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Practice English Speaking&Listening with: How to recognize poor vs. good quality in clothes (in 5 points) | Justine Leconte

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Hi everyone! It's Justine. How to recognize

good and bad quality when you're shopping

for clothes? There are some elements that

are easy to check before you purchase

the garment and you don't have to be a

fashion designer to be able to spot at

least the signs of poor quality.

In today's video I'd like to tackle cut and

fit. Colors and dyeing. Prints, appliques and

jacquards. Fabric quality and fiber

quality. And then the sewing. And we're

going to look inside garments so you can

see what's good and what's bad. I will

show you complete examples so that you

can see what's good and what's not good

compared. Fun fact, I own all the

garment's you're going to see.

I actually paid money to get them. It was

before I became a designer, I didn't know

any better.

Most of the garments you're going to see

I would never buy again but now that

they're here, let's use them for science.

Good fit and good cut. There are two

signs of poor quality you should

literally run away from. The first one is

poor fit. Look at this nice and colorful

sweater. One question though:

where is the space for the breasts?

It is a boxy cut. It is not body, okay. But

I'm still missing breathing space at the

bust level here. And the fabric is woven,

not knitted so it's not stretching at

all as I move. This garment would be good

if it was either even more boxy, or if I

had at least bust darts, to give the

fabric the shape of the bust, like on a

woman's shirt. Right now this

construction is just not working. And the

second thing is the cutting. When

manufacturers don't care in which

direction they cut the fabric, you get

side seams that twist. That's something

really everyone notices. It's super

annoying and there's nothing you can do

against it. When you take a roll of

fabric, it has a direction: vertically. All

your pattern pieces must be aligned

vertically with the fabric. But then

typically fast fashion brands will say:

"Oh, look! There's still space to get one

sleeve here!" It's not aligning with the

fabric, but who cares!

So they optimize the fabric consumption

and in the end, you end up with pieces cut in

all fabric directions,

that's why your seams twist more and

move with every wash. Colors and dyeing.

You want a colorful, vibrant piece to

remain vibrant over time, right? But when

you buy a piece too cheap, you will see

the colors fade out very quickly with

washes. Always look at these two

spaghetti strap tops. This one used to be black.

To give you a benchmark, this is black. Hehehee

And this other one used to be pink. Now

it just looks like a white top that has

been washed with a pink dress, which lost

its color. Too cheap is just too cheap

sometimes. Remember my sweater?

The care instructions say: not washable, so

they probably tested it and found out

that the blue or the pink bleeds onto the

cream color when you wash it. So they

said, let's just say: don't wash it at all!

But like how is that supposed to work

for me as a consumer? Same issue with

prints and appliques. This one here was

once a vibrant, acid green print with

rubber on top. It looked pretty cool actually.

Now the rubber effect is almost gone. The

T-shirt just looks stiff and old. And the

green is low-quality too, so now this is

fading out as well. This here is a

knitting mistake in the fabric, which I

didn't see when I bought it. And the

hole just kept growing. So if you're

standing in the shop and you have the

choice between two T-shirts. Same price. One is a solid plain color, the other one

has a print on top. Always go for the

solid color because you can be sure that

on the printed version, they cut costs

somewhere else to compensate for the

margin loss and you'll end up with

thinner fabric or with twisting seams.

You just don't know it yet. Go for the

plain one. One question I often get: Why are jacquards

more expensive than prints?

Because in jacquard, the motif is woven or

knitted into the fabric. The yarns

themselves are of different colors. While

for print, you take a finished fabric and

you just apply a layer of colors on top

of it. It is by definition less durable than jacquard. Fabrics and fibers.

If the fabric is too loosely knitted or woven


you can notice that with your finger. You

take the fabric and you try to push, back

and forththe little loops or the little

weaving. If you can do that with your


not so good! it's too loose! A tight knit

will be more dense, it will be heavier. It

will fall nicely, will fall better. When

you buy clothes online, by the way and

you can't touch the fabric, look at the

way the fabric and the weight falls on

the model on the picture and then you'll

know. Then quickly about the fibers

fabric is made of. You have natural

fibers and synthetic ones. Among the

natural fibers, the classic four are silk,

cotton, linen from flax, and wool. Then come

modal, viscose, tencelthey are also of

natural origin, but they have better

characteristics, they're more modern. Like

they are more breathable. They are lighter

on the skin. They don't shrink when you

wash them, etc. I write the name of the

fibers down below in the description box,

so you guys can look them up if you want to.

And then there are the synthetic

fibers. Stay away from acetates, it's also

made of petrol, it's as breathable as

plastic, hehehe, super-sweaty! And then you have

the other ones, like polyester, acrylic,

rayon, etc. There are quite a few ones.

They are chemically made, but chemical fibers are

much more stable than natural fibres and

that's something people don't always

know. A garment that's completely made in

synthetic fibers, is not always the

nicest feeling on the skin, let's be

honest. But the problem is that 100%

cotton is not a guarantee for high

quality anymore either. Because the

cotton production worldwide, just to take

the example of cotton, has been so fast

fashion optimized, that now you can find

really cheap quality cotton and if you

have a T-shirt in that fabric, it's going

to shrink by one size the first time you

wash it! So sometimes, nowadays, a mix of

natural and synthetic fibers is not a

bad choice at all. In fact I like to work

with mixes, especially for thicker

fabrics. You see that in my collection.

Because you have the stability and the

breathability and the nice

properties of the synthetic evolved fibers,

and the nice feeling of the natural ones.

I like fabric mixes. Sewing, stitching,

threads, etc. Now let's look into garments

for real. First the hem. Here on this

piece, the machine wasn't even set up

correctly. The thread is not lying flat

on the fabric, you see how bulky and 3D

it is. That's not good! A good hem looks

like this. That's correct thread tension.

It's lying flat. On the inside, the

stitching also looks clean and tidy. Even

better, you can cover the seam at the hem

with an extra fabric detail, like here. Or

what I did in my collection, is that I

covered the side seams completely with an

organza. It will stay in place forever

and it will not itch on your skin. Then

let's look inside. On this skirt, they

opened the side seams. That's great, because

it's a thick stiff woven fabric. So this way it's

not too bulky.

It keeps everything flat,

it's easy to iron, that's good. But on the

pocket they didn't do a great job. It's

messy really. On high quality pants the

pocket seams are hidden, like here. All

around, you don't see a seam anymore.

On this skirt here, there is something fancy.

They made the hem stitch line invisible,

but inside, they left the edge completely

visible, instead of folding it inwards a

second time. So they basically spared one

centimetre of fabric. That's cheap! Then

they attach the hem with the invisible

5 millimeter stitch, but it's not tight

enough. 5 millimeter is actually just a

temporary stitching. So what happens when

you move in this skirt, this year the hem

comes undone. And since we were

talking about fabric, the outside here is

wool, polyester, 5% others. What the hell

is others? And the inside lining which

touches your skin in the end, is hundred

percent polyester, not so good. Last one.

This one has a full lining. The darts

of the outside fabrics are also on the inside

fabric, so you can actually move in these

garments, that's excellent! You also have a

bit of extra fabric at the hem, extra

lining fabric, that's for comfort. That's

also good for movement, great! The outside

fabric is polyester, that's cheap, but the

inside, next to your skin, is viscose.

Better this way, than the other way around.

At least you have a nice fabric touching

your skin. So next time you go shopping,

you know what to look at, what to look

for and if you see those signs of poor

quality, then definitely the garments

are not worth your money. They're not

going to last that long. I hope you found

this video useful, helpful. I hope in

answering your question about poor

versus good quality. If it did, give the

video a thumb up! Thank you so much!

Also, thank you for 50,000 subscribers.

It's already more by now.

It's growing so fast, it's incredible!

Let me know in the comments below, if you

have questions about poor versus good

quality, or if you have tips to share on

how you shop clothing. I see you Sunday

and Monday again and here two videos for

you to watch until then! Take care!


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