- In this video, we're going to show you
which four plumbing parts and tools
you should never be using.
Now you're probably wondering, what are these things here?
Well, believe it or not, these are all available
at your big buck stores like Lowes and Home Depo,
but you should not be using these parts here.
And as a matter of fact, three of these parts here
are a violation of the plumbing code
and the building code so if you were to get caught
using these by your building inspector,
they would freeze your job right there on the spot
and they would not approve you
and you would have to get this remedied until they
would give you a properly closed up building permit.
So that all starts right now.
(upbeat country music)
Prohibited plumbing part number one,
All right so let's start here with the S-trap
and why this thing is so not the part you want to use here.
Okay, so this is what your S-trap looks like.
Now you've probably never seen this before
because there are really only in older houses
and so a normal P-trap, you exit out of the sink
the drain pipe would come down to here
and it would go like this
and then straight over into the wall.
But in this case, what we're doing is
we're coming out of the drain pipe,
going back up into another back to back P-trap
and then it's going down this way,
vertically down to the floor.
So the reason why this is a banned,
and all 50 states banned this by the way,
it's in the uniform plumbing code, it is a code violation.
The reason why it is banned is because a lot of times
if a nearby toilet flushes,
or even when you turn off your water,
and if the water continues going in it
and it empties out too much of this,
and there's not enough water left back
in here to maintain the trap seals,
and remember this is supposed to be your trap seal here,
it's supposed to be covered in water inside this pipe here
from here up to about here.
And this is called the trap seal.
And that column of water right there
is what is going to protect you from the methane gases
that are gonna come up through your pipe
and get into your house.
So a lot of times in older houses,
people always complained about the smell of methane gas,
you know the sewer gases in their house
because they had an S-trap and it lost water.
Sometimes if you have a powerful enough toilet nearby
that flushes, it can suck some of the water,
just the flow of the,
it's almost like a capillary action type thing,
but not quite but basically,
the flow of that toilet flushing the water
can suck with the air, can vacuum out some of the water too
so that's why these are banned in pretty much all 50 states.
I don't know of a single state that allows these,
I believe if you still have one installed,
they'll allow you to continue with it.
But if you're getting any kind of inspection,
if you're doing any kind of remodeling,
they would not allow you to continue to use this.
So if you encounter one of these
and you're doing a remodeling, I would say
if you don't know how to do this yourself,
try to bring in a plumber that can reroute the drain pipe
inside your wall so that you can go to a standard
out of the wall waistline so that you can just do
a single regular P-trap.
And really, this S-trap is really just kind of like
your free spot with Bingo.
It's the easiest one of the bunch here
because I don't know of a single city or state
that even allows these anymore.
All right, so this is the part of the Florida plumbing codes
here, where it bans the S-traps.
And remember our Florida plumbing codes are based
on the uniform plumbing codes, which many states adopt
some almost follow it exactly
some might remunerate things.
But I believe our chapters are the same chapters
of the uniform plumbing code in here and chapter 10 here
where it covers traps, interceptors and separators.
If you look down here in Section 1002.3 prohibited traps.
And item number five there says S-traps.
So there it is, it's not even minced words
or there's no way you can misconstrue it
well maybe they didn't mean S-traps
or maybe there's conditions where you're allowed to have it.
No, there aren't any.
It specifically denies you to use S-traps.
And I'm willing to bet that every single city
and every single state probably has that prohibited trap.
Prohibited plumbing part number two,
the form and fit P-trap,
otherwise known as the accordion P-trap,
or the flexible drain pipe.
This is another banned part that you're not allowed to use.
All right, so now let's take a look at why
this form and fit P-trap is not allowed.
Okay, so let's look first at who uses this type of a P-trap
these form and fit P-traps.
So these are typically picked out by DIYers.
And of course your handymen.
These are handymen specials,
they call it in the plumbing industry.
And the reason why they picked something like this
is when they're remodeling or replacing your P-trap,
okay, or they're remodeling their bathroom,
they put in a new vanity, and they go to hook this up.
And they realize that this is now off-center
from where it used to be by six, seven inches.
And so what do you do?
You know a few inches over.
So they come and they buy this as one of those quick fixes
And they do this with it.
So they adjust it over like that,
and it looks good on paper, but hey that's a great idea.
I don't have to do anything, it's a quick fix.
But so one thing that should set off a red flag
is the fact that it's a cheap solution,
it's a quick solution,
and that the DIYers and all the handymen are using it.
Those to me are the big red flag things here.
Now, we did a video a few months ago about
how to assemble your P-trap when it's off-center.
And in there, I showed you the proper way to do it,
which is the way the plumbers usually do it,
which is you form it out of a few parts of PVC pipe
and some fittings and you glue them together.
And it only took me about 10 minutes of work
to put all those pieces together
and make a solution that works.
That satisfies the plumbing code.
But we got a lot of hate on that video from all the trolls,
mostly handymen that would come on there and tell me
I'm an idiot, "You just turned a simple solution
"into a difficult all day long project"
and you know, they brag, "I get these things,
"I get these foreman fits, I get these, you know,
"snappy traps and all that."
But these handymen don't understand
that they are violating the plumbing code by doing that.
So they're coming in here bragging.
And in their arrogance, they don't realize
how they're totally screwing things up for their customer.
Okay, so the other reason why
you don't want to have one of these in place
is that your insurance company for your house,
your homeowners insurance company,
if they find out you have one of these,
they will kick you off the policy.
Now in the past year, I've already had to go on
to two different ladies' houses okay?
To remove these because what one lady in particular,
the insurance company came and did an inspection
on her house and they discovered this,
they gave her 48 hours to get rid of it
or they were going to drop her.
So we had to like just you know real quick get over there
and get this thing pulled out of there
and put in a real P-trap setup for her.
So that's another reason why you don't want it.
you get the code violations,
it's not a very good solution
because it traps particles and debris.
And your insurance company, if they find out you have this
can potentially drop you as a customer.
Okay, so now here on the the accordion type of form and fit
P-traps here, here's in the code where it prohibits them.
And it's not explicit.
So you do have to sort of read between the lines.
But if you look here, like I mentioned before,
in our Florida building code, the plumbing codes here,
which follow the uniform plumbing codes.
And here under, we're in Section 10 again
and under traps and interceptors and separator
under Section 1002.2 design of traps.
So here we're talking about the type of trap you can use
and it says fixture traps shall be self scouring
fixture traps shall not have interior partitions,
except where such traps are integral with the fixture,
or where such traps are constructed of an approved material
that may be made with an approved elastomeric gasket,
blah, blah, blah.
Anyway, so it's the first part of that
that really comes into play here.
Because it says the fixture trap shall be self scouring.
And as I've pointed out many times over the years,
self scouring means what goes in must be able to come out,
the water that goes in there must be
what cleans out the trap as it's going in and out
and through the trap.
And when you have those accordions there
and I've seen it because I've taken out
these accordion traps from other people's houses,
the problem is all of the stuff
that gets clogged in there, all of the hair,
the junk, the dust, the goo, the toothpaste,
you name it, it's in there.
And if people drop floss down their drain,
the floss is caught in there.
And floss can cause capillary action,
it can cause a very undesirable capillary action,
which means that if the floss gets caught in the vent pipe,
as it goes further down and goes into the wall
and gets caught in the vent pipe,
the dental floss there can actually cause the water
to leave the trap and drip and run down the pipe.
And when you look at it, you think
there's no way that can happen.
It just boggles the mind.
But it does happen.
And it's called capillary action,
and it can actually cause the water in your trap to leave.
And then you'll get the methane smell,
you'll have the sewer gases coming back up
because enough water seeped out of your trap
that you weren't able to maintain
that column of water in there.
So here's a prime example of a really bad one.
Because you imagine here, if you had to have water
and stuff coming down here and going at an angle like this,
it would all get caught in here.
What if you're a guy with a beard, and you shave your beard
and all the clippings go in here
and they all get caught in there.
All right, so this here is your saddle valve here.
And the reason why they call this a saddle valve
is because they clamp it around a pipe, see,
so the pipe would go right here through the middle here,
And it clamps over it like a saddle
and you have this little black rubber piece here
that goes up in here that it will clamp over the pipe.
And it kind of looks like this, see.
And so the problem with this,
what people do with this is,
usually handymen and DIYers use this part here,
if they have to tap into a copper pipe for water.
And they're using this to make like a nice line
go into your ice maker or for fresh water
for your coffee maker.
They'll do this.
And what happens is the way this works is,
you see this guy right here up top here,
the more you tighten him down, there's a little needle here,
underneath here that pierces down into that copper pipe.
So it taps into that copper pipe.
And then when you tighten everything down,
this is supposed to tighten completely down around the pipe.
And then you have a nice source of water.
And it was quick and easy and dirty,
just like all the other code violations
that we talked about, okay.
So the problem with the saddle valves
is they work real good at the beginning,
and it doesn't take long at all before they start leaking
and dripping water.
And that can turn into a very costly repair,
depending on where your saddle valve is located.
And of course can lead to massive thousands of dollars
in mold damage just from from stupid $5 part
that you had no business using in the first place.
So you're probably wondering, well,
why does Home Depot and Lowes and all the other stores
make these available to people?
Why are they using them?
Well, I don't know why it's stupidity,
there's a lot of parts that they sell you
that you should not be using.
And this is definitely one of them.
In fact, most plumbers when they show up on the scene
will just take this off and chuck it.
So the people generally use this because they lack
one, they lack the skill set
to do any kind of soldering of pipe.
And two, they're too cheap to bring in a plumber
that can do the fix for them in 10 minutes
and just solder in like a T-adapter for them.
And then they can have a tap in to convert
into something like this where they could screw
their hosing for the water.
But it always boils down to time and money.
Somebody was trying to save time,
somebody was trying to save money.
And then you combine that with a handymen
that doesn't know what the heck he's doing, all right.
Has absolutely zero common sense.
And I don't know how in the world, people think
that it's okay to just tap in and pierce a pipe like that.
And I'll tell you something else too.
A lot of times when they tighten down on these
or just the act of piercing into the pipe
can deform that pipe and take it out of round.
That also could lead to turbulence of the water
inside that pipe, which could break down
any nearby soldering Connections on the pipe too.
So there's secondary failures that can happen.
I've seen some of these that they were so badly corroded
and everything that eventually it could corrode
through the copper pipe that it's on because
of all the water leaking through,
that will greatly accelerate that pipe degrading
and falling apart and just crumbling.
And then you'll have a much bigger leak on your hands.
One that's like literally shooting water.
So that's why you never want to use a saddle valve ever.
Okay, so there's your saddle valve on the pipe here,
ready to be installed.
So this is how your uninformed handymen do this.
They screw down both ends of this
until it's tighten on the pipe.
And I'll do this side here.
So they wait till it's nice and snug like that.
Make sure it's really squeezing on there good.
And you can see how the, that's the saddle right there.
Okay, so then what they do is they they start screwing
this thing down here.
And that little point is going to shoot right down
into the middle and go right into the top of the pipe.
So I can feel it grabbing into it now.
So I think we might have it, we'll see.
They usually go all the way down till it's tight.
Okay, so now we're going to loosen this back up,
and we'll see if it pierced the pipe there.
So this will come all the way up again,
reverse it all the way back up to where it was.
And we'll loosen this.
You can see right there, there's your hole.
So the hole is right there where the tip of my finger is.
So it's just a very small hole.
And that hole allows the water to come up
through the saddle valve here
and it comes out of this port here
where you have your ice maker hose going.
And that's how it supposedly works.
OK, so now we're going to show you where in the code,
it says here that you cannot use these saddle valves, okay?
So again, here in our Florida building code
and the plumbing codes here, which are based
on like I've mentioned before, the uniform plumbing code.
And in there in chapter six is where we find ourselves now
under water supply and distribution.
So right here in Section 605.9,
under prohibited joints, and Connections.
It says the following types of joints and connections
shall be prohibited.
And if you look at number four,
it says right there saddle type fittings.
And again, there's no ambiguity here.
There's no well, they didn't directly say it.
So we should be able to use it,
or we're just using a temporary, you know,
we should be able to use it.
Nobody ever does a temporary saddle joint
because they know damn well if they unscrew the thing
and take it off, they're going
to have water shooting everywhere.
So let's not kid ourselves,
anybody that thinks they're doing a temporary fitting
with a saddle type fitting with a saddle valve is nuts.
They're just lying to themselves.
They're lying to you.
They're hiding it from the inspectors.
And this is why you do not ever use a saddle type fitting.
Now this is a tool here
that I've used this a few times before
I used to own one of these, I threw it out,
I don't even use it anymore.
So I paid up my own money just to show you guys
what not to buy.
So you're welcome America.
But anyway, so this is a faucet handle sleeve puller.
And you know, I have some Husky tools,
I enjoy Husky I don't have any problem with their tools,
but this particular tool, complete total waste of money.
I cannot recommend this tool for anybody to use.
And I'll show you why right now.
Okay, so let me show you here.
Now why we use this tool here.
So normally, when we're doing plumbing
and when we're remodeling,
every time I come across a water cut off valve,
I change them automatically, whenever we're remodeling,
I just automatically change it out
no matter what to a brand new one.
And so this is how they actually work here, let me show you.
So when you change out one of these angle stops here,
these are called compression.
So what happens is you unscrew the knot here
with your big rigid, all in one wrench there.
And when it unscrews, the valve comes off.
But then you can't get this off because you're supposed to.
Now this won't be moving,
this will be compressed in place, okay?
But this is going to be compressed down,
that's where the seal is actually made.
Otherwise, you would have dripping water everywhere.
And so you can't get the the nut off of there
until you get this thing off here.
This is the sleeve.
Some people call this the ferrule F-E-R-R-U-L-E,
Some people call it a ferrule ring.
Some people call it a ferrule sleeve.
Some people just call it a sleeve.
But no matter what you call it, that part has to come off.
So how do you get that thing off?
Well, the way this tool supposedly works
is you're supposed to stick it in here like this.
And it goes on all the way in the pipe
It is supposed to go all the way around that thing.
And it's supposed to screw this part here into the big nut.
Okay, like that.
And once it screws into the nut,
you're then supposed to take this guy here and turn.
So then once you have the whole apparatus on there,
the tool is now in place, you were supposed
to turn the handle here, while squeezing this
with your hands to hold this bracket here behind the nut.
And watch what happens.
See, it's supposed to slowly pull the nut out.
The only problem is that you'll see a lot of times
you have this problem going on,
you can't quite get the right distance.
And so you're going to have to handle banging with it.
That's one failure mode that I see a lot.
The other one is it's just a poor design of this handle
that they don't give you enough mechanical advantage
by making it longer.
Like you would on other tools where you stick a screwdriver
through and crank it around, you know you don't have
a moment arm or a wrenching action that you can take use of
because now you are just doing with your thumb
and a couple of fingers on the backside.
So that's weird and that hurts your fingers really bad
because sometimes you get these sleeves
that don't want to budge.
And this is not the tool
for something that doesn't want to budge,
because what happens is, as you're squeezing
with all your might, and trying to turn this
with all your might with a couple of fingers,
what happens is the forces are too great.
And it wants to spread this guy like this,
and it just pops right, it just it can't seem to do it,
it just, these keep popping out like this.
There's too much movement,
you can't have a tool like this with movement like this,
you have to have a rigid tool that's designed specifically
to fit around the back of that nut and stay there.
Okay, that's why I don't like this thing at all.
And not only that, these are sharp edges all over here,
and they dig into your hand.
And so I had, I bought one of these a few years ago,
I made the mistake of buying because it
'cause it was a cheap $10 tool.
The problem here is that when you get those sleeves
that don't want to budge, you're fighting with this thing.
One time, I fought for 45 minutes with a sleeve,
that didn't want to come off.
And I couldn't just cut the pipe behind it
and say the heck with it, because there wasn't enough pipe
behind there to cut it because whoever the plumber was
originally, that put this on there wasn't too bright
and left a very short amount of copper pipe
and so I couldn't even get behind it to cut it.
So that's why I went and started to buy
two different tools that I use now.
All right, so what I have here is
these two other prefer tools that I like to use.
So I use this duck puller here,
this is probably my favorite one.
And this one cost about 40 bucks.
So that's why a lot of people are not so willing
to pay that kind of money.
And it works in a similar fashion.
They all work under the same pretense
that they want to go around.
Let me get this just closer here.
They go around behind the nut.
And then this screws in here,
and it forces itself against the copper pipe.
And then you can see all I have to do is get a wrench
and turn this guy here.
And let me get it right there for you to see.
So all I need is this wrench here,
which doesn't fit, does this side?
No, wait just one minute.
All right, so all I do is I take my wrench
and just turn it like that.
See, let me just take it off and show you
because I really have it loose,
you just take the wrench and you keep turning it
and you can see how it slowly pulls the nut
with the sleeve right off of the pipe.
It really is that easy.
Now of course here, you're going to be using
your small wrench and adjustable wrench or whatever,
or fixed or you can use this one, this side
of the rigid all in one wrench fits it perfectly.
I will put a link to this wrench down in the description
so you can check it out.
It's probably one of the best things ever.
I use this so much in plumbing,
because it's designed to fit everything,
all of your valves and the toilet,
you know the toilet hose as well,
to secure the toilet hose onto the valves.
But see how this screws this off right there.
it's just that quick and that easy.
There's another tool that I use.
Okay, so here's another tool I use,
it does the same very similar type thing here.
So it looks like this.
So you take this and it fits over the pipe.
And it screws into the big nut there.
So once I have that screwed into the big nut,
and it's nice and tight, what I then do is
I get a socket with a ratchet and put it right here
and just click click click, just keep turning it
and turning it and you'll see what's happening.
See how it slowly draws the nut right off of the pipe
with the sleeve, it just pushes it against the sleeve.
So that's a much better mechanical advantage
than this other stupid thing.
This is probably one of the worst designs ever.
I'm quite surprised really at Husky that they would
put out a tool like this.
I mean, this thing is just horrible.
And it hurts your hand to even use it.
These other two here are nothing, okay?
Now yeah, this is a lot cheaper.
It's 10 bucks.
But what good is it when it doesn't even work
on most of the sleeves that you're going to be pulling off
because let me tell you something.
Now what I showed you here was just so easy,
I could do it with my hand.
But remember when these are compressed on,
and they're on there for 30 years,
and corroded and the pipe has maybe got green and corrosion,
that thing's not coming off,
it's like permanently cemented on there.
And you need something that's real aggressive
that goes old school on that, like this,
it's a simple case of push and pull at the same time.
And this is a much easier mechanical advantage,
the ability to use a wrench and the screw
that you know it's using the the threaded screw
that slowly like a warm drive almost
it just slowly drives it up.
So that's why we don't recommend you use this thing,
save yourself the agony and don't bother.
All right, so we'll take another look here at all of our new
enemies and hopefully some new friends over here.
And we'll put a link down on the description here
in the video description to all of these newer tools here.
So that if you want to go buy any of them from Amazon,
you can and just remember we get a little bit of commission
from Amazon when you buy through our links.
That's what supports our channel,
gives us a little bit of income.
And that's what allows us to keep continuing
bring you these useful videos.
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We'll see you on the next one.
(upbeat country music)