Practice English Speaking&Listening with: Sewing - Making Trousers - Sewing Tutorial - Sewing Trousers

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This is the first

of my ten minute tutorials

In ten minutes I shall show you

how to make up my latest pattern

The wide legged, double pleat trousers

This guide applies to making trousers in general

If you have always thought that

trousers are difficult to make

this movie is for you

Just visit my Pattern Room

to download this pattern

and print it

Tape it together

edge to edge

no overlap

no tricky markings to line up

and cut out each piece

Im using lightweight black denim

Its washable so pre-wash it

and zigzag the raw edges

so that it doesnt fray

If you are taller or shorter than average

youll need to adjust

the waist to hip measurement

Cut along the guide line and open out

or overlap

Keep the vertical grid lines inline

and correct any distortion

at the seam lines

Do the same to all the pieces that will be at hip level

So thats pockets as well

and also the front lining panel

Again, correcting the seam lines where necessary

This is the most important alteration you are likely to make

It affects the depth to the crotch

and makes sure that the widest part of the trousers

comes where you are widest

All other adjustments

can be made at a later stage

You could substitute the front lining panel

for a full lining

Use a washable lining

if your garment is to be washed

I have cut out my fabric

leaving ⅝” seem allowance all round

and I have transferred the markings

For a fuller tutorial on Dressmaking Basics

Watch myMake Your Own Clothes Series

andMake a Dress Seriesof videos

The classic pocket styling

makes these trousers a must

for any student of dressmaking

The under pocket completes the trouser front

The top pocket forms a facing

for the pocket opening

As the pocket opening is cut on the diagonal

or the bias it will stretch

which we dont want

We will stitch a stay along the seam line

This can be narrow cotton tape

or woven seam binding

which will not stretch

Dont use bias binding

as this will stretch

Baste the tape to the pocket along the seam line

The first stage to attaching pockets

is to join the top pocket

to the trouser front

right sides together

along the pocket opening

The seam is stitched

incorporating the stay tape

Turn the pocket to the inside

and press ready for top stitching

I set my heart on acid yellow for these black jeans

but remembered in time

that my next project would be

to use this glorious pure silk floral

for a classic shirt

That would look great with these trousers

So Im going for the golden yellow instead

Always practice your top stitching

I have lengthened the stitch

and find I need to tighten

the top tension considerably

to avoid these loops appearing on the wrong side

Thats much better

A perfect stitch

With the pocket opening nicely top stitched

we now need to attach the under pocket

With right sides together

It is a doddle to pin and stitch it

to the top pocket

Stitch from edge to edge

keeping the pocket free from the trouser front

When the side seams

and waistband are complete

the pocket will be firmly stitched in place

In the meantime, pin the pockets

to keep the garment in shape

as we deal with the front pleats

Pleat fronted trousers

are going to be big news

and waists are in

Trouser style is returning

to a more flattering classic look

Even though I am working with denim

these trousers speak sophistication

They are easy to wear and comfortable

and look great with a shirt tucked in

or sweater loose to the hips

Getting back to our pleats

There is no mystery here

Just fold and match the markings

Pin securely

Then run two rows of hand

or machine basting

across the trouser front

to keep everything in place

for the next stage

We are ready to get our trouser pieces together

I have decided on a zip

in the back seam

rather than a fly front

which is a little advanced

Very 60s - Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly

Slacks then, would have a back zip

and they didnt have the technology

of the invisible zip in those days

So joining the two fronts

pin, stitch, press to one side

and top stitch

Clip the curve before pressing

So that the seam lies flat

A lovely flattering finish

Now for the front lining

which is actually a stay

The darts are stitched

and the bottom edge is finished

with either a single fold hem

or overlocking

keeping bulk to a minimum

The lining provides support for the figure

allowing the pleats to hang

as they should

You could extend this piece

to make a full lining

using a duplicate of

the back piece

I love to fully line my trousers

even jeans

Absolute luxury

This lining piece is hand tacked in place

The front is now finished

and preparing the back is simple

Insert the invisible zip

Watch my video

How to Make Your Own Clothes

and then stitch the darts

pressing them towards the centre

We are now on the home stretch

You have a choice

Where would you like to see the top stitching?

American jeans, traditionally

have it on the inside leg seam

to strengthen the seam

when you are riding your horse!

Jeans for looks often have it

on the outside seam

but this can cause problems

if you have a less than

powerful sewing machine

The pockets create too many layers

So I am sticking with tradition

and maybe Ill whack in some

traditional rivets

to reinforce the pockets

and have the top stitching

on the inside leg seam

Carefully match the centre seam and the notches

With this pattern the seams

should be the same length

But other styles may have a certain amount of easing

The seam is stitched from ankle to ankle

pressed towards the back

The curve at the crotch is clipped

and the whole length is

top stitched in one go

Zigzag or overlock to neaten

before top stitching if you like

Turn inside out

and with right sides together

match, pin and stitch

the outside leg seams

If you have any doubts about fit

just baste and try on

before stitching

Press the seam to the rear

neatening with a zigzag

or overlocking if you wish

So thats both legs stitched

so we now have a pair of trousers

One minute to go

so a very quick guide

to attaching the waistband

and the hem

Im using this convenient waistband interfacing

which is iron on

and incorporates stiffening

Cut it to the length of your waistband

plus seam allowance

Transfer markings

for centres and side seams

Use the interfacing as a pattern

and cut out your fabric

and iron on

Attach the waistband

right sides together

matching markings to seams

The extension should be on the right side

so it is overlapped by the left side

which is flush with the centre back

Stitch the ends

Mitre the corners

and trim excess bulk

Turn the waistband through

and tack the underside

in place over the seam

Top stitch around the waistband

from the right side

Remove tacks and basting

Check hem length

Blind hem

Press

Your done

Enjoy!

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