Practice English Speaking&Listening with: colors in permanent make up

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Hello, i would like to welcome everybody my name is Anna Pawlovska and i will do presentation for you today with very interesting theme

theme about colors in permanent make up is very difficult

its about color oxidation, basic colors atc...

i would like to explain you today in the easiest way so you could understand

how not to do basic misstakes in permanent(semipermanent) make up

very often we can see problems as eyebrows come out in color orange, losos( salmon), pinkish

or lips are bruised and we dont know what to do about it

same as work with needle need to be right depth

i have heared no long ago there is no difference between permanent make up and tattoo

i have done course for tattoo just for interest and think

there is very big difference like (device, depth of needle)

for example ladies writing on internet forum there is no possibility that make up will not stay in skin

if it did not stay its crap linergist..its all about how deep she injecting needle with pigment and she has to do it very deep for pigment to stay!

"its totally not true" for person with no knowladge( depth) mean to push needle very hard and deep

but for technician...we all know we can not pigment in dermis skin

due to all this there are coming themes like bruised lips,

spider veins, pigment migration on eye

or uneven eyeliners that been done with needle to deep and scratched (broke) epidermis so badly that is becoming problem

there is minimum of complications if natural lip color is light

if we gonna speak about vesage now for second

who has done visage course learned

that cool color of lipstick gonna be the best for person with cool skin tone

lipstick does not effect anything because we putting it on our lips but

but in pmu we work with needle and pigmenting in epidermis

where pigment is oxidizing

there starting a problem in pmu if we put cool color on cool lips

there are some tricks?rules i want to tell you

first we have to put right corector on lips if we want to use cool pigment on cool lips( because thats what we think gonna be the best by visage)

every company has such corectors but it also depends on witch brand you work with

the most dangerous pigment by me is fuchsia and burgbundy

every pigment witch having purple particles in can cause bruising effect ( look)

same effect you will get with worm color if you use pink or red on cool lips

and pigment been implanted too deeply, it will couse bruises too

for this reason,depth of pigmentation is very important

we can not push on needle too hard to have bleeding thats mean deep pigmentation , no long ago i had case:ladie came to me

with black looking lips

on picture the lips looked color fuchsia but without flash they been black!

client went for this treatment over 4 times again and again linergist used same pigment each time

of course she could not help this lady because over 4 times

used same color for each time probably fuchsia mixed with burgbundy

on totaly cool lips she used cool colors, plus color implanted too deeply migrated on her lips

there was no chance to help this client in any way

and there was just one prion LASER

if we dont pigment to deeply we are able to save situation with corectors

but if we needling too deep like tatto just laser is option for such person

we can work with laser on lips, eyebrows but with eyes laser isnt able to help

like color migrated in capillaries, there is no such option as laser

nobody will take such responsibility and work with laser by eye

still about lips

we can use orange corector on bruised lips

or there are corectors...i can not really say names and brands in here

but there are some corectors we can use on bruised lips to reduce bruised color

after we can put right pigment on

but it can not be fuchsia or burgbundy again

we can mix a bit

in such pigments we can put drop of camuflage ( skin color)

but never to mix with white pigment, because white by its structure never going to fade our of skin

it comes from chemystryknowledge atc...

if we still going to speak about lips very inportant is herpes(cold sore)

here you know by your experience people whos having it very often missing their lip color

there is difference between pigmenting lips on mucous membrane and pigmentation over natural lip line on epidermis

people that want to enlarge lips or of course so much lip red color disasapeared due to herpes

we have to advice such person esthetic surgery to enlarge them,because we can enlarge by pigmentation but not by injecting filler and do them fuller or plumped

ladies coming very often with such problem, they want lips fuller or plumped by PMU

and very often they want to enlarge about 3 mm

i could see many results when there is different color on epidermis over natural lip line and different color inside of lips lighter

pigment on lips(mucous membrane) always going to setle different than pigment we needled on epidermis above lips

its for sure

if we gonna speak about eyebrows now

very often you see such clients who want to have black eyebrows

they coming to salong and want them absolutely black or as much dark its possible

some technicians using black for this procedures, that should by used only for eyeliners

if we use such pigment on eyebrows

ending effect going to be purple or blue

if you want to save such client and she did not have done first procedure by you

we can fix such eyebrows by using ..(on shape even not symetrical)

but at the moment we are not interesting in shape or symetry but problem is color example blue

we have to use totaly orange pigment...there are orange pligments but also corectors

so you putting such orange corector on black eyebrows that turned blue

you pigmentting well to cover shape only

when you gonna use this corector you will see

how color is changing because of the oxidacion

or you gonna have client with brows of color losos, orange, pink atc...you always using olive corector on

to warm color example with all brownish pigments not to turn them redish, pink, orange, losos

we have to put one drop of olive pigment "its corector"

olive having effect to cool color down

opossite to get warm tone of pigment corectors are always yelow

one drop of yelow will make sure pigment tome will stay warm

with yelow we getting rid off fading in color redish ,pink, losos in year time or longer

because every pigment is make from some base

black is on base blue

in time pigment going to fade in natural way and losing some pigment particles...black is gonna fade to bluish

brown is on bases of red...

after when fades goes orange, redish, and pinkish losos

so we have to know

it doesnt matter which brown if hazelnut or darkest brown

always gonna have red in it

for this reasons

we need to put drop of olive pigment or yelow in its principle

many technicians always asking what they doing wrong because their brows coming out losos or pinkish

they dont do anything wrong just dont use and put right corector in pigments

i dont know any pigments that are secured( save) in such way

maybe they start to produce such pigments because i have heared there is few producers who starting to put corectors in their pigments

but just few its rare

personaly when i have learned PMU i done brows for my mum, typical light blond and i would never thought its going to fade to losos color

so really every time, its like rule i can not even emagine

not to put drop of olive or yelow in pigment for eyebrows

corector is our safety

of course there always going to be ladies with losos eyebrows, because we cant measure and we plut not enough corector in

but usualy it is for 2-3 drops of eyebrow pigment

we have to put one big drop of olive or yelow that will make sure we stay in warm tone, when wanted example redish

there are clients who want chocolate eyerows, are ginger redish with worm skin tone and

for them yelow absolutely needed

our skin is like filter for this reason when we see pigment its never gonna look the same in the skin

pigment gonna oxidize in skin and the best time to see true color how its gonna look like is 4th week

first week epidermis exfoliate

2nd week epidermis is healing

3rd week its week when color gonna dissapear in some places and come out again

and 4th week is stabilisation, pigment settled down and the way we see it its the way its gonna look like

thats why we cant retouch earlier than in 4 weeks time specialy with lips and brows

epidermis is able to regenerate by itself in two weeks time naturaly

if ladie come back in two weeks time and we will work on such soft new skin again (lips)

when we start to needle area again it will take the first pigment out of the skin because pigment has not stabilisated yet

thats why its very important that epidermis going to heal first so we work on save skin

same with eyebrows

with eyes we can do retouch in two weeks

but lips, eyebrows minimum 4 weeks no earlier

there are pigments that are very strong+bright and some clients crying its too intensive

but after exfoliation possibility is there is none left or is very delicate

if there is none left and pigment was originaly very dark

we should think about that we didnt pigmented deep enough

in general needle should be out about 2 mm, no more than that

and we work very slowly

i always say on every training we should work slow if you gonna work to quickly we can see this type of work on film very often

but its just film,..and in reality effect gonna look totaly different

with quick work needle just gonna bounce on the skin with pigment and pigment will not be inplanted

absolutely inverted effect

so work and needle speed is also very inportant

another theme about eyebrows is skin corector

can be used when we messed up but i dont talk here about cm but just mm

like a bit longer brow or thicker, we can always use skin corector in such cases

numbers of pigment depends on skin type

and you start to work on area which you want to neutralise in mm VERY SOFTLY9GENTLY)

with zig zag technique

you do not pigment in straight line but zig zag

example

we got eyes

and i am talking about most symetrical eyes now, everything is right and we want to

draw just symetrical eyebrow above them

with eyes placed too close together we will have to draw brows more to the sides of course

but if everything is ok our rule of visage is

to mark starting points in inner corner of the eyes

so eyebrow shuld start above inner corner of eye

or we can move them a bit in to make them look opticaly nicer

than we can start to think about our brow shape

to make it easier its the best to draw sketch on client

no permanent just sketch with pencil

when you look at this lines we will put pencil straight right up and mark the beginings of our brows

after we have to think about thicknes

some clients like thin some of them thick

so if we do natural hair grow of our client one is higher

one is slightly lower

we just going to choose which one we like more and fit the other to it

we can say its here, so i draw line here...

and here because i want beginings and thicknes to be identical

and got first squares where i can start my brows

now just we have to think if our client want beginings of brow to look like

...she want straight, there are some who want it

ladies who want them slantwise(sideling)

or round

or the most natural shape

but less i know where to start already

if i start like this or like that

or like this

the most important and hardest is to draw shape but its just practice practice

big misstake is to do contour of eyebrows and after filling(shading)

because by my experience ladies always coming with conture on their forhead and just slightly visible fills or there is no color inside at all in few mths time

so what we going to do is very quick shadow, no ideal lines but taking pencil and working like this

hmm maybe i draw it here so you could see it better

i am able to see shape and can refine later

its not hairstroke technique but for blocked brows it works well

after i just start with needle and the way i want but on good sketvh and no on something like this

if we got client who want sharp edge we can jusr refine later

in here...i know i have to do this

but i got very easy and quick way to work now

i can work in circles to have brow shaded or to pigment idealy hairstrokes one long one shorter

sketch is enough i dont have to draw over one hr

than i can easily start to sketch other and make them symetricaly same

just have to look if i got highest points in same level

than we can start work quickly because our numbing of course

instead to draw conture.. start to pigment it than shade and fill

maybe there are technicians who prefere to work other way

i dont want to change your system but think its much easier

colors for brows we got gray to brown to darkest pigments witch are not saved

and as i said in every color we have to add right corector

every color black is on base blue so with fading we go to blue and grey sometimes

these are save pigments that fading this way

of course we can see black eyeliner that stay on for few years

but we can not say its behaving of save pigments

organic colors & nonorganic

i am sure you know about it or read already

save pigments alwaysgoing to fade over base colors

so something for something

generaly if we done such mistake or somebody coming to us with such think

i always saying to my clients you never gonna have same effect as we would do it for first time

make up we fixing after somebody or our foult its not same as start with clear page

its page tat is done already and drawed

but effect not gonna be ideal as treatment we doing for first time

if you gonna have client with purple lips

and somebody pigmented too deep you can fix the problem

but just for year or year and half

something that been pigmented before always gonna come out

we can reduce or fix it just for short period of time

but never perfectly

if there is person who have natural lip color brownish red

we have to use corector first to create basis so we could put pigment on

because all natural lip red color reacting different with pigment

we have to imagine for ourselfs what results we want to create(get) two friends coming to salon and want same lip pigment

we never get same color effect in the end for both clients, each ladie gonna have different ending color

now you got client with one brow here , other here...there is not symetry

i met few like that you could draw other brow under, how unsymetrical they were and she could not see it

we can not neutralize all brows with skin corector but

we can take a bit of this part down here

but we talking about mm just a bit

this one camuflage from top

and make it lower

again, they never going to be ideal but we can do our best to help

we will not work with camuflage just on the part where brow is

but we with circules we cover area and after using zig zag to go over a bit (around)

we will create for like...mouse

this technique not going to cover just efected area

but also around..

you working to create this type of fog, (shading)

in begining its going to be color pinkish white

you have to wait for it to efoliate than do it again

how many times you reapeating procedure depends on how deep color was pigmented earlier

if too deep there must be few visits and treatments

in camuflage we can retouch in 3 weeks time

but just with camuflage no with normal pigment

this part you doing in same way...corector in circles and zig zag endingss tocover more than just effected area

waiting 3 weeks than we can meet again to use color pigment on brows

can be sytuation our old make up is still visible so we have to redo it with camo again

other example: if you want to lift tail of eyebrows because had been done too low you will work in similar way

you starting zig zag movements going 0,5mm over area

after it exfoliate its not gonna be line

but it will exfoliate to smooth plastic look

its very important

lips

i met few clients that wanted enlarge opticly

plus make this area more straight

maybe you met such people too, they think they going to have opticaly nice enlarge lips

we working just in mm to make lips symetrical

but we never pigment above the lip nearly half of cm

color never gonna have same shade on eidermis as on lips

there going to be two colors we can have lighter lips and darker above them

or color does not connect with lip line

so we going to have lips different color than second conture

like fuzzy(blotchy) lipstick

so if you got such problem and ladie want to fix her faded lips with second line

just if pigment was not injected too deep we can fix it

by camuflage

corector in skin color and

we start to work on conture by zig zag but need to go over the line about 1mm

we waiting for it to neutralize

thank we can use color pigment of course in right place now

we will not do same misstake twice

sorry

when we taning sadly corectors are visible...this misstakes are so important that we cant do them

camo doesnt tan is always visible on skin, same as with eye,

some clients has thick eyeliner

two long or both unsymetrical ones and we want to treat it

corector always going to be more visible when we tan

when pigment migrated in eye area girls are asking if they can use corector

you can just few mm but you can not work on big areas

because our corector going to fade in time but migrated pigment will stay in our organism

so all proces will come back after 1 year time and needs to be repeated

we have to inform such client that something that been done already in past we can fix ust for short period of time

just minimum of pigment will fade its like tattoo it will get lighter in time but will stay forever

ladies are describing it like having bruise

after two weeks time every pigment should be fine but having shadow like over it

thats the pigment that been implanted too deeply

or eyeliner been done too agresively

sometimes technicians work on twitch technique ( using all arm)i recomend 1.pigmentation has be done in line

you have to rest your arm and work just with your wrist

no like this in the air, one second we have needle in skin other in the air and pigment with needle bounce back

specialy on the lips because its mucosa, because our effect going to be STITCHES LOOK

we can see this type of work very often

conture is missing pigment like this

its bad technique, instead to work properly

and slow ...we going back and forwoard instead some work is like this, Quick work

quick work will have bounce effect on skin when we working with needle

its same with eye

next you have client that want decorative eyeliner

there are some

we can not satisfied our client every time

very important are mimic wrinkles

younger got them less than older right?!

when she smile atc... or the skin over her eye is loose sometimes in many ways

with few people beginings are nice and after we got something like this

its getting looser( hanging) and client want decorative ectreme eyeliner and best always intensive

permanent make up doesnt replace night make up

some ladies keep saying they can not see the eyeliner and i look of course its there

but if she put powder over it + eyeshadow

we wont be able to see it

we have PMU because we dont want to put make up on every morning, we want look nice on beach in swiming pool

we will not see lips eather if we put powder or foundation over them

back to eye if client got problem with loose skin we can do lash enhancement

its for eyes to be brighter

but we cant do decorative eyeliner , we cant just lift loose skin and pigment there ... we work on epidermis but no on skin

or every wrinkle going to take pigment with it as they getting older and deeper

its like material isnt it?!

iif we do it in lashes eye going to be very nice but if we

want to work here???? we basicly cant lift it and do eyeliner

we are not able to

but with everyday make up she is able to draw this type of line because its on the skin but with liner we have to work in every crease (FOLD)

so if client got any type of wrinkles in this area

we work only to the first wrinkle

when we can not do decorative eyeliner we can offer just minimum extend lift

but in mm neverdo this type of eyes with liner down because clients eyes gonna look very sad

best look is

to the last eyelash but never extend the way down

same with lower eyeliner

its best to end eyeliner earlier and not to connect them and do close eye look

we dont connect eyeliners ( just in special circumstances)

i saw such eyeliner that was connected

after year client decided she doesnt look good any more ...you can fix it with white pigment

no skin corector just white pigment

best with single needle

you will seperate the eyeliner gently

to open it

this effect going to be for very long period of time

because of chemical ingredience of white

its going to fade for very long time in some cases never

when we going to work on this area we have to work very gently, lightly ..white is hardly visible and best time we will be able to see it is in 2 weeks time

its same with tattoo, white is hardly visible in begining

just visible after 2 weeks when exfoliates

you work so many treatments to be able to see it by the eye its going to ve more plinkish thank white anyway

dont be worried its totaly normal and natural

sometimes client coming earlier and start to panic.but we realy going to be able to see it in min. 2 weeks time

we can not retouch earlien than 2 weeks time

sometimes we using white under eyebrows to highlith the area

its same you do not work in line but shadow

with zig zag

lips same we can hight light them but it will not be so much visible in begining so dont over do it

dont work too deep 2mm is max.

and again we dont do perfect line as we need to do on lip liner but we doing shadow with zig zag

shadow or fog like you want to hogh light with powder

we cant get rid off wrincles so here become problem

if client got smoker wrinkles

we trying as less is possible to go over natural red lip

our client want to enlarge lips

but we cant cut off those wrinkles so when we working lips are getting bigger because its swolen and wrincles smoothing

at this point pigment going to be brighter stronger in weincle area

when we fold something color opticaly cumulate

cumulate in wrincle so look like darker stain

thats why we dont do such think and dont enlarge lips that are wrinkled

we dont go in wrincles or foldings, bendings with liner

some people are more sensitive than others and we can see a bit of bleeding

but if bleeding is intensive its mean something is not right

we using anesthetics to shrink capillaries but sometimes when it bleeds it doesnt always mean anestheric doesnt work but we needling to deep and agresivly

at this point we got problem

client sometimes doesnt tell us she using medicine and blood is thiner

its very important too

or herbs having same reaction to blood sometimes we just touch the skin and can see red dot straight away

i had such client who knew she had thin blood she went to doctor and been given perscription to have procedure done safely

tail of brow will always stay darker or we dont have beginings at all and tail a bit

and effect never going to be good beginings going to exfoliate everytime

and tail will stay specialy with older person because epidermis on older skin

will absorbe pigment quicker

some ladies doesnt want even corection because when we take lightest pigment it can oxidize very soon

lips are the same

ecery color will be more intensive than on young person

we can do lipliner and shading in one procedure when we want to make color lighter on lips

but if we want to camuflage lip that been enrarged

and we have wobly pigmentation on lips too

we will have to split treatments to few

sometimes client got natural lip conture after pigment and other color

thats the biggest issue in PMU

we never know how deep was first pigmentation by other technician so any color that been pigmented before and we fic it

it will come out in period of time and be visible anyway

there are pigments that are specialy for work to make lip pigment lighter after treatment

for example you will do very intensive color on lips

you dont have experience and this can happend right?!

with next visit you can fix it with no other pigment but corector

in skin color you using skin color on whole lips

instead of other color..you dont mic skin with color together in pot

but just with skin corector you working on lips to create base

after that you can use lighter pigment over it

this will couse powdered effect on lips with new color

sometimes client want to have powdered pink effect on lips but i have never saw such pigment yet

but just heared there is pigment already that after treatment making lips lighter with no need of skin color

but i just heared never seen and we can fix dark lips just with corector

to create fog just with gentle work

we using lightest skin color to make lips lighter after example 5 overgoings we can go to lighter pigment

but again as i said earlier we can not put cool color on cool lips

here is the no.1 rule

cool lips - warm pigment

same with brows lady that comes with blond hair

with capillaries on her fase

skin texture is pink

you never going to choose typical brown warm pigment

we will always go to cooler site

its oposite of visage

in visage you learning warm skin is for warm colors

for cool are cool colors

but here with PMu its different we use warm to cool skin because pigment oxidize in organism

cool lips warm color (pigment)

even when we used corector before on lips to overcome bruise effect we always trying to choose warmer pigments

its important...dont put on cool lips pure brown pigment..

because brown color on cool lips going to look very sad

option for this is to put drop of red or pink in pigment

if client reall want brown color we using less of pink/red to mic

the brown will stay brown but going to have fresher look

browns colors always look sad on lips...:-(

but everybody works on different pigments so you have to choose from your color chart

and producer...we also working on different machines

so some of us has to regulate needle by ourselfs...its always 2mm max.

end in the end of our work even minimum of needle specialy on lips

you have to pigment very softly to create fog or mouse effect on lips

lips can not be bleeding also dont wipe pigment of lip but more pushing color in with cotton pad

we cant wipe pigment off every time but delicately tap pigment in

there going to be better resolts! from start you working deeper and quicker but in the end just slow and gently

you will get better effect for sure

epidermis going to be less irritatied too

also we can not use brow brown for lilps, colors for lips are for lips only

and pligment for brows only for brows

i know few cases when ladie mixed pigments..every pigment is there for different purpose

example base of pigment, every pigment got different condistency

and brow pigment is got base red with orange

but lip pigment is behaving and fading totaly different

some client want, i met lady that wanted grey lip conture

or blue lips

she saw it somewhere abroad and of course it was wrong PMU

but she liked it

there is no pigment producer anuwhere with blue or grey lip pigment!

just because client want strange color on lips we cant use pigments that are for eyes or lips..we never know how pigment going to ocidize in lips

it can oxisize green purple or blue

so in the end she could have green conture

example pigment for brows you used on lips had base olice!!!

effect going to be colorfull lips

hylauronic acid and other fillers absorbing water, pigments are fluent

we never get ideal effect with lips when filler is in , client will not be 100$ pleased

we can have situation that blemish (stain) will appear

in mu consultation form i have queation about filler, client has to know we not sure what wnding result going to be like

its going to be hard to pigment, can have stains, misscoloration

its like spange

you got smaller holes and bigger holes in lips there are also capillaries...its mucous membrane

its not same to work lips and brows

it is important to ask your client if they had lipfiller

we never know wnding effect

its like our organism it can accept something or not

pigment dont need to be accepted by organism... there is not person that doing just 100% right in PMU and we can not pigment lips 6x times because we can hurt someone!!!

The Description of colors in permanent make up