Today we're going to talk about replacing the coolant reservoir.
Typically your first indication that there is a problem is when you see a "low coolant level" warning
You likely pop the hood, get out of the car, and check your level.
If you discover that the reservoir is empty it's likely that you have a coolant leak somewhere,
although a common finding is that you check the reservoir only to see that it's at the
The reason for this lies in the sensor that the reservoir uses.
It relies on a float switch to determine if the tank has fluid in it, however, over time
the float loses its buoyancy and is perpetually sunk, no matter the coolant level.
The repair for this is to replace the coolant reservoir, otherwise one day your coolant
will actually be low and you will have no idea and risk overheating.
The coolant reservoir can be purchased for around $60
The tools required will be a 8mm socket w/ some extension,
Slip joint pliers, coolant, and some way to catch leaking coolant
When removing the coolant reservoir there will be 7 points that need to be released.
First the power steering reservoir needs to be slipped off, then the wiper fluid fill
tube should be unclipped, next two bolts needs to be released, then a forward plastic clip
can be slipped off.
Next the upper hose should be released, followed by the lower hose and finally the sensor harness.
For the power steering reservoir, just lift up on it to free it
The wiper fluid tube just unclips from the
side of the coolant reservoir The 8mm bolts are relatively straightforward
as well, just unfasten them with whatever extension is convenient
This is how it should look once the first 3 items are removed, to free the reservoir
further you will need to lift it off of a forward peg.
This is a diagram of the coolant flow through the cooling system, to further free the reservoir,
we need to remove an upper and lower coolant hose. in an ideal world, we could use a fluid
pump like this to remove coolant and prevent spills, however with the baffles inside the
reservoir and the orientation of the hoses there doesn't appear to be a practical way
to do this, so set yourself up some way to catch the wasted coolant under the vehicle.
Next, grab your pliers and remove the upper hose, rocking back and forth to free it from
Next I recommend removing the radiator return hose to give yourself a little more working
Looking in from the passenger side you can see the lower hose outlined here.
Forward to that is the sensor harness which will be removed last.
I had success with approaching the hose clamp from the side like this.
Removing the bottom hose is the most difficult part of the job but is doable.
Remember to catch the leaking coolant Once the bottom hose is removed you have more
space to remove the sensor harness, press in on the underside of the sensor and you
will feel a easy to release clip Here is the new reservoir oriented next to
the old reservoir.
There appears to be a slightly different orientation of the bleed screw but they are otherwise
similar Placement of the new reservoir is the reverse
of the removal.
Of course replacing the lower hose will be the most difficult part of installation.
Don't forget to replace the radiator return hose.
Fill the tank with coolant, leave the cap off, start the car and fill it more as needed
once the thermostat opens up.
You may need to do this a few times until the coolant level becomes steady in the reservoir.
The cold level should be between the marks on the reservoir, the hot level will be about
30mm above the high mark.
That's it for this video, please leave a comment if you have any questions regarding this repair.
I make RRS and LR3 repair videos as issues pop up, so don't forget to subscribe so you
don't miss any simple fixes that could save you $1,000s over taking it to a dealer.
Have a good one.