Practice English Speaking&Listening with: How to INSTALL IN.CA.S. system and BLEED it - [Ep.2]

Hi folks! Welcome to a new episode of Brakingarage!

Today we're moving on to fitting our system,

but to do that I need an assistant...

Andrea: Hi everyone, I'm Andrea!

Simone: Ahah! An assistant!

Today, Andrea is going to show us how to install our IN.CA.S. system.

Andrea, show us how it's done!

Andrea: Right folks,

With the help of our frame assembled especially for you,

we'll start by installing the calliper;

get the green spacer from the package to start installing the calliper

Once it's in position, position the pump by the handlebars and you’ll see that the hose is (intentionally) longer

and not in the correct position,

so you're going to cut it and reposition it properly.

For this type of procedure,

make sure you use protective gloves

(as you are going to be using oil that’s highly corrosive for your skin CUT)

I recommend a pair of latex gloves

Use simple pliers to cut the hose,

dismantle the fittings, being careful

to use some paper to protect the paint on your bicycle from any spilled oil.

Undo the fittings that you’re going to reuse;

once unscrewed, you'll end up with these three components:

a piece of hose and the two fittings.

Then calibrate the hose length and cut the excess hose.

Reassembling the fittings is very simple,

just insert the hose into the cylindrical part

we’re using a drill to make it easier;

position the fitting like this and screw it in.

Try to keep a millimetre of space between the fittings the first time you install it

so that if you don't get it in just the right position,

you can adjust it once screwed in;

that way you'll get the right alignment between hose and pump.

The kit has spare washers;

in this case you can see that the washer is marked,

so we'll replace it with a new one.

Once the fittings are positioned correctly,

disconnect the pump to screw it into the hose.

As we said before, we haven't got it in the right position, but because we left a millimetre of space,

we can adjust it to the most suitable position.

Once the system is installed,

you’ll need to bleed it: mainly the first section,

since you cut the hose and that's where the air will be.

Begin by removing the wheel,

inserting the spacer between the calliper pistons,

and moving the lever; you can see the stroke is too long.

Cover the hose with paper

and loosen the fitting.

Loosening the fitting will let out the first load of oil

emulsified with air.

Once this step is done, open the tank to check that the level is correct.

Once the tank is open, you can see there is still plenty of oil:

try to pump and you might also see

some bubbles rising up.

To make it easier for the air to escape,

you can "force" the spacer,

which will retract the pistons.

Bleed this part of the hose again and the system will be ready.

The system is now ready, so now you need to adjust the oil level

and close the tank, then it's time to calibrate the lever.

To avoid damage, use a syringe

to calibrate the oil in the tank;

I recommend keeping the oil level 3 mm below the edge,

to avoid spilling any when you fit the membrane.

Screw both screws in at the same time to avoid damaging the gasket.

Now you're going to fit the pads and then immediately position the wheel.

Before fitting the pad in the clip,

remove any graphite on the surface;

rub sandpaper over the surface gently,

not too hard!

You can see a difference in colour between the "rubbed" pad and the pad with graphite on the surface.

Rub the second one as well… once this is done, fit the pads to the clip,

insert them into the calliper, and fix them in place with the pin;

point the calliper towards the fork

and the first step is done!

In order to align the calliper and the disc, keep on pumping the brakes,

checking that the disc stays in the neutral position.

At this point, you can move on to adjusting the riding position;

position the lever at the distance you prefer

using the grub screw and the "stroke stop";

once the distance is set, you can reset it to "zero".

Once past the "zero" point, the piston will generate the braking power.

Then unscrew this grub screw,

keeping the lever with a slight "clearance",

until it is reset as much as possible

and then you've set your "zero".

Perfect, folks! Now I just have to say goodbye and thank you for watching this episode.

I sincerely hope it has been useful

and we'll see you again next episode!

Goodbye for now from Andrea and BrakinGarage!