-[Delaney] Also, my right shoulder's torn.

-[Albert] Yeah.

-[Delaney] That might actually affect it.

-[Albert] Yeah, because it all stems from the bottom.

-[Delaney] Yeah.

-[Geek Climber] Alright, 10mm.

Right hand.

-[Albert] Come on. Come on.

-[Geek Climber] Come on.


Oh my God!

That's like 20 lbs more than half bodyweight. That is insane.

-[Albert] More.


Come on.

Come on.

-[Geek Climber] 79.

-[Delaney] I don't think I have anymore.

-[Geek Climber] So, interesting thing about your left hand is actually weaker on this one.

That's actually kind of interesting.

-[Delaney] Yeah.

-[Albert]I think of the bigger one she can engage her shoulder more.

-[Delaney] Yeah.

-[Albert] But this one it's more like your tendon strength so...

-[Geek Climber] I see.

-[Delaney] That makes sense.

-[Albert] Your finger strength starts from like here and goes all the way down.

So it really does affect it all.

-[Geek Climber] It was super eye-opening to see how the super strong amateur climber, Albert, and pro climber,

Delaney, is able to pull on a hangboard.

Super, duper, impressive.

If you are wondering what hangboard is used in the video, it's called the Port-A Board

from Frictitious Climbing.

It not only can be used as a portable hangboard as shown in the video but also can be mounted

on the wall and be used as a traditional hangboard.

It's an incredibly innovative product and I am very excited to share it with you.

For disclosure, I am not sponsored but I will earn a commission for each purchase.

This is a great way to support my channel and also support innovative climbing startups.

-[Albert] And later on we're going to be filming a video with Geek Climber and we're going to teach

him how to train body tension with some new techniques and we're going to make him sweat,

work hard, and you'll be able to find out that video over here.

-[Geek Climber] Over here.

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