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Practice English Speaking&Listening with: How to Fix: Rust Bubble Under Paint from a Rock Chip Around WIndshield

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Welcome back to the 6th Gear Garage!

Today Ill show how easy it is to repair this rust around the windshield of my Toyota


Im working on the $500 Toyota Camry again this week.

So far Ive replaced & painted a fender, repaired & painted the plastic bumper, replaced

the radiator and Now There is an ugly rust spot on the roof that Ill take care of


This all started with a stone chip in the paint and overtime, the exposed metal rusted

and has bubbled beneath the surrounding paint.

This is what happens if rock chips are left alone, so cover up chips with touch up paint

as soon as you see them.

First thing to do is clean the entire area with some wax & grease remover.

This will remove any contaminates like wax, tar, road salt, dirtstuff I dont want

to grind into the surface with sand paper.

Before I go to town grinding and sanding this rusty area, I want to protect the rubber gasket

seal trim around the windshield.

Most older cars have removable trim but in the 2000s most vehicles had trim that is

part of the windshield seal, which isnt removable without taking out the glass.

So I have some Q-tips here and Im just tucking it down between the rubber trim and

the roof to help it stay away from the roof edge.

Once the Q-tip is tucked in, Im going to use tape to keep the trim pulled forward.

I now have space to get in there and the tape is going to protect the rubber trim.

Im going to try using a wire brush on a drill first, to see how much of the rusty

area I can strip.

This is easy, just rest your arms on the car to help hold the drill steady.

If youre nervous about the drill kicking back, skip to the next step.

The wire brush worked ok, but I couldnt get down in the crack and the whole area still

needs some sanding, so Im going to use some 80-grit sand paper on a sanding block.

80 grit is really rough, so it will go down to bare metal with no problem.

The reason for the sanding block is so the paper will have a more uniform, flat contact

surface than if it was just my finger behind the paper.

That can cause low spots and lead to an uneven surface.

Also notice Im changing sanding directions.

An opposite cross hatch pattern sands better than the same direction.

Look at all of the rust Im removing now that I didnt get with the wire brush.

I have a brass brush, which is probably too soft for this job.

Id go with a steel brush for something like this.

So now for the vertical edge

The 80 grit paper is thick and rigid, so I let it hang down past the edge of the block

to get into the crack.

Ill keep doing this until Im past all of the rust.

Ok Im done sanding for now.

80-grit sand paper really made this go fast.

Thats bare metal but I see some pitting from the rust.

I can feel it when I drag a finger nail across the top.

Thats going to require some body filler to make it smooth before painting.

First Im going over the pitted area once more with the wire brush, since those bristles

should be able to get down into the tiny pits and brush out any remaining rust that I didnt

get with the flat sandpaper.

All rust must go!

I made a lot of dust so far, so Im blowing it away with compressed air.

Now its time to apply the body filler.

Its pretty simple to use

Just mix the filler & hardener per the instructions on the can, and using a spreader, lightly

squeegee it over the pitting from the rust.

A light skim coat is finego too thick and youll have extra sanding to do.

you can always add more if needed.

I forgot to record this step, so heres filler being applied with a spreader to the

bumper repair I did in a previous video.

Then allow the filler time to cure, according to the instructions of the product you used.

I have my 80 grit paper and sanding block again, and Im just going over the body

filler real quick to knock down the really high points.

This doesnt take much sanding.

Notice Im working further and further outside of the original repair area.

Thats alright because it will all blend together once its done.

Now Im sanding again with 180 grit paper, going sightly outside the area I sanded with

80 grit.

The higher the number, the finer the grit.

Once I get up to 400 grit paper, the scratches will be small enough to cover with filler


Notice I'm doing a cross hatch pattern again.

Im only building back up where I took down to bare metal, so the filler is going to be


This looks even now and most importantly feels even.

Because my work area is growing, I taped further down the rubber trim to be sure I dont

scratch it up.

Look at this, I have a pit in the filler.

There could have been an air bubble when I mixed it on the board.

Or maybe I just didnt spread it evenly - it happens.

Because that area is so small and everything else is so smooth, Im just going to fill

it with some spot putty.

Spot putty is meant for really small imperfections.

It doesnt need to be mixed with a hardener like body filler, so its easy to use in

small quantities.

I wiped a little too much there, so I put some back down.

Let it dry according to the instructions and it will be ready to sand smooth.

Ok the putty has cured and now Im sanding it and the surrounding area with some 320

grit on a sanding block.

And doing the same thing again with some 400 grit.

Remember to go over the scratches left by the previous grit each time you sand with

a higher grit paper to ensure no deep scratches are left behind.

Its better to go outside the repair area and make it larger than to miss some scratches.

Alright I kept sanding and heres where I am.

Now its time for some primer.

I have some paper down to block the windshield from overspray.

I also blew away any dust and now Im cleaning the entire area with the wax & grease remover.

A clean surface is essential to a good final product.

Let it dry

Near the edge I have some bare metal showing where I sanded through the filler.

This surface is perfectly smooth so Im done adding filler.

Instead Ill just hit it with a coat of Self Etching Primer.

Self Etching Primer is formulated to bond to bare metal, so its perfect to use here.

Next Im using Filler Primer.

This is a high-build primer that helps to fill any minor scratches or imperfections.

Once again, Im going to do some quick sanding with the 400 grit paper to ensure that the

surface is perfectly smooth and uniform.

Now Im doing the final sanding with 600 grit and this is covering the entire repair

area and even going a little outside to be sure all the scratches from the 400 grit are


Just be sure not to sand too much and go through the primer, back down to bare metal.

Im wiping the entire repair area with the wax & grease remover.

Even your hands can leave oils on the surface, which can cause problems when it comes time

to paint.

So theres all the prep work Ive done so far.

Most of the time and labor involved in a paint job is in the prep.

Im blowing any dust out one last time with the compressed air.

And one last cleaning with wax & grease remover.

Im going way outside of the repair area this time, because Im going to blend the

spray paint with the factory paint.

On the first color coat, dont go too heavy.

If the first coat doesnt completely cover the primer, thats ok.

Thats better than a sag or run in the paint.

This is DupliColor Perfect Match paint by the way.

Most auto parts stores carry this line.

My local store didnt have this OEM color code in stock so they ordered it for me.

So I gave this about 10 minutes to dry, and you can see there is still primer showing.

Heres a second coat.

Thats looking better.

And a third coat.

I let the color coat dry and its time for clear coat.

But before I lay that down, it seems like dust loves to land on fresh paint.

So Im going to use a tack cloth to clean any dust or overspray from the surface.

Im going to feather the clear coat into the rest of the roof, so Im wiping a large

area here.

That was dirtier than it looked, although some of that was probably overspray from the

color coats.

I have some Lacquer Clear Coat here and the trick is light coats at first.

Im going further out than I did with the color coat.

And now the second coat of clear.

Im going a tad bit heavier than the first coat.

This can nozzle has a nice wide spray pattern.

Now its time for the third coat, which is the wet coat.

The wet coat should be thick, without being so heavy that it creates a run or sag.

The wet coat helps to fill in any light areas from the first 2 coats and doesnt leave

any texture from overspray.

Heres a better look at the wet coat.

Notice how I feathered the wet coat to be lighter around the edge to blend it into the

original finish on the roof.

It looks really glossy now, but it wont for long.

Ok the clear coat has fully dried and the wet coat no longer looks wet.

Its actually less glossy than the original finish.

I pulled the car outside so you can get a better comparison.

Time for polish!

Lacquer paint is softer than the factory urethane paint, so its easy to polish to a shine

using a buffer and cloth pads.

Im using a light cutting compound by Meguiars.

If theres an orange peel surface texture in the clear coat, Id start with a heavier

cut compound and then follow up with a light cut.

So one more look at the new paint before polishing

And heres how it looks after polishing.

Now polishing does remove some material, so if I was going to do a lot of polishing, I

would have done more coats of clear.

But this is a $500 daily driver with a quarter million miles, not a show car.

If this was a show car, or something newer and nicer, Id spend the extra money on professional

urethane paint.

One more thing do towait a couple days for the new paint to fully cure and put a

coat of wax on it.

Keeping a coat of wax on the paint will make it last.

I saved a lot of money and did this job right here in my garage - and so can you!

Ill put a list below of all the products I used today.

Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section.

As always, thanks for watching and subscribe for more how-to videos and other project updates,

here at the 6th Gear Garage!

The Description of How to Fix: Rust Bubble Under Paint from a Rock Chip Around WIndshield