Situated on the banks of river Budhi Gandhak, it is a historical and industrial city
that is know for its Shahi Litchi
Welcome to Muzaffarpur
Muzaffarpur is my hometown and my birthplace
So today's food tour is no ordinary one but is an emotional food tour
I will take you to those chosen places where I spent my childhood
And whose taste are still there in my memory
Come let's start Muzaffarpur Food Tour with Anubhav Sapra
Jai Baba Garibnath
Om Nama Shivay
Har Har Mahadev
Presently we are at Muzaffarpur's Sunar Patti which is a jewelry street.
Right at the corner there is the Makhan SHah Halwai that is known for its traditional snacks
Come let's taste over here some Kachori, Sabzi, malpua and jalebi
Hoe old is this shop? -It is 80 yrs old.
I remember during my childhood I have come here many times to eat.
All those things that were available then can be seen today as well
Jalebi, Kachori sabzi
What other things are there?
litti, kachori
And samosa. -Samosa is there also khasta kachori
The taste that used to prevail 80 years back is still intact
It is our specialty that no onion,garlic is used in any of our food
Give us a plate of kachori and sabzi
And with it we will try the malpuas for jalebis we have tried often
During morning time you get this very popular breakfast platter
You have these kachoris that are also known as puris
Along with this there is the malpua, aloo channa curry and hot jalebis
Come let's taste it
Very nice
There is a nice flavour of the Panch Phoran
These puris haven't been stuffed
Whole wheat puris
Along with it there is this hot and fresh malpua
Very delicious
For how long you have been coming here?
Since many days
I am coming here since my childhood
Where do you live?
You have come from there to have your breakfast. -Yes
I come daily. -Daily! You like it so much
Yes I like it that's why I come here
Very nice. Their malpua is very tasty
Kachori is also good
Thank you. We enjoyed it.
Here the singhara masala is being prepared
And it has panch phora, ginger, garlic, peanuts, coriander leaves, kasuri meethi
garam masala
It has bay leaves as well. -yes everything
You have added dry red chilies as well
It is full of spices
Here the samosa is called singhara
In English it is called samosa and in Hindi it is called singhara
Namaste! Did you recognize me or not. I didn't used to have specs back then
I didn't used to put spectacles
Yes you have come here earlier
Why won't I recognise you?
I saw you from distance and recognised the blue colour. That same blue colour is prevailing
I am so happy to see you
I am fond of this colour
This is ghugni muri
Puffed rice is mixed with onions and masala
On top of it goes the aloo channa curry
This spoon is made with banana leaves
Earlier there used to be a different bowl
The bowl has changed
Earlier it used to be of sal leaves
After many years
Today as well you have the same taste and the same spiciness.
Don't you add curd any more. -No
See I met Prem Ranjan
Finally I met someone known
You are running your Delhi Food Walks over here
I was just telling that during our school time...
The old man is good in this
I remember that after school we used to park our cycles over here and....won't leave without having ghugni muri
We used to be together in school
Alu Kachalu
Everything is childhood memories
I come and eat here in a month or half
It has been more than 22-23 years
Yes it has been 20-22 years
It has been fifty years
30 and 20 its fifty years
The taste is the same
Once the school got over we would come her for casual meeting
Does the school kids still halt here. -Yes all of them
This too was fixed
So it was fun to mix muri into the gravy of alu kachalu and eat it
This whole set up of yours is the same old one. Nothing has changed
From the colour of the containers to the utensils
Everything is at the same place. Nothing has changed
It was fun to try ghugni muri and alu kachalu
Do tell your mother that Bhunja wala was remembering her. -Sure
This much you definitely convey to her
Thank You
This is another famous sweet from Bihar
It is called Launglata
Can you tell us how is it made?
Khoya is made from milk
Then we make a dough of maida and besan
After the dough is ready, we stuff it with khoya, fold it, we put few raisins, fry it in oil and dip it in sugar syrup
How does this yellow colour comes
We add a little edible colour
Both maida and besan is used. - Yes for crispiness
bring some water
It seems like a peda
The khoya is prepared by us. It is not the ready made khoya
It is not the ready made one
Very nice. It has a sweet flavour of the cardamom
This is the masala of the samosa
Wow sir! It is spicy
Sodium Bicarbonate isn't mixed to this. Right -yes no soda is mixed
See how it puffs up
The shop has been there for 75 years
Your grandfather started it
There is my father. Before that was my grandfather
I remember that we used to have lot's of sev bundi from here
What ever things are there... it might appear old
but many people consume it
The infrastructure is old
Quality is been maintained.Everything is being prepared right in front of your eyes
It is being prepared fresh
We will sell fresh sev
Everything is freshly prepared. -Yes nothing is stale
Sev Bundi is a traditional dish over here
We had tried it at Patna. Sev Bundi and Dahi
Did you try this? -No you haven't served it
We will have it only when you serve it
I find it more enjoyable to have sev bundi and curd. All three of them
Curd is there. Shall I add some?
Yes it will be great if you add a little bit
This sev bundiya too is a traditional snack of Bihar
This sev don't have any spices. It only has salt
It is made with besan
The bundi too is made with besan and it is dipped in sugar syrup
It will tasty much better if you added the malai of the milk to it
I have never tried it but since you have recommended it, I will definitely try it
The sev is very crisp
Very delicious. -It is made of only besan that too pure besan
This is the Launglata in which you can see a clove
It is quite sticky
It is sticking to the teeth
The addition of this clove adds a fragrance to it
Thank you Baidyanath Ji
We loved the sev bundiya and laung lata
Where is Chintu Ji?
He is standing there
Oh here he comes
Chintu ji give us some Dahi Puri
The fly over is ruled by Chintu Ji
One chintu Ji is her, another one is there and there. There are three chintu ji
Someone told me about you that you make dahi puri with raisins and cherries
That is why I am here
This is Chintu ji's special Dahi Puri that has raisins, sev, cherries and onions
Spiced potatoes
wow
You have made a great dish. How long you have been here?
It has been 7 years. -Right here.
Yes here it has been seven years. Before it I was in Kolkata
You have come here from Kolkata
People go to Kolkata from here to sell puchkas. You have come back here.
In Kolkata most of the puchka sellers are from Bihar
We too used to stay there. Now we have shifted here
Very nice. It has unique, interesting flavours
Sweet, savoury and spicy. It has all the flavours
Make us taste one water filled one as well
Although you have written it as Pani puri, but it is called Gupchup
It has many names
Locally it is called gupchup
The main difference between Gupchup and golgappa is that this one is made with whole wheat flour
And in the potato masala
there will be kala channa, raw onions, green chillies
Lots of spices and coriander leaves
The spiced water is always made of tamarind
The spiced water that Chitu Ji has prepared is made with both tamarind and mint
Okay chintu Ji namaste
First goes the cabbage, cauliflower
onions, peas and capsicum. It is first fried
Once it is fried then we will add tomatoes
Then boiled potatoes
Then it is mashed
And some spinach is added
The shop has been around for 8 years and
Due to the self made masala, the quality is very different from other places
Now the special bhaji is being made
let's see how it is being made
This masala is of garlic and chillies
What is this? -Garlic. -More garlic
And due to too much butter...It is a little spicier
This is the special bhaji that has been fried twice
A lot of butter has been added
There are lots of veggies as well. Capsicum, onion, tomato, potato, spinach
Bhaji masala that your mother prepares
Give us a pav s well. -Give here a pav Suman
Loved it. It is delicious
The best thing about the Bhaji is that
the taste of all the veggies that you have added is coming through separately
You were telling that it would be spicy but it is not
No it isn't spicy
It is zesty and it has a strong garlic flavour
Thank you. I haven't eaten a better bhaji than this
Not only in Bihar, but in the whole of India I haven't tasted any bhaji better than this
It is a great task indeed to make it with so many veggies and make is so delicious
Thank you
We have arrived at Muzaffarpur's Suta Patti Market
It is a big retail and wholesale market for clothes
And this cart is right infront of the Sheetala Mandir
It is known for its Kachoris and ghugni
Come let's taste
There is kachri and sattu ki kachori
Along with it there is cauliflower pakoda
Flattened rice, Channa i.e known as Ghugni over here
I will make the bread one, pyaju and chup
Is this the stuffing for the chup -Yes
Tell me what you want to have?
First give us a piece of Kachori
We have taken a kachri that is made with moong dal. At many place sit is made with Kesari dal
Had it been hot it would have tasted better. -It is still very tasty
In this too you have added green chilies and garlic
It is too crisp
It tastes great with flattened rice or puffed rice
In fact it goes much well with rice and dal. -Yes
This is cauliflower pakoda
This you must be making during the cauliflower season
Cauliflower is now available all throughout the year
Very tasty
It has been fried in mustard oil
There is a nice flavour of garlic
come lt's try the choti kachori that has been served with ghugni
This is quite spicy
The ghugni is spicy
And the way it is served is quite different
First the dry ghugni that is there is added and to it the curry is added
Here comes the chup
It is very hot
This is again a very popular street food of Bihar and it is called Aloo chup
People like to have this one too in the evening
It is eaten with puffed rice, flattened rice, ghugni and just by itself as well
The potato stuffing of this aloo chup is very spicy
Into it goes in a lot of garam masala and garlic
It is dipped in the besan and deep fried in mustard oil
Hence it comes out crisp
During the winters peas is added to this
while during the summers, peanuts are added to it
I like it without the chutney. You get to taste the spices
On adding the chutney mostly you get the taste of chutney
I think Aloo chup should be eaten just the way it is
Give us a pyaju
It has onions, besan, green chilies, nigella seeds and carom seeds.
The dish that Hari Ji is making is called Piyaji, Pajuya
It is different from Onion pakoda.
In case of onion Pakodas
Sliced onions are dipped in besan batter and then deep fried
This one isn't made like it
Sliced onions is mixed with dry besan
Then it is kneaded along with nigella seeds, carom seeds and green chilies
Then it is fried in mustard oil
Give us a piece of Pyaji
Pajuya
Crisp and hot
It is having a great aroma of mustard oil
What are you making now? Oh you are taking a break and will resume when customers come
you make lots of item
There are ten items
Many indeed
Pyaju
It looks like a pakoda but it is very different from it
This is more crispier than that because when you use the sliced onions dipped in batter, it releases its moisture
So it remains soft from the inside
This one is crisp
very little spices were used like only Nigella seeds and carom sseds
Still it is so tasty
Not much spices goes into this
Much spices goes into the alu chup
Behind there is the cloth market, Suta patti Market
In one of the lanes there is Sheetla Temple and he stands right in front of it
If you ever come to Muzaffarpur then do visit his stall and taste all these snacks
Very tasty. Thank you hari ji
I was born in Muzaffarpur
I remember whenever there was a family outing with parents
then we always came to Bharat Jalpan
It was fixed that we would have the dosa over here that was made with ghee
And then have the Rasmadhuri
Now there are many restaurants in the city
At one time this was the only restaurant. People used to come out to eat over here
Inside their used to be cabins. -They are still there
When families come for meal they are given that place to sit
So that they have eat peacefully with their family
This dish of theirs is quite popular
Sir tell us what is the difference between Rasmadhuri and Rasmalai
This one is round in shape and that one is flat in shape
Its size is small as well. The milk part of Rasmalai is thinner and that of this sweet is thicker
We can see the chironji in this. You add them too -Yes
Pista is also added
It tastes the same
Very tasty. Chilled rasgulla
Its not rasgulla but you can say so
It is the bid daddy of the rasgulla
Very nice
This is the Balushahi
It has been thoroughly cooked in sugar syrup -Yes
It is cooked in the sugar syrup
That one is made of maida and sooji
Maida chura sooji
This one is pure chena
Though both are called Balushahi. -There is a difference in taste between the two
A huge difference
In this we add cardamom
In the Rasmadhuri we add the Kewra essence
This is too sweet
It is due to the sugar syrup
This is a unique dish that we haven't tried over here
You can call it chena khejur or chota gulab jamun
If it is a little more longer then it will become a langcha
That is quite popular in Bengal
This too has a nice taste of the cardamom
This is the smaller version of the gulab jamun
It is used like additional...
In marriage feasts these are used as first serving
Is this chocolate? -It will taste like a chocolate. Please taste it
These are like the ones that is available in the mountains. -This is the gond pak
It is not available anywhere that easily
It is totally made with ghee
This mithai is called gond pak
at many places it is called chocolate
If you go towards Haridwar or Dehradun, you get it there
people like to have it during winters
very tasty
Singh sir
Sharma Ji. Thank you
This is kada tas and that one is madhur tas
Meaning -Please explain.
This less cooked one is used for religious rituals or to make some food items
This kada one is properly cooked and it is heated and used directly
Okay this one is cooked for a longer time
Yes it is
Brother give us a Kariyaka and Uriyaka
After having the Rasmadhuri at bharat jalpan now we have arrived at Maharaj
It is a famous sweet shop in Muzaffarpur
We have taken two kinds of sweets
This one locally known as sponge or rasgulla
Here it is also known as Ujalka as it is white in colour. Ujjal means white
This one is called gulab jamum or kariyaka as it is black in colour
In fact it is of dark brown colour
they have been served together
This sweet is called sponge because it is soft and spongy
It nicely absorbs the sugar syrup
The characteristic of a good rasgulla is that if after squeezing out the sugar syrup, it goes back to its original shape
It is made with pure chena and is a big sized rasgulla
Very tasty. Pure taste
Pure chena based sweet
Its completely grainy
It has a nice flavour of cardamom
Nastha kariya means have sweets
Without the sweets the snacking is incomplete
After dinner too one should have sweets
Give us a Raskadam and meethi ladoo
Uncle you like Kaju Burfi quite a lot -Yes
I have already eaten Kariyaka and Ujalka
Now we have taken raskadam and meethi ladoo
Their sweets is of number one quality
For how long you have been coming here to have the sweets -For 25 years
And it is quite crunchy too
Jamun sherbat
After having so much sweets at Bharat jalpan and Maharaj
We finally tried the jamun sharbat
It is good for digestion
I remember that this shop ...someone used to sit on a raised platform outside this shop
Father expired in 2015
then I have remodeled the shop
Yes that is why it couldn't be recognised. when I came during my childhood days.
You father used to serve all sitting over a raised platform
The soda used to be made over there
The shop is the same only the person has changed and the shop has changed
You take little of this as per your taste
You can have it
The lime makes the paan taste better
It forms more saliva
The bitterness of the pan will change to sweetness
It is an amazing paan. Totally fragrant
What is your good name? -It is Rishu Akash
How old is the shop
This shop is around...father had arrived i seventies
From where? -Rajasthan
Okay you are from Rajasthan. Maharaj ji is also from Rajasthan
Bharat Jalpan is from Rajasthan
Bhagwan Bhojanalay is also from Rajasthan
So almost everyone who is running a sweet shop or restaurant are from Rajasthan
Rajasthani people maintains quality
There is no adulteration thing neither in Maharaja
There is purity
Not even at sundar maharaj we have any issue of adulteration
We have opened our hotel over here. It is the Sunder Maharaj Bhojanalay
There you get pure vegetarian food
Tell us something about the dalmoth
That dalmoth too is a popular snack of Bihar
This is the dal
And this is the moth
In Rajasthan this dal and moth are mixed and eaten together.
This is the moong
This is the sev
What is this? -This is masoor
Masoor and peanuts
And you combine then all to make the mixture
It is spicy
In Bihar people eat spicy stuff
Into the khoya you added one forth proportion of sugar
that means into one kg khoya goes 200 gm of sugar
After mixing this what else would be added
We will add green cardamom and finally roll it with some large cardamom
It will get cooled under the fan
On cooling it will thicken further
When it becomes a little more stiffer then you will roll it along with some cardamom powder
In the whole of India the shape of the pedas is usually flat
Here it is totally different. Oh how amazing.
It is a fresh peda made with pure khoya
To which one fourth proportion of sugar was added
Then green cardamom and finally large cardamom
Very delicious
I haven't eaten a better peda than this
Mathura is known for pedas
Where Lord Krishna was born
But when you eat the pedas over there
You will feel the granulated sugar in your mouth
That thing is not there in this peda
It seems that we are having pure khoya
And there is the taste of both the cardamoms-Green and large one
Very nice
Thank you. It was enriching
How many years have you been in this Chaat business
We are the ones who bought the chaat to Muzaffarpur
We are from Dholpur in Rajasthan
In Muzaffarpur there wasn't any chaat business
My grandfather began to sell chaat for 60 paisa a plate in front of New Delhi chaat counter.
His is popular throughout North Bihar
Is the shop still there
No there was some space related issue after the construction of the flyover
The workers didn't wanted to continue. They went off to Hyderabad and set up stalls over there
I remember that earlier there used to be two chaat places. Delhi one and Agra one
Agra chaat is still there at that place
Yes it is there
The owner too has passed away. Now the nephew runs it but the quality has declined
When Mohan jI were there the quality was maintained
Many people from Rajasthan have been selling these fares
Maharaj ones are from Rajasthan, Sunderlal Pede wala are from Rajasthan
You too are from Rajasthan
There are the old residents over here
This one has kasuri meethi and it has been binded with arrowroot and refine and in the inside it is stuffed too
He has spent nearly 16 years in this line
He makes different types of chaat
there is the samosa chaat which he said is called pet bharua chaat
which means if you have a plate of samosa chaat, your tummy will be full
There is kachori, dahi vada and aloo tikki
we have ordered and aloo tikki chaat
They have special gulab jamun as well
The aloo tikki chaat in Bihar is preferred with chole or ghugni
People like it that way
Very nice. It has all the tastes -Yes
Sour, sweet, savoury it has all the flavours -yes
It was great meeting you
I feel so happy seeing and meeting you
The childhood memories came in flash back
It is the same place. The hand pump is right there at front
During the childhood days during evening
I always came here to have ghugni chura
We also had the littis dunked in ghugni
Rest of the dishes are the same. Kachri, Pyaju, Beguni, Bread
I am eating for the sake of childhood memories
My childhood has passed by at this place only
Every evening I would come here passing through the lanes...
we used to live right here at and I used to come here walking
I was this small
And would eat 10 pieces of kachris for 1 rupee
How many years have passed in this business
43 years
This is the Beguni
It is fluffy
It is made with brinjal slices dipped in besan
I always maintain that food is a memory
It results in bonding
I can't express what all memories are crossing my mind
Coming here as a kid and asking for my order.
There used to be a huge crowd over here.
At times we would go back and come again
Then I also bought chups for myself and even packed it for the family
Yes you used to take parcels
We used to carry our own tiffins
to get things packed
Very nice. The taste is the same
The masala is the same
I have never changed the oil as everything depends on the oil
If the oil is not up to the mark then the taste is compromised
Very nice
I can't express in words how happy I am feeling
Thank you Bindeshwar ji
This is the Silao ka khaja that we had tried in silao enroute gaya
This is the Topi Khaja that is shaped like a cap
It is being made fresh over here
This is called gaja
these are the maida blocks that are deep fried and dipped in sugar syrup
This one is crisp and firm
It is firm and crisp
In Bihar there are so many varieties of khaja
It is popular in Bihar
It is a integral part of our culture
Without this tradition is incomplete
However grand be your marriage event
If this is not sent then it is incomplete
You have to send this
Khaja is an inevitable part of the tradition of the edible things that are exchanged between the bride and the grooms family
Ladoo and khaja will surely be sent to the respective families
Ladoos, Khaja, Firkiya
Dry buniya, Shakarpala
all these things are sent. -These are the traditional sweets
With this the journey of Anubhav childhood memories comes to an end
We will meet again at a new city with renewed enthusiasm
Till then keep walking and keep exploring