- Hi, Martin here.
Thank you for joining me for this week's turning video.
I hope you're all well and you've had amazing weeks
and weekends in your workshops.
Now this week's video is more concentrated on finishing
rather than actual turning.
And I had a question from John Horvath on last week's
video regarding some finishing techniques
I've used ages and ages and ages ago.
And he asked for a little bit of clarification on it.
So, that's what I'm going to do.
And it's about why I use an oil and sealer as well.
Now the piece I've got on the lathe is,
oh it's about 11 inches, something like that.
And as you can see, it's already been done.
This was a demo piece from the Maker's Central event
a couple of weeks ago.
And a lady came up to me and asked if she could buy it.
And I said yes, no problem, but it needs to be refinished.
So this project and John's question are,
well they go hand in had quite nicely together.
And so I will just clean this off, recolor it,
and talk you through my finishing process.
And it will be finished with a lacquer for a change.
So I'm going to speed through most of the coloring bit,
and I'll come back to you when I'm ready to start
applying the oil and I'll explain the reasons why,
and what it does.
(jazzy guitar music)
So there's the bowl, cutback, sanded, colored,
and ready for its finishing.
Now John's question was specifically about
my use of oil as
part of my finishing process
with sealer over the top.
And the best way I can explain that is I use a drawing oil,
particularly Hampshire Sheen's Foodsafe Danish Oil.
That's part of the finishing process as an embellishment
rather than a finish on its own.
It's a drawing oil, so it polymerizes and it dries hard.
Well as you'll see in a second, it makes the grain pop
as all oils do.
So over the top of the color, I'm going to put
a single coat, probably a single coat
of the Danish Oil.
So a single coat, and what you'll notice is that
as the oil goes on, it makes the grain of the wood
pop really, really nicely.
But then we need to let it dry
because there's a solvent in it.
The solvent must have full evaporated before we move on
to the next step.
You can do this step just with a saline sealer
if you want to.
The saline sealer will make the grain pop too,
but I prefer to have the grain pop
with an oil before I put the sealer on.
I like to seal it.
This wood is quite thirsty,
as it's sucking that oil in quite deeply.
And then after the first coat,
I'm just going to wipe off any excess.
And with it done, I need to let it dry completely
before I move on to the step of the saline sealer.
It's the morning after the oil went on
and just having a little feel of the piece
and a little bit of a rub around.
I can feel that the oil has gone off.
It has dried, it has cured,
which means I am ready now for my sealer.
And I'm going to use a cellulose-based sealer,
and in particular, Hampshire Sheen's Cellulose Sealer.
And having turned this piece before, I know that it needs
probably three good coats of sealer
before it'll be ready for its final finish.
So I'm putting it on quite quickly
because I want to get it on evenly
without any blotches or smearing.
Now I choose a cellulose sealer for the use
with the intrinsic colors
because it goes off quickly, it dries quickly.
It dries nice and hard.
And it also takes a little bit of the color
off the surface, which for the coloring techniques I use
is exactly what I want because as I keep saying,
I don't want to hide the wood.
I want to show what's in the wood.
So if I take a little bit of the color off the surface,
as you can see, it still stays a really nice,
depth of color and we can see
all of the figure in the wood absolutely beautifully.
Now that's the first coat on.
Now bearing in mind the oil also has a solid component too
or it dries solid, I should need less sealer on this
So probably two coats will do.
So I'm going to leave that for a few minutes to dry off
and then I'll be ready for the second coat.
First coat of this sealer has gone off
and I'll just put on a second one.
And it's really important that you let the sealer dry
before you start applying your final finish,
whether that's a lacquer or wax or whatever.
It doesn't matter, it's got to be completely dry.
Otherwise it'll dissolve the finish.
Which is absolutely what we don't want.
The sealer's dry and I'm looking at the surface of the piece
and I can see that the surface is fairly even.
And just to help clean it up a little bit,
Dealing it with some shavings which should
even off the surface even more.
And now it's been de-nibbed, I'm looking at it again
and I can see that it's not quite as even as I would like.
Just as it comes around if you look at this reflection here.
Just as it comes around, it's not quite so shiny,
which tells me that the surface is still a bit dull.
So that needs a little bit more sealer to it
before it'll be ready to put the lacquer on.
Cause if I put the lacquer on now,
the wood is going to start to absorb it,
and we'll end up with a slightly uneven finish.
And then when that's done, it's worth protecting your tenon
and also protect your chuck as well.
And protect the lathe bed too.
And I'm going to use Hampshire Sheen's
brand new Spray Gloss Lacquer.
Right okay, so I've just rigged up a very rudimentary
out of an old cardboard box.
(metallic beads clinking)
And make sure when using a lacquer,
you've got plenty of insulation.
Or you wear a face shield, or preferably both.
So I've given that a good shake
and then about 20 to 30 centimeters away
so 10 to 12 inches.
I'm going just going to start applying
a light coat
of the lacquer.
Now don't expect the lacquer to go on
like glass straight away.
It's going on to a very smooth surface
so it may well sort of orange peel a little bit.
So that's the first coat.
And also you don't want to put too much on.
If you put too much on it's going to start to run
and then you're going to have all sorts of problems
when it comes to putting it right.
20 minutes later, and we're ready for the second coat.
(metallic beads clinking)
So exactly the same as before.
Got to be careful not to overcook it.
Another 20 minutes passed and so that's two coats on
and I've got a piece of 400 grit abranet,
or sandpaper would do.
I'm just going to really lightly,
just take the top off the lacquer that's on there already.
You don't want to take it all off,
you just want to knock the top off.
Just to start to even the surface out.
Give your can another shake
and go for coat number three.
Leave that for 20 minutes, put another coat on.
Sand it back like I did a second ago,
and then repeat that until you've got six, seven,
or even eight coats of lacquer on.
And then leave it overnight until it's gone
completely hard and then you can come back the next day
and polish it.
Right, it's Tuesday morning.
I've had to leave it for a few days
because I was demonstrating in Cardiff on Saturday
and I was teaching yesterday.
So today's Tuesday and there are now,
I think it's a total of 10 coats on there.
I think I counted that right.
It's either eight or 10, one or the other.
Now as I'm turning this around, you can see
that it is really, really good.
I'm so happy with how it's turned out.
It's almost perfect.
There are a couple of little pits
or a few little imperfections in it,
so it's not 100% smooth.
A couple of extra coats would probably smooth that out
but I don't want to go any further with it.
So I'll need to polish it.
And to polish it, I'm going to use
some Yorkshire Grit original and Yorkshire Grit microfine
to polish it down to a point where it'll look like,
hopefully, it's been dipped in glass,
which will be a superb finish.
Now this whole finishing process does take time
but it is worth it when you get it right, and you spend
the time and the effort and the attention on it.
So I'm going to start with the Yorkshire Grit Original.
So I'm putting enough of the grit on to cover the piece.
And start the lathe fairly slowly.
And I'm just going to work the product into the lacquer
just the same as you would do when using
Yorkshire Grit on a normal piece.
And I'm going to change to a cleaner cloth.
And just start to work the product off the bowl.
Let's just have a look.
Oh yeah, that's come up beautifully already.
I'll spin the lathe up a bit, just to take off the excess.
Now you're going to need to change to a clean piece of towel
fairly regularly when taking the excess off
so you don't start burning the product into the lacquer.
Yeah, that's beginning to look absolutely super.
Now I'm going to switch over to the microfine.
And repeat the process.
(jazzy guitar music)
That's come up absolutely stunning.
The microfine has done an absolutely superb job.
So now there's just one thing left to do
and that's turn off the tenon,
or rather re-turn, what am I saying?
Re-cut the tenon
so I can get it onto
reverse mount it on to the chuck
so I can do the same on the inside.
So I'm going to do that with a spindle gouge.
That looks good to me.
Not very happy.
I've dinked it.
So I'm going to cut it all off and do it again.
So it's about five days after I dropped this piece
as you saw.
And in between lessons and stuff and redoing it
I've been applying another few coats of lacquer.
And it has turned out absolutely gorgeous.
I'm really happy with the depth of the shine.
I'm really pleased with it.
So I've got to get it off the lathe now
and turn the inside of the bowl.
So I've put down an old smock, so if I do happen to drop it
because it is so smooth, it won't get damaged.
So I'll just very carefully.
All right, it's now reversed, and I've got it
on a set of gripper jaws.
And now I've just got to hollow out the inside.
So this bit will be a musical interlude.
So feel free to fast forward a couple of minutes
to the end of this if you don't want to see some
fast forwarded turning.
And see you in a minute and we'll look at the inside.
(jazzy guitar music)
So there's the inside of the bowl, hollowed,
sanded down to 600 this time.
I normally only go down to four,
but I thought this time, what the hell.
And it's had it's sanding sealer on,
which has been de-nibbed.
And I have my Acme, lathe protector on just to protect
the headstock and the chuck from any of the spray.
So, back to the lacquer.
Now the last bit to do, is to turn off the tenon.
So I've got some kitchen towel here
that I'm just going to cover the rim with,
just to protect it against the aluminum.
Make sure it's all good all around.
And then close the jaws.
Now I don't want to do it too tight
and I don't want to do it too loose either.
I'm just going to give it a little push
with my finger through the gap here
just to see if I can move it, which I can't.
So I'm happy with that.
And then tear off some of the excess towel
so it doesn't get in my way
whilst I'm turning off the tenon.
So I'm happy that the bowl is secure in the jaws
and I'm going take the spindle gouge
and very carefully turn off the tenon.
So I've brought the tailstock up
just for a little bit of support.
And then just take my time
teasing off the tenon.
(mellow jazzy music)
So here it is.
I can't tell you how pleased I am to have reached
the end of this somewhat mammoth project.
It wouldn't normally take me quite as long
to finish a project like this,
but with lessons and demonstrations
and making Hampshire Sheen and stuff in between it all,
it has taken an inordinate amount of time.
If I was to be doing this normally with
ten coats of lacquer on the outside
and ten coats of lacquer on the inside,
I would expect it to take three to four days
for the finishing and maybe an hour
for the coloring and all the turning stuff.
Getting on a finish as nice
and as fine as this takes time,
so don't rush your finishing.
It's your finishing that's going to be looked at
for years to come.
So take your time and make sure it is as
absolutely as perfect as you can possibly get it.
So thank you very much indeed for watching
down here are a few videos
I think you maye be interested in.
And if you click on the bowl,
you can subscribe to my channel.
Thanks very much and I'll look forward
to seeing you again soon.
Bye for now.