Practice English Speaking&Listening with: Round Oak Table Top with Osmo Polyx-Oil Pure

Difficulty: 0

- The Wood Whisperer is sponsored by Powermatic and Titebond

with a special finishing feature sponsored by Osmo.

All right, so today we've got a bit of a different project.

My brother-in-law just moved to Colorado

and had this table from his previous house.

Now it was perfect for that house,

'cause it was a little bit smaller,

but in the new house there's more room.

So a table of this small diameter,

I think it's like 36 inches or something like that,

it just isn't really working for them.

Two adults, two children,

they need something a little bit better.

And I checked it out

and it's really just pocket screwed into the top.

The base is in pretty good shape

and it's a painted base.

So I figured, you know what, let's put a top on

that matches their new floors

and see if that doesn't work a little bit better for them.

So it's a fairly simple construction,

just a bunch of red oak boards cut into a circle.

But before we do that let me show you

the underside of this table,

so you can see why I decided this would be easy to do.

So each apron just has a couple of pocket screws

up through the apron and into the top,

so it's a super easy swap out

and no need to make an entire base for this one.

So let's get to it.

Because I want the table to have a more substantial

look and feel I'm starting with 5/4 red oak.

The boards are cut strategically to remove any major knots

or temperamental grain.

(machines whirring)

Once we have a decent layout we can number the boards

to keep them in order

and then start the milling process.

Because some of the boards are wider than my jointer

I'm gonna use a special trick

that involves removing the jointer guard.

If you do this please exercise the highest level of caution

and don't be a dingus.

And be sure to replace the guard

as soon as the operation the complete.

The Wood Whisperer Incorporated is not responsible,

blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah.

The board is jointed like any other,

only there's a small portion of the board

that overhangs the bed and doesn't get cut.

After a few passes we've got a nice,

flat eight inch wide section and then a small rough strip.

At the workbench we'll use a hand plane

to remove that small strip

and make it level with the rest of the board.

There's a variation of this technique

that uses a piece of plywood and a planer,

which can be faster if you have a lot of these to do,

but for a small piece or two this method is nice.

Plus it gets your heart rate up for a few minutes,

which isn't a bad thing.

Now that we have a nice, flat surface for reference

we can send the boards through the planer.

It's a great feeling not having to sacrifice board width

just because of the size of your jointer.

By the way, that good looking guy right there

is Nicole's brother, Jason,

not him, that's George Costanza.

Believe it or not, he's my new shop helper,

so you might see him, or at least his arms,

in a lot of my future videos.

Not him, him.

The boards are all ripped to width at the table saw

removing any gnarly bits from the edges.

With the boards together I'll mark the center

and then use a straight edge to get a ballpark idea

of the circle size that we need to cut,

which has a 24 inch radius.

To assist with the glue up

I'll drop in the occasional domino.

This is by no means a necessary step,

but on a wide panel like this

the dominoes make for a stress-free glue up experience

without the need for giant cauls.

For a little more working time

I'll be using Titebond Extend.

The glue is added to each edge, rolled,

and the dominoes are popped in.

I'm lucky to have some long parallel clamps,

but pipe clamps also work great for big glue ups like this.

Once the glue is set up, but not fully cured,

I scrap it away with a card scraper.

After the glue is dry the surface is sanded

to remove any glue residue.

Now it's time to cut a circle.

We'll flip the table upside down

and prepare to make a simple trammel arm.

I'll cut a piece of 1/2 MDF to about eight inches wide

and 36 inches long.

These aren't critical dimensions.

It has to be long enough to make the 24 inch radius swing

and wide enough to hold the router.

Regarding the thickness,

just make sure that your bit can plunge all the way through

when sitting on top of the trammel arm.

One side of the board will get a small dowel pin

a few inches from the edges.

I'll then measure from the center of that point

to another point exactly 24 inches away.

My bit is 3/8 in diameter,

so I'll measure 3/7 further to help to find

where the router bit will plunge.

For the dowel pin I'll drill a 1/4 inch hole

through the trammel arm.

On the underside of the table

I'll drill the same hole in the absolute center,

making sure that I don't go all the way through.

Using a 1/4 inch dowel pin

I can drop the trammel arm in place

and you can see how this is gonna work.

To make the dowel connection a little bit more rigid

I'll add some CA glue on the jig side.

To help the arm slide with less friction

I'll wax the bottom.

On the other end of the jig I'll line up my bit

and trace the shape of my router.

This helps me line up some double stick tape

for securing the base to the trammel arm.

If I were doing more than one table like this

I'd probably make something a little bit more secure

to mount the router,

but this is gonna work for just one circle.

Because the bit will eventually go through the top

we need a sacrificial surface underneath.

I'll use some more double stick tape

to secure the tabletop

as well as the off cut material.

We really don't want anything to move during this process.

I'll go about 1/4 inch per pass

working my way around the circle

and sucking up any dust that remains in the groove.

If you're a fan of cartoons

you're probably expecting me to fall through the floor.

Meep meep.

And just like that we have a perfect circle.

Now as a completely unnecessary step

I'm going to cut a face grain plug for that 1/4 hole

that we drilled in the bottom of the table.

Ah, that's better.

For the profile of the top

we're departing from a traditional ogee profile

and going with something a little bit more modern.

This is a big honking bit,

so I'm gonna use my big honking router.

I'll take it in a few passes.

On the bottom edge we'll add a small 1/8 inch round-over.

The bottom gets a quick sanding to smooth everything out.

Since it's the bottom we won't really go crazy here

with surface prep.

Around the perimeter we'll give some extra attention

to the edge where there might be some lines

from the multiple router cuts.

For the show face of the top

we'll start by scraping the surface

to remove any mill marks.

Scraping is nice, because it reduces the amount of sanding

that we'll need to do.

I do like sanding with at least

my final grit after the scraping.

Scraping leavings a decent surface,

but I really prefer the uniformity

of a 180 or a 220 grit sanding.

By the way, when sanding a large round-over like this

it's best to sand with the grain

to avoid any cross-grain scratch marks.

Red oak has really deep grain and open pores,

so for a kitchen table I think a pore fill is called for

and we only need to fill the top side.

This particular filler is water soluble

and this can is pretty old,

so I'll scrape the solid material out

and then dilute it with water

to the consistence of pancake batter.

Mm, pancakes.

The filler is spread across the surface,

driving it into the pores.

Once dry we'll scrape the excess

and sand the entire surface smooth.

The idea here is to keep the filler in the pores,

but get the rest of the surface back to bare wood.

For the finish I'm using Osmo Polyx-Oil Pure.

This is their low VOC product.

It applies pretty easily

by putting a little bit on the surface

and then spreading it out to a very thin layer.

Now for full disclosure, I have been testing Osmo

on several projects over the course of the last year

and I did purchase all of those materials myself.

I've been very happy with the results

and after filming this project

I approached them about sponsoring the video.

So what are they paying me for?

Basically to spend a little more time showing you

what products I'm using and how to apply them.

Nothing more.

As always, my opinions are my own

and I was gonna use this finish

with or without the sponsorship.

Anywho, once the finish is spread out

I go back and use a paper towel to quickly wipe away

any spots where I have some excess.

Now I let it sit for an hour

and then come back

and repeat the spreading process one more time.

A finish like this has some distinct advantages.

First, it's low VOC.

You still want some ventilation,

but this stuff isn't gonna knock you on your butt.

Second, it's fairly durable.

It's not really a true film finish,

but the layer of wax left behind is definitely hard

and does a great job of locking out liquids.

Third, it's really easy to apply.

It's pretty much dummy-proof.

Fourth, it's incredibly easy to repair.

When this table gets scratched up

we'll be able to do spot repairs

without having to completely refinish the top.

Once I let that second coat sit for another hour

I come back with a white Scotch-Brite type pad

on my random orbit sander.

This not only drives the finish deep into the pores,

it also lightly abrades the surface, making it super smooth.

I then finish off the surface with a terrycloth buffer.

The process is then repeated on the top.

The only difference with the top side finish

is that I'm gonna add in an additional level of protection

using their TopOil product.

It's a high solids finish

that's completely food safe once it dries.

I'll wipe on a thin layer using an applicator pad.

You can also roll it on with a microfiber roller

or buff it in with Scotch-Brite.

Now since this is red oak

I'm a little hesitant to apply a thicker layer,

because it's likely to result in air bubbles in the finish.

So I'll just wipe on two thin layers instead.

No runs, no streaks, just a perfect smooth, satin finish.

It's cool.

Nice overhang too.

- [Man] Yeah.

- So there it is, a pretty quick and easy upgrade.

Now it's a table that's fit for a family of four.

Nice finish on there that they can beat up

and if they're anything like my kids

they're gonna take forks and drag them across the surface,

so we've got a finish that's easy to repair,

which is a good thing.

So all in all, a pretty quick weekend project

and it looks pretty good.

(gentle music)

The Description of Round Oak Table Top with Osmo Polyx-Oil Pure