Hello and welcome to another episode
of Marty's Matchbox Makeovers.
today I shall be making over this E type Jaguar,
which is a number 32b.
And was made the same year I was born, which was in 1962.
This model was donated by a subscriber from Canada,
named: Michael ella Fontaine.
So thank you very much for that Michael,
and I hope you enjoy the show.
These Jaguars came out with clear or green windows.
This one has clear windows.
They also came out not only in red,
but in a metallic bronze color.
So this one's been pretty badly knocked about, as you can see.
There's no real dents or damage,
but there's hardly any paint left on this thing.
The tires look a little bit worn out too,
and the hubs are filthy dirty.
So as usual, I just drill out the rivets to remove the base.
Now. it's time to remove the interior and the glass.
The plastic windscreen is quite dull and shows normal wear and tear.
Next I shall drill some holes in these rivet posts
and then thread them to use when I put the model back together.
These are the types of screws that I used
to reassemble the model when I finished doing it up.
They are button-headed M2 Allen screws.
I put a bit of tape around my drill, so that I don't drill too deep.
After I've drilled out the holes in the rivet post,
I then cut a thread using this tap.
You can see it has three cutting edges,
and three areas known as flutes;
where all the iron filings are collected.
These flutes need to be periodically cleaned
during the tapping of a thread.
A small drop of oil aids in the process.
So I just screw it down gently and back it out periodically,
and clean all the iron filings off of the end.
Here I am doing it a second time and going a little bit deeper this time.
Here I'm using a toothpick,
you can see I'm cleaning out the flutes.
Now that the hole has had a thread cut in it,
I do a test-fit of one of the M2 screws,
to see if I've gone deep enough.
Well, don't they look good!
Now it's on to stripping and painting of the body and chassis.
After I've stripped it, I'm going to paint it
with this Tamiya Ts-85 Mica Red.
This restoration is for people that do not own a airbrush.
I'm just going to be using tins of aerosol paint for this makeover,
to show how it can be done without the use of an airbrush.
I'm applying the paint stripper using a spare brush,
which I use solely for this job.
After the paint has been loosened and starts to blister,
I then use this toothbrush to remove the paint from the model.
I do it in a bath of water,
as the water neutralizes the paint stripper.
That's the body done, now for the base.
Well that came off quite easily, didn't it?
As you can see, the wheels on this model, they are very finely detailed.
The hub's have got spokes on them.
Now you can see
these spoked wheels get very dirty.
So I'm going to use a brush
and some soapy water,
To clean all the muck out
that is collected between the spokes.
Now I'm not removing these wheels today,
because as I said:
this is a makeover
for someone who does not have specialized equipment.
So instead of removing the wheels, I am simply masking them off.
So when I spray the base black,
the wheels won't get any paint on them.
I'm using 3M,
that's MMM masking tape, for this job.
After I've wrapped the wheels,
I tuck all the ends in at the back, using a toothpick.
This is now ready to paint black.
Usually on these models
there is always a protrusion of some description,
by which you can hold the part that you're going to paint
with some tongs.
That's why you don't get mucky fingers.
For the undercoat I'm using an aerosol can
of Tamiya light gray primer.
Now I'd like to introduce this new machine that I've made:
Other restorers manually polish their vehicles
before applying the paint.
Well, that was too much like hard work for me.
So I've invented this machine
that does the polishing process for me.
I use cotton balls
and a special secret solution:
that I call Diamond Class polishing solution.
I only add about half a jar of the polishing solution,
to polish this vehicle.
It needs to be just enough,
so that the vehicle remains submerged during the polishing process.
Next: using tongs,
I place the unpolished model into the solution
and ensure that it is fully submerged.
I will now mount the cleaning chamber
to the body of the machine.
On this machine,
there are two polishing cycles to choose from:
One is called shine, and one is mega.
Which means mega shine.
Well, I'm just going to start off on shine
and let's see how it goes.
Well, I can already see some improvement.
I think I'll switch it up to mega.
MACHINE WHIRS FASTER
you can really see the metal starting to shine brightly
from within the polishing chamber.
Okay, well I think that's enough.
I don't want to overdo it.
DRYLY: So here you can see; I am wearing a welding helmet.
The metal is extremely highly reflective after the treatment.
And the reflected light can damage your eyes,
if you look directly at it.
I'm going to fish the model out of the jug now,
so you can see the full effect.
That is so much better than I had anticipated.
Look at it gleam!
I'm happy with that.
Here you can see the body has been covered with a light gray undercoat.
The metal was so bright and shiny,
that I was unable to film
this part of the makeover.
So now it's time for the top coat color.
I'm using Tamiya spray paint,
TS 85 Bright Mica Red.
And it should look very similar to the original model.
This paint covers super quick.
And I'm only going to give it maybe two coats.
It comes out of the can with quite a heavy spray.
But it is a beautiful color,
and it dries
with a really high gloss finish.
I use these magnetic paint brush clamps,
to support my models whilst they are drying.
Here I've placed a glass salad bowl
over the model, to keep the dust off.
Now I'm going to paint the base
with this Black Satin paint,
straight from the hardware shop.
Just a couple of light coats,
and the job is done.
I place that under the salad bowl also.
Once again; to keep the dust off.
Whilst that paint's drying,
I'm going to clean the tires.
They are a little bit rough around the edges,
this model has had a lot of play.
So I actually use some very very fine
wet and dry paper,
and just rubbed around the edges of the tires,
just to take off a few little burs of rubber
that were there.
And whilst I'm about it, I'm cleaning the windscreen.
The windscreen came really clean.
it does show some minor signs of damage
and wear and tear.
So I'm using this metal polish,
and a cotton bud,
to try and polish some of the minor scratches out of it.
It doesn't take too long,
and when you're finished,
it's actually quite rewarding to see how much better it looks.
It may take two or three attempts,
to get it to the standard that you're happy with.
So, that's all the minor abrasions polished out.
So, I'm quite happy how that transparency came good
with the polish,
but for the finishing touch, now:
I'm going to submerge the transparency
in a bath of self-shining floor polish.
So I just gently dunk it under,
and make sure that I don't get any air bubbles on it.
I shake off the excess
and place it on a piece of kitchen towel.
And then once again:
use a small glass bowl as a dust shield.
And leave it to dry.
When it's dry, this is what you're left with.
It looks almost brand new.
Now that the Mica Red has dried,
I'm going to put on a Pearl Clear.
Which is a Tamiya Paint Ts-65.
What's special about this Pearl Clear, is that in the paint:
there are some very very minute flecks of silver,
almost like Stardust.
And when you spray it on top of the red,
it gives a beautiful metallic look to the paint.
Now the base is dried, I'll unmask the wheels.
They still look a little bit plain.
So I'm going to brighten them up with this chrome marker pen.
I'm actually diluting it,
with some mineral turps.
And this way, it will run more freely,
in between the gaps in the spokes.
If you don't dilute it, you do run the risk
of clogging up the gaps in the spokes,
with heavy blobs of silver ink.
Here's a close-up to show you
how good they look, when I finish painting them.
Now it's time to reassemble them all.
I freshen these tires up with the black wash,
made with Tamiya X-1 Black Paint,
and it was thinned with Tamiya thinners.
This wash is just painted onto the tires with a soft brush.
And after its dried,
the tires look rejuvenated.
I noticed that the tire on the front left
had a small nick in the sidewall.
So I took it off and flipped it over so that the good side would be showing out.
I am wearing rubber gloves here,
because I don't want to run the risk
of leaving a fingerprint or a thumbprint
on the model as I'm assembling it.
My little finger is exposed,
so that I can still use my mobile phone
when I am recording the footage.
After installing the windscreen and the interior,
I place the base on.
And i fix it into place, using two color matched screws.
So this is what we started with:
As you may remember, it had a lot of play wear on it,
hardly any paint, and scuffed up tires.
The wheel hubs looked a little bit grotty,
as did the windscreen.
So this is what it looks like now!
With a fresh coat
of red stardust metallic paint,
spruced up wheels and tires,
and a detailed interior.
I'm sure you will agree;
that this car has been transformed
into a thing of beauty.
This car has now been snapped up at the auction,
by Lord Charles Featherspoon the Thrird,
to a bargain price of only 100,000 dollars.
For its first run,
he has driven it over to lady Charrington's mother (unclear).
to take her out to the local inn,
for a ploughman's lunch.
And a half-pint of bishops finger.
What a wonderful way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
CAR ROARS INTO THE DISTANCE
Thank you so much for watching Marty's Matchbox Makeovers.
I hope you enjoyed the show.
Till next time, goodbye!
..I'm gonna lift it up, we'll...
..flippin' hell, that worked quite well.
SWOOSH OF VISOR