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IF YOU DON'T THINK THAT THIS IS A GREAT PARTY TO BE AT...

(cheering)

THERE'S SOMETHING WRONG WITH YOU. LOOK AT THIS.

(Andrew) IT'S TRUE.

DETROIT IS A CITY WITH EMPTY BUILDINGS,

VANISHED JOBS,

A POPULATION LESS THAN HALF WHAT IT WAS 50 YEARS AGO...

BUT THAT'S NOT THE WHOLE STORY.

THERE'S TENACITY, CREATIVITY,

AND STUBBORN PRIDE

RENEWED WITH EACH WAVE OF NEW ARRIVALS,

BRINGING TALENT AND FOOD FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD--

EASTERN EUROPE...

AHH.

THE AMERICAN SOUTH...

LOOK AT THE GOO.

THE MIDDLE EAST...

I LOVE RAW LIVER.

IT'S MY FAVORITE-- AND RAW KIDNEYS.

SOUTHERN ASIA.

THIS IS ABOUT 3 1/2 POUNDS OF DRIED FISH

ALL SCHMEARED ON TOP.

EVEN IN HARD TIMES, PEOPLE HERE SHOW

AN INFECTIOUS LOVE FOR THEIR CITY

THAT'S HARD TO RESIST.

ONE OF THE MOST DISTURBING THINGS

I'VE EVER PUT IN MY MOUTH, AND I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT.

I'M ANDREW ZIMMERN...

I'M SWEATING, AND MY MOUTH IS ON FIRE. WHEW.

AND THIS IS "BIZARRE FOODS AMERICA."

OH, SWEET LORD, I AM HOME.

♪♪

Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.

Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.

AMONG MANY OTHER THINGS,

DETROIT IS A CITY BUILT ON SOUL.

IN THE HEYDAY OF THE AUTO INDUSTRY,

THIS WAS AN ELLIS ISLAND FOR TENS OF THOUSANDS

OF AFRICAN-AMERICANS COMING FROM THROUGHOUT THE SOUTH

IN SEARCH OF JOBS.

THEY BROUGHT ALONG THEIR FOOD TRADITIONS

AND PRESERVED THEM.

SO IN TODAY'S DETROIT,

YOU CAN FIND THE TRADITIONAL TASTES OF PLACES

LIKE ALABAMA, SOUTH CAROLINA, AND MISSISSIPPI.

LET'S GO!

A SOUTHERN FOOD TOUR SHOULD START

AT THE EDGE OF EASTERN MARKET.

ON SATURDAYS, BERT'S MARKET PLACE

SERVES UP CHICKEN, RIBS, KARAOKE.

NOW, CHUCK, WHAT'S THE DEAL HERE?

IS THIS EVERY SINGLE WEEKEND OR...

EVERY WEEKEND IT'S LIKE THIS,

SOMETIMES CRAZIER THAN THIS.

PEOPLE CALL CHUCK BENNETT "MR. DETROIT."

HE'S A COLUMNIST FOR "THE DETROIT NEWS"

AND ENTHUSIASTIC PROMOTER

AND CONSUMER OF THE CITY'S RESTAURANT SCENE,

WHICH INCLUDES PARTIES LIKE THIS.

(cheering)

THE FOOD IS GOOD, BUT CHICKEN AND RIBS AREN'T SOUL FOOD.

AT BERT'S, YOU COME FOR THE CROWD AND KARAOKE.

HELLO, DETROIT

BUT FOR A TRUE TASTE OF SOUL...

CHUCK TAKES ME TO MOTOR CITY SOUL FOOD.

IT'S A NEIGHBORHOOD CAFETERIA

OWNED BY GEORGE AND MARTHA CLAY.

WHAT'S THE ONE THING I SHOULDN'T MISS

IF I'M EATING HERE?

ME. I'M LIKE... (laughs)

MARTHA STARTED COOKING AT AGE 6

IN HER MOTHER'S MISSISSIPPI KITCHEN.

THE BULLETPROOF GLASS

PROTECTING THE ENTIRE SERVING LINE

IS A REMINDER THAT THIS IS A TOUGH, GRITTY NEIGHBORHOOD.

BUT THE FOOD AND HOSPITALITY ARE PURE RURAL MISSISSIPPI,

AND THAT'S WHAT DRAWS THE LONG LINES

YOU'LL FIND HERE 24/7.

WHAT IS SHE DOING BACK THERE?

(Chuck) I GUESS SHE'S MAKING OUR PLATES.

I THINK SO.

SOMETHING TELLS ME SHE'S NOT GONNA LET US GET AWAY

WITH EATING LIGHT NOW.

(laughs)

IN DETROIT, MORE THAN MOST CITIES,

PEOPLE FROM DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE SOUTH

HUNG ON TO THEIR REGIONAL COOKING STYLES.

THESE ARE OXTAILS MISSISSIPPI-STYLE.

GRAVY'S A LITTLE STRONGER. IT'S A LITTLE SALTIER,

AND IT WAS ROASTED A LITTLE DRIER.

THAT'S BEEFY. TASTE THAT SEASONED SALT IN THERE.

MMM.

SAME WITH THE OKRA.

OH. WATCH WHAT HAPPENS

WHEN I PULL MY FORK OUT OF THERE.

LOOK AT THE GOO.

(laughs)

IT'S PRETTY GOOD.

THAT IS A NICE GELATINOUS STEWED OKRA.

BUT MAYBE THE STRONGEST TASTE OF THE RURAL KITCHEN

COMES IN THE CHITTERLINGS-- PORK INTESTINES

SEASONED WITH SALT AND BRAISED WITH ONIONS.

THAT STILL HAS A LITTLE BIT OF, UH,

GREASE IN THE BARREL, IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN.

MM-HMM.

MM-HMM.

BUT THAT'S GOOD, BECAUSE IF YOU CAN'T TELL WHAT IT IS,

THEN WHY BOTHER--YOU DON'T WANT TO STERILIZE THAT.

RIGHT.

YOU KNOW WHAT I'M SAYING?

YES.

WE ONLY HAD ONE POT IN MISSISSIPPI, THOUGH.

YOU'RE RIGHT. I KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU MEAN.

YOU ONLY... (laughs)

YOU ONLY HAD ONE WHAT?

ONE POT.

THAT IS THE-- THAT IS--

THAT SAYS IT ALL. THAT SAYS IT ALL.

YEAH. YOU KNOW, YOU--

YOU ONLY HAD ONE POT.

YEAH. FOR REAL.

THAT'S AWESOME.

DETROIT SOUL FOOD COMES IN MANY SHAPES AND SIZES.

THE GROOVIEST PLACE IN TOWN

IS CAFé D'MONGO'S SPEAKEASY.

THIS IS FANTASTIC.

ONLY IN A PLACE LIKE THIS ARE YOU GONNA SEE

THREE DIFFERENT TYPES OF MARTINI OLIVES,

FRESH LAVENDER, AND SHOTGUN SHELLS.

THIS IS A CROSS BETWEEN A GANGSTER BAR

AND LIBERACE'S BEDROOM.

THIS IS LARRY MONGO'S PLACE.

IT'S IN A PART OF TOWN MOST PEOPLE HAD GIVEN UP FOR LOST.

BUT LARRY DIDN'T GIVE UP.

AND THIS FUNKY LITTLE JOINT HAS BECOME A DESTINATION

FOR A NEW GENERATION OF DETROIT HIPSTERS.

LARRY COOKS WITH RECIPES HANDED DOWN

FROM HIS SOUTH CAROLINA FAMILY.

BUT THIS RECIPE IS LIKE NO SOUL FOOD I'VE EVER TRIED.

OH, MY GOD.

LOOK AT THIS.

IT'S A DUCK,

BUT THE FAT'S BEEN RENDERED AWAY IN MALTOSE BATHS

INFUSED WITH CINNAMON AND STAR ANISE,

THEN ROASTED, LEAVING A CRISP, PAPERY SKIN.

THE REST OF THE WORLD CALLS THIS PEKING DUCK,

BUT HERE...

MY GREAT-GRANDMOTHER

HANDED THIS DOWN.

SO I ALWAYS THOUGHT IT WAS SOUTH CAROLINA WILD DUCK,

AND I NAMED IT LEROY'S GRAVY.

UNTIL ABOUT 10, 12 YEARS AGO

A LADY CAME IN ONE OF THE RESTAURANTS,

AND SHE SAID, "YOU MAKE PEKING DUCK.

THAT'S PEKING DUCK." I'M LIKE, WHAT?

SHE SAID, "THAT'S PEKING DUCK."

I SAID, "NO, IT'S WILD DUCK."

SHE SAID, "NO, THAT'S PEKING DUCK."

LARRY'S BEST GUESS

IS THAT IMMIGRANT CHINESE LABORERS CROSSED PATHS

WITH MEMBERS OF HIS FAMILY,

AND THIS IS THE RESULT.

I EAT PEKING DUCK ALL OVER THE WORLD.

MM-HMM.

THIS IS GREAT PEKING DUCK.

IS IT REALLY?

OH, IT'S DELICIOUS.

I MEAN, I KNOW IT'S GOOD. I JUST DIDN'T KNOW

HOW IT COMPARED TO OTHER...

VERY, VERY HONEST AND AUTHENTIC

AND GOOD. MMM.

IT'S GORGEOUS.

OH.

I MEAN, THERE'S USUALLY 1/4 INCH OF FAT...

YES, YES.

BETWEEN THE MEAT, THE MUSCLE, AND THAT PAPERY SKIN.

AND HE'S JUST RENDERED IT ALL AWAY.

WE'VE TASTED UPTOWN.

WE'VE TOASTED RURAL.

FOR DESSERT WE'LL TRY SOMETHING HOMEY.

CHUCK RECOMMENDS MY SISTERS & ME.

BETTIE IS THE SISTER TAKING OUR ORDER.

IN ALL SERIOUSNESS, RIGHT, ARE THERE REALLY SISTERS?

THAT'S JUST A GIMMICK, RIGHT?

HONESTLY, THERE ARE FIVE SISTERS--

SAME MOTHER, SAME FATHER.

LOIS AND ANNIE HATTAWAY ARE THE SISTERS IN THE KITCHEN TODAY.

THEY COOK WITH FAMILY RECIPES

THEY LEARNED AS KIDS BACK HOME IN ALABAMA.

AND THEY'RE STILL BICKERING LIKE KIDS, TOO.

(Bettie) MY SISTERS CAN'T GET IT RIGHT.

(woman) THAT'S BECAUSE SHE DIDN'T GIVE IT TO US RIGHT.

I WAS WORRIED ABOUT MY ORDER

FROM THE MINUTES SHE SAT DOWN.

(laughter)

YOU SHOULD HAVE. YOU SHOULD HAVE.

HE DOESN'T BELIEVE WE'RE REALLY SISTERS.

NO, I-I DO NOW.

NOW YOU DO...

I DO NOW.

WHEN YOU PUT US ALL TOGETHER.

THE SISTERS SERVE UP THE USUAL SOUL FOOD FIXINGS

WITH THEIR OWN FAMILY STYLE.

AND LOIS AND BETTIE MAKE SOME CLASSIC SOUL FOOD DESSERTS.

WANT TO START A GOOD ARGUMENT IN THIS KITCHEN?

JUST ASK THIS QUESTION.

(Bettie) OKAY.

WHAT'S THE BEST DESSERT HERE?

I LIKE THE CARAMEL CAKE.

YOU LIKE THE CARAMEL CAKE.

YES.

RIGHT. DID YOU MAKE IT?

NO, ANNIE MAKES ALL THE CAKES.

WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE DESSERT HERE?

BANANA PUDDING.

THE COBBLER.

THE BANANA PUDDING.

THE COBBLER.

AND WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE DESSERT HERE?

THE COBBLER.

ALL OF 'EM!

AND DO YOU MAKE THE BANANA PUDDING?

I MAKE EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE COBBLER.

I DON'T EAT BANANA PUDDING.

YOU MAKE EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE COBBLER.

(voices overlapping)

THAT'S THE COBBLER.

IT IS TO DIE FOR.

LOOK AT IT.

NO, THE BANANA PUDDING IS.

BANANA PUDDING.

(voices overlapping)

I'VE GOT NEWS FOR YOU,

I THINK THIS MAY BE A 4- OR 5-DESSERT STOP.

OKAY.

THE CARAMEL CAKE REALLY IS EXCELLENT.

BUT THE REAL COMPETITION IS BETWEEN COBBLER

AND BANANA PUDDING.

(drumroll)

(laughs)

THAT'S INSANE.

AND YOU WANT TO KNOW SOMETHING? IT'S A PROPER COBBLER.

YEAH.

IT'S GOT TO BE SWIMMING

IN SUGAR, BUTTER, AND MORE PEACHES.

YEAH.

IT'S A JACUZZI FOR TREE-RIPENED FRUIT.

BUT WHEN ALL IS SAID AND DONE...

(laughs) DON'T CRY, ANDREW.

(laughter)

THE BANANA PUDDING WINS AGAIN.

IT WINS AGAIN. (laughs) WELL, THAT'S ANNIE.

DO YOU WANT TO KNOW SOMETHING?

THE BANANAS ARE RIPE. THE COOKIES ARE GREAT,

I MEAN, BUT THE PUDDING ITSELF IS JUST--

THE PUDDING ITSELF.

MY GOD.

HOME-STYLE BANANA PUDDING--

SILKEN, SWEET, WITH A CREAMY BOILED MILK AROMA

THAT I'VE ONLY EXPERIENCED A FEW TIMES IN MY LIFE.

I'M IN HEAVEN.

NOT HEAVEN, JUST ALABAMA--

IN DETROIT, A CITY GETTING NEW ENERGY

FROM PEOPLE BUILDING ON OLD FAMILY TRADITIONS.

SO THERE ARE ENCOURAGING SIGNS IN THIS TOWN,

WHETHER YOU'RE TALKING MOTOWN OR MOW-TOWN.

I'M HEADING OUT TO WORK WITH THE MOST ODDBALL YARD CREW

IN THIS OR ANY CITY.

OOH.

WHEN THEY STOP MOWING AND START COOKING,

THAT GETS PRETTY ODD, TOO.

FATTY, LITTLE, ROASTED, CARTILAGINOUS BITS

FROM THE BACK OF THE HEAD-- IT'S JUST FANTASTIC.

♪♪

IT'S SATURDAY AFTERNOON IN DETROIT,

A GREAT TIME TO BE GRILLING AT A LOCAL PARK.

BUT THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL INGREDIENTS.

(man) I'VE GOT A PIG HEAD FOR YOU.

AND THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL PARK GOERS.

ON SUMMER WEEKENDS, THESE GUYS COME TOGETHER TO COOK,

CLEAN UP, AND CUT THE GRASS

USING SOUPED-UP, TRICKED-OUT RIDING MOWERS.

WHERE DO YOU GUYS BUY THESE THINGS?

CRAIGSLIST, BABY.

CHEAP. WE GET 'EM CHEAP.

TOM NARDONE INVENTED THE DETROIT MOWER GANG

TO DO WHAT THE CITY CAN NO LONGER AFFORD TO DO--

MOW THE GRASS IN ITS PUBLIC PARKS.

TOM'S A GUY WHO'S MADE A BUSINESS

OUT OF FINDING UNORTHODOX SOLUTIONS.

HE RUNS AN INTERNET COMPANY

SELLING PRODUCTS PEOPLE WANT TO BUY,

BUT DON'T LIKE TO ADMIT THEY NEED.

PriveCo SELLS EVERYTHING FROM BACHELORETTE PARTY FAVORS

TO EDIBLE UNDERWEAR.

TOM'S GATHERED UP A GANG OF KINDRED SPIRITS.

THEY'VE GOT THEIR OWN EMBLEM, THEIR OWN STREET NAMES.

THIS IS "STUNTMAN MIKE."

THIS IS "DETROIT ANDY."

NICE GOGGLES, BY THE WAY.

THANK YOU.

NICE JUMPSUIT.

ARMY SURPLUS.

PEOPLE WITH A CREATIVE APPROACH TO WORK AND PLAY

ARE USUALLY PRETTY CREATIVE ABOUT FOOD, TOO.

TOM AND THE GANG DON'T JUST DO THE USUAL BURGERS AND DOGS.

THEY LIKE TO EXPERIMENT.

THIS WEEKEND, THE CHALLENGE THEY'VE SET THEMSELVES

IS TO COOK WITH INGREDIENTS MOST PEOPLE DON'T WANT TO TRY

AND DO IT IN A WAY THAT WOULD MAKE THEM

WANT TO COME BACK FOR MORE.

(Tom) THIS CAN GO IN THE SMOKER. IT'S A BEEF TONGUE.

(man) GORGEOUS. WE'LL GET IT RIGHT ON THERE.

YEAH.

DETROIT ANDY IS COMBINING THE GANG'S TWIN MISSIONS

OF GRASS CUTTING AND COOKING.

WHAT DO YOU GOT IN THERE?

UH, HAMBURGER MEAT

WITH BACON AND CHEDDAR CHUNKED INTO IT.

HAMBURGER MEAT

WITH BACON AND CHEDDAR CHUNKED INTO IT.

IT'S THE OLD "COOK YOUR LUNCH ON THE ENGINE MANIFOLD" TRICK.

I'M GONNA SAY, UH,

SEVEN, EIGHT MINUTES TO GET IT HOT THROUGH THE FOIL,

ANOTHER 10, 12 TO COOK IT,

SOMETHING LIKE THAT.

TOM INVITED ME OUT HERE TO TASTE

AND EVALUATE TODAY'S COOK-OFF, BUT HE DOESN'T WANT ME

TO MISS OUT ON THE MOWER RALLY, EITHER.

ALL RIGHT, THIS IS A BEAUTY.

TO GO FORWARD,

YOU PRESS THE PEDAL THAT LOOKS LIKE A GAS PEDAL...

UH-HUH.

AND TO GO BACKWARDS THIS ONE.

THIS ONE OVER HERE IS THE BRAKE.

BRAKE,

FORWARD, REVERSE.

YEP.

(engine revs)

DETROIT HAS 90 PUBLIC PARKS LIKE THIS REC CENTER,

BUT THE CITY ONLY HAS THE FUNDS TO MAINTAIN A FRACTION OF THEM.

DO WE GO OVER THERE TO THAT HIGH STUFF,

OR DO WE LEAVE THAT?

YEAH, WE CAN GO OVER THERE.

LET'S GO OVER THERE.

EVEN THOUGH IT'S MORE PLAY THAN WORK,

YOU DO HAVE TO KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN.

TEN GUYS MOWING OUT HERE,

AND ONLY ONE GETS HIS ROTOR CAUGHT IN THE WEEDS.

(loud squealing)

I HATE IT WHEN THAT HAPPENS.

SO LET ME GUESS...

SOMEONE'S SHOOTING SPARKS.

CLEARANCE IS AN ISSUE.

YEAH.

YEAH, I WOULD SAY.

I'M GLAD I DIDN'T HAVE MY MOWER ENGAGED.

THEY'RE NOT, UH, OH, YEAH, THAT IS GOOD.

WHEN THEY COME OUT HERE,

TOM AND HIS BUDDIES MOW BACKWARDS,

MOW IN FORMATION,

MOW EVERY WHICH WAY YOU CAN THINK OF.

AS THE WORK FINISHES UP, THE COOKING GETS SERIOUS--

AS SERIOUS AS THESE GUYS EVER GET.

MATT REISNER, STREET NAME "DRINKING BUDDY MATT,"

COOKED UP A RACCOON.

(Andrew) AND THEY THREW IT ALL IN, DIDN'T THEY?

(Tom) FROM THE ROOTER TO THE TOOTER.

THAT'S THE TAIL.

YEAH, THAT--REALLY?

YOU CAN ACTUALLY BUY THESE FRESH

AT DETROIT'S EASTERN MARKET FOR JUST 10 BUCKS APIECE.

(Matt) I BOILED IT FOR ABOUT A HALF-HOUR IN SALTWATER.

AND THEN I PUT IT IN THE OVEN

WITH RED WINE, CORIANDER...

YEP.

CUMIN.

MMM.

YOU ALMOST MANAGED TO ELIMINATE

THE HORRIBLE, HORRIBLE QUALITIES

OF CRITTER MEAT-- ALMOST.

COOKING A WILD ANIMAL TAKES PRACTICE.

YOU HAVE TO CLEAN, BLANCH, AND BRAISE IT BEFORE ROASTING

TO GET RID OF ITS GAMY FLAVOR. BUT AT LEAST IT'S A START.

WAS THIS YOUR FIRST RACCOON?

OH, YES. OH, YES.

HUGE UPS.

YEAH.

JEREMY BURGESS USED FAMILIAR INGREDIENTS

IN UNFAMILIAR WAYS.

THIS IS BEEF BRISKET, HOT DOGS, CANDIED RIBS

WRAPPED UP IN A TURKEY AND TOPPED WITH CHILI.

THAT'S SEXY RIGHT THERE.

(Andrew) IT--IT IS SEXY.

IT'S ALSO--THERE'S AN ELEMENT OF GENIUS TO IT.

PROFESSIONAL OPINION?

IT'S ONE OF THE MOST DISTURBING THINGS

I'VE EVER PUT IN MY MOUTH, AND I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT.

(laughter)

ALSO IN ALL SERIOUSNESS,

DO YOU WANT TO KNOW WHAT MAKES IT FLAVOR PROFILE-WISE?

WHAT'S THAT?

THE HOT DOG.

AND HERE'S THE FOOD DETROIT ANDY WAS COOKING

ON THE MANIFOLD OF HIS MOWER.

ALL RIGHT, SO NOW THIS IS THE BACON-CHEDDAR BURGER MEAT?

YEP, THE MOWER MEAT. THE MANIFOLD MEAT.

VERY NICELY DONE.

MOWER MANIFOLD MEAT LOAF.

I'M JUST DIGGING IN THERE, ALL RIGHT?

THAT'S ALL RIGHT.

I LIKE THAT. IT'S NOT DROWNING IN CUMIN AND CORIANDER AND...

MM-HMM.

HOT CHILIES. YOU CAN TASTE EVERYTHING IN THERE.

YOUR MANIFOLD MEAT IS PRETTY GOOD.

AS GANG LEADER,

TOM NARDONE SET HIMSELF A BIGGER CHALLENGE.

FIRST HE HAD TO FIND THIS PIG'S HEAD

AT DETROIT'S MEXICAN MARKET.

THEN HE SET IT GRILLING OVER INDIRECT HEAT

FOR ABOUT FIVE HOURS.

HOW'D I DO?

(Andrew) WHAT YOU REALLY WANT...

OKAY, YEAH, WHAT I REALLY WANT IS YOU TO TELL ME

WHAT I REALLY WANT.

IS JUST TO PEEL AWAY

AND EVERYBODY SORT OF EAT AWAY ALL THOSE GOOD PARTS.

'CAUSE I'VE GOT NEWS FOR YOU.

THIS STUFF RIGHT HERE..

YEAH.

FATTY, LITTLE, ROASTED, CARTILAGINOUS BITS

FROM THE BACK OF THE HEAD--

IS JUST FANTASTIC, RIGHT?

LOOK AT ALL THAT LITTLE STUFF AT THE BACK OF THE SKULL.

I LIKE THE CRUNCHY SKIN.

IT'S THE BEST.

SWINE, SWINE...

EW, WHAT'S THAT?

AND MORE SWINE.

DO YOU WANT TO KNOW SOMETHING? YOU DID A VERY NICE JOB.

THANKS.

SOME OF TODAY'S COOK-OFF

IS ABOUT DISCOVERING NEW THINGS,

SOME IS JUST ABOUT PLAYING AROUND WITH OLD STAND-BYS.

WHAT IT ALL HAS IN COMMON IS PEOPLE

GLEEFULLY REFUSING TO ACCEPT THE STATUS QUO.

NICE WORK.

THANK YOU, ANDREW.

CHANGING THE WORLD ONE VACANT LOT AT A TIME.

YEP.

HERE'S ANOTHER SIGN OF A CHANGING WORLD.

THERE'S A DETROIT SUBURB WHERE YOU CAN FIND

SOME OF THE BEST MIDDLE EASTERN PASTRY THIS SIDE OF DAMASCUS...

OH, MY GOODNESS.

AND FRESH RAW LIVER AT THE GROCERY STORE,

READY TO EAT,

AND A HOLIDAY DINNER THAT'S LIKE THANKSGIVING,

BUT WITH A STUFFED STOMACH INSTEAD OF TURKEY.

IT'S LIKE MEAT VASELINE. IT'S FANTASTIC.

(laughter)

♪♪

THE DETROIT SUBURB OF DEARBORN IS HOME

TO FORD'S WORLD HEADQUARTERS.

IT'S ALSO HOME TO THE MOST CONCENTRATED ARAB POPULATION

IN THE UNITED STATES.

IMMIGRANTS FROM LEBANON, YEMEN, AND IRAQ

HAVE BROUGHT NEW ENERGY AND VITALITY TO GREATER DETROIT

ALONG WITH CENTURIES-OLD TRADITIONS

THAT ARE NOW ASSIMILATED INTO AMERICAN LIFE.

DEARBORN'S MUSLIM COMMUNITY

BUILT THE LARGEST MOSQUE IN NORTH AMERICA.

IT'S A BEAUTIFUL SPIRITUAL OASIS

LINED WITH POSTERS FOR BAKE SALES,

BALL GAMES, AND HIGH SCHOOL MUSICALS.

I MEAN, THIS IS...

YEAH.

WELCOME TO AMERICA, BABY.

IT'S A WONDERFUL MERGING OF CULTURES.

RANA ABBAS IS A COMMUNICATIONS CONSULTANT.

SHE'S LEBANESE-AMERICAN,

STRADDLING THE OLD AND NEW WORLDS.

SHE'S INVITED ME TO CELEBRATE

ONE OF THE MOST FESTIVE DAYS OF THE YEAR WITH HER FRIENDS,

THE FINAL DAY OF RAMADAN.

FROM DEARBORN TO DAMASCUS, RAMADAN IS OBSERVED

THROUGHOUT THE MUSLIM WORLD AS THE HOLIEST MONTH OF THE YEAR.

THE DAYS ARE SPENT IN PRAYER, STUDYING THE KORAN,

AND FASTING.

AT SUNDOWN, FAMILY AND FRIENDS SHARE A CELEBRATORY MEAL

CALLED AN IFTAR.

THINK OF THIS AS THANKSGIVING TIMES 30.

ALL THROUGH THE DAY, MUSLIM FAMILY KITCHENS

HERE IN DEARBORN ARE BUSY PREPARING THE IFTAR.

RANA AND I ARE PICKING UP A FEW EXTRAS FOR TONIGHT.

YOU'RE GONNA LOVE THIS PLACE, ANDREW.

THIS IS UNLIKE ANY SUPERMARKET YOU'VE EVER SEEN.

OH, MY GOD, THE SMELL IS FANTASTIC.

SUPER GREENLAND MARKET

IS WHERE DEARBORN'S ARAB FAMILIES SHOP FOR GROCERIES.

LIKE THE MOSQUE, IT'S A BLEND OF MIDDLE EASTERN TRADITION

AND AMERICAN DAILY LIFE.

YOU CAN SMELL ALL THE MIDDLE EASTERN SWEET SPICES.

BUT LEST YOU FORGET THAT YOU'RE IN AMERICA--

BARBECUE SAUCE...

CHARCOAL...

AND CHARCOAL.

AND HEINZ KETCHUP.

OF COURSE, I'M EATING AS I GO...

MMM.

AND RANA IS GOING TO SNACK ALONG WITH ME.

MMM.

SHE JUST FLEW BACK HOME, AND FOR REASONS

DATING BACK TO THE DAYS OF MUHAMMAD,

TRAVELERS CAN BE EXEMPT FROM KEEPING THE RAMADAN FAST.

HERE'S WHERE THE AMERICAN GROCERY STORE

REALLY MORPHS INTO A LEBANESE MARKET STALL.

AT THE MEAT COUNTER, HALF A DOZEN BUTCHERS

ARE WORKING LIKE A TEAM OF ARTISTS,

TURNING OUT LITTLE MASTERPIECES OF MIDDLE EASTERN MEAT DISHES.

THE BUTCHERS ARE KEEPING THE RAMADAN FAST.

BUT EVEN IF THEY CAN'T EAT,

THEY'RE HAPPY TO SERVE SOMEONE WHO CAN.

HASSAN MOUSSA IS THE MASTER CRAFTSMAN HERE.

MOST LEBANESE PEOPLE LIKE EAT RAW MEAT.

SURE.

YEAH, SO WE HAVE, LIKE, MANY KIND OF RAW MEAT.

THERE IS SOMETHING, LIKE-- CALLED, LIKE, KOFTA.

KOFTA IS GROUND BEEF OR LAMB

MIXED WITH ONION, PARSLEY,

AND SPICES LIKE CUMIN AND CORIANDER.

KIBBEH NAYEH IS GROUND MEAT MIXED WITH WHEAT GRAIN

AND USUALLY SEASONED ONLY WITH SALT.

IT'S REMARKABLE WHAT A SKILLFUL BUTCHER CAN DO WITH MEAT

JUST BY THE WAY HE GRINDS IT, CHOPS IT,

AND INCORPORATES THE OTHER INGREDIENTS.

THIS IS BEEF TARTARE AT ITS VERY BEST.

THE MOUTHFEEL OF THIS AS YOU PUSHED IT

AND GRIND IT AND LIQUIDIZE THE FAT--AMAZING.

AND FOR SOMETHING EXTRA SPECIAL...

WOW.

(Rana laughs)

HASSAN MAKES ANOTHER RAW MEAT DISH BY HAND.

IT'S ALMOST LIKE A MEAT-CUTTING BALLET.

THERE IS NOT A SINGLE WASTED MOTION,

NOT AN EXTRA CHOP. HE KNOWS WHERE EVERYTHING IS.

WITH THE MINCED BEEF, HASSAN ADDS ONIONS

AND JALAPEÑOS--

LEBANON MEETS MEXICO IN MIDDLE AMERICA.

AND RANA'S TYPICALLY ALL-AMERICAN,

MIDWESTERN ATTITUDE ABOUT FOOD COMES OUT

IN THE ODDEST WAYS.

SHE'S SQUEAMISH ABOUT RAW MEAT.

I'M NOT GONNA GET SICK, AM I?

NO.

NO. BELIEVE ME, NO.

YEAH, OKAY.

GO AHEAD. GO AHEAD.

HERE GOES NOTHING. OKAY.

IT'S GOOD.

IT'S SPICY.

MMM.

RANA'S NOT LOOKING TOO IMPRESSED.

AND NOW THE STORE MANAGER IS STEPPING IN

WITH A MORE AMBITIOUS SUGGESTION.

(man) THIS STUFF IS PRETTY MUCH MAINSTREAM.

WHAT ABOUT THE RAW LIVER, MAN?

(voices overlapping)

OH, YEAH. NO, NO, BRING THAT ON.

BRING IT ON, BABY.

YEAH, PLEASE DON'T BRING THAT ON.

I LOVE RAW LIVER. IT'S MY FAVORITE--

AND RAW KIDNEYS.

THE RAW COW'S LIVER IS SLICED AND SERVED WITH CHILIES,

ONION, AND PLENTY OF FRESH, ASTRINGENTLY SWEET MINT.

OH, MY GOD, THAT LIVER IS SO BUTTERY,

AND YOU REALLY DO TASTE ALL THE MINERALS.

YOU GOTTA TRY THIS. YOU GOTTA TRY IT.

A TEENY, TEENY, TEENY...

YEAH, NO, NO, NO, NO, NO.

(man) YOU GOTTA TAKE ONE FOR HIS SHOW.

MY MOM NEVER WAS ABLE TO GET ME TO EAT IT.

(laughs)

(Andrew) HAPPY HOLIDAYS.

SHE'S TOO POLITE TO SAY IT, BUT IT'S CLEAR

THIS TASTE OF LEBANON DIDN'T GO DOWN WELL EITHER.

NEXT STOP--RANA WILL HAVE SOMETHING NEW FOR ME TO TRY.

WE'RE PICKING UP SOME TRADITIONAL HOLIDAY SWEETS

FOR TONIGHT AT THE MASRI BAKERY.

UP FRONT IT COULD BE ANY BAKERY IN ANY SUBURB.

IN BACK THERE'S A FAMILY-RUN OPERATION

LIKE YOU MIGHT SEE IN BEIRUT.

KHADER MASRI USES THE METHODS

HANDED DOWN FROM HIS GRANDFATHER

AND NOW BEING PASSED ALONG TO HIS SON.

MASRI SWEETS IS THE...

THE MASRI SWEETS.

THE SWEET SHOP...

(voices overlapping)

(speaking indistinctly)

AND I'M NOT JUST SAYING THAT BECAUSE MY UNCLE WORKS HERE.

OKAY.

WELL, MY COUSIN IS HERE.

WE LOOK-- WE LOOK--

YEAH, LOOK ALIKE.

WE LOOK GOOD.

THIS IS KATAIF

A SORT OF PANCAKE POPOVER FILLED WITH FRESH CHEESE,

BAKED, AND TOPPED WITH JUST A TOUCH OF SWEET SYRUP.

THESE ARE FRESH OUT OF THE OVEN.

(Rana) LOOK AT THAT.

(Andrew) OH, COME ON.

WOW.

THAT IS A BAKED CHEESE PANCAKE,

AND THE CHEESE THAT'S INSIDE THERE

IS SORT OF LIKE A SLIGHTLY MORE TART VERSION OF MOZZARELLA.

MM-HMM.

IT'S A FRESH CURD CHEESE. I BE THERE ARE PEOPLE

WHO HAVE BEEN EATING THESE FOR 30 YEARS

THAT HAVE NEVER HAD ONE STRAIGHT OUT OF THE OVEN HERE.

I NEVER HAVE, I CAN TELL YOU.

IT DOESN'T GET ANY BETTER THAN THIS.

ACTUALLY, IT MIGHT,

BECAUSE WE'VE STILL GOT THE KUNUFA TO TRY.

KUNUFA IS THE HOLIDAY TREAT FOR RAMADAN,

LIKE THE PUMPKIN PIE AT THANKSGIVING.

MASRI IS FAMOUS ALL OVER AMERICA

AS THE HOME OF THE KUNUFA,

SHIPPING THEM ALL AROUND THE COUNTRY.

IT STARTS WITH FINELY SPUN DOUGH.

IT'S BASICALLY JUST LIKE AN ANGEL HAIR PASTA.

(Andrew) YEAH.

THE DOUGH IS COMPRESSED AND COVERED

BY A THICK GOOEY LAYER OF CHEESE.

IT BAKES WITH THE CHEESE SIDE UP.

WHEN IT COMES OUT...

(Andrew) OH, GOD, LOOK AT THAT.

THE PASTRY SIDE IS FLIPPED UP TOP

AND GETS COATED WITH A CAREFULLY APPLIED GLOSS

OF THAT SWEET SYRUP.

AND FINALLY-- THE LAST BIT OF HEAT.

OH, COME ON.

OH, MY GOODNESS.

THIS IS NOT A PASTRY YOU CAN EAT WITH YOUR FINGERS,

ESPECIALLY WHEN IT'S

MELTING-CHEESE-HOT OFF THE STOVE.

THIS IS EXTRAORDINARY, REALLY EXTRAORDINARY.

(Khader) COMING FROM YOU, IT'S THE HIGHEST COMPLIMENT.

I KNOW.

THE THIN LAYER OF CRUNCH

THAT'S ACROSS THE TOP HERE...

MM-HMM.

IT'S CRISPY WITH THE SOFT CHEESE,

A LITTLE SALT FROM THE CHEESE,

A LITTLE SWEETNESS FROM THE SYRUP--

THIS IS ONE OF THE WORLD'S PERFECT FOODS,

YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?

WELL, SEE, THERE YOU GO.

MY GOD.

SUNDOWN IS JUST A FEW HOURS AWAY.

WHEN NIGHT FALLS, THE FEASTING BEGINS IN HOMES

ALL OVER TOWN, AND I'M INVITED INSIDE

TO ENJOY SPICED TONGUE AND STUFFED LAMB'S STOMACH.

MORE TREATS FOR ME,

MORE HEARTBURN FOR MY FRIEND RANA.

FROM THERE I'LL BE EXPLORING AN ISLAND WITHIN DETROIT

WHERE YOU CAN TASTE THE WORLD IN JUST 2 SQUARE MILES...

WHEW.

AND A WHOLE PIG'S HEAD IN JUST ONE DELICIOUS BITE.

THE CHEEKS HERE JUST EXPLODE WITH PORKY FLAVOR.

AND THEN THE LITTLE BITS OF EAR AND NOSE

HAVE A MUCH DIFFERENT FLAVOR.

♪♪

IT'S LATE AFTERNOON IN DEARBORN, MICHIGAN,

ON THE FINAL DAY OF RAMADAN.

MUSLIM FAMILIES ARE PREPARING THE IFTAR,

A FEAST THAT COMES AFTER A FULL DAY OF FASTING.

I'VE GOT AN INVITATION TO ONE OF THESE LAVISH MEALS,

BUT FIRST I NEED TO MAKE ONE MORE STOP.

AL-AJAMI IS A FAMILY-RUN RESTAURANT

WHERE YOUSSEF AJAMI AND HIS SON ALI

STOCK THE MENU WITH TRADITIONAL LEBANESE FAVORITES

MADE WITH FAMILY RECIPES.

AND THEY'RE FAMOUS FOR MAKING DEARBORN'S BEST VERSION

OF THAT LEBANESE CLASSIC...

OH.

THE LAMB BRAIN SANDWICH.

THANK YOU, GENTLEMEN.

(Youssef) NO PROBLEM.

THANK YOU.

IT'S VERY NICE. BY THE WAY, THIS GUY NOT ONLY HAS

THE GREATEST MUSTACHE IN DEARBORN, MICHIGAN...

THANK YOU.

BUT HE ALSO CAN WEAR

THREE PAIRS OF EYEGLASSES AT THE SAME TIME...

(laughter)

ONE ON THE HEAD, ONE DANGLING,

AND THEN ONE HERE JUST IN CASE ONE OF THE OTHER TWO GETS LOST.

(laughter)

THE BRAINS ARE BRAISED IN BAY LEAVES, CURRY, AND ONION

AND SEASONED WITH LEMON JUICE, GARLIC, AND SALT.

THEY'RE SERVED UP WITH PICKLED VEGETABLES AND LETTUCE,

ROLLED IN LEBANESE FLATBREAD.

SOMETHING LIKE THIS THAT'S KIND OF CREAMY AND VERY MINERALLY

WITH THE TOMATO AND THE PICKLED TURNIPS,

PARSLEY-- JUST THE PERFECT COMBINATION.

OH, HO HO.

OH, HO HO, JUST A LITTLE DUNKY-DUNK IN THERE.

AND LEMON,

'CAUSE I LOVE LEMON WITH BRAINS.

IT'S GOOD.

I'M SURE IT IS.

GOOD?

THAT'S DELICIOUS.

SEE, I'M WAITING FOR THE EXPLANATION.

(laughs)

IT IS CREAMY AND DELICIOUS AND FANTASTIC.

AND YOU WOULD NEVER EVEN KNOW THAT YOU'RE TRYING...

A BRAIN--THERE'S NOTHING OFF-PUTTING ABOUT THIS AT ALL,

NOTHING LIKE IT.

AND I-I WOULD NOT LEAD YOU DOWN THE GARDEN PATH

OF SOMETHING HORRIFIC.

ALL RIGHT, I WILL TRY THIS.

MMM. OH.

WOW.

THERE WE GO.

MMM.

PLUS YOU'LL BE A LOT SMARTER AFTER YOU EAT THAT.

ISN'T THAT NICE?

SHE'S TOO POLITE TO SAY IT, BUT CLEARLY THE ANSWER IS NO.

THAT WAS FOR YOU.

I LOVE YOU. THANK YOU.

THAT WAS VERY, VERY SWEET OF YOU.

(laughs)

AS THE SUN SETS,

WE CAN FINALLY HEAD FOR THE FAMILY HOME

OF RANA'S FRIEND, ALI HAIDOUS,

WHERE WE'RE BOTH INVITED TO THE FAMILY IFTAR.

(Rana) KNOCK KNOCK.

(Ali H.) HELLO.

INSIDE IT'S A TYPICAL FAMILY GATHERING...

PARENTS, CHILDREN, AUNTS, UNCLES, AND COUSINS,

PEOPLE STANDING AROUND CHATTING,

FOOTBALL GAME ON IN THE BACKGROUND,

WAITING FOR DINNERTIME.

THIS IS THE HOME OF ALI AND AMANE.

BUT AMANE'S MOTHER IS HOSTING THE IFTAR.

ALL DAY LONG SHE'S BEEN SUPERVISING THE PREPARATION

OF A TRULY MAMMOTH TRADITIONAL LEBANESE MEAL.

IMAN KARAALI LEFT LEBANON WITH HER HUSBAND

WHEN SHE WAS ONLY 16.

32 YEARS LATER WITH 5 CHILDREN

AND A MASTER'S DEGREE IN EDUCATION,

COOKING TRADITIONAL MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD

IS A PASSION FOR HER.

SOME OF TONIGHT'S HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE KROUSH,

WHICH IS STUFFED LAMB'S STOMACH,

A SALAD OF RAW HERBS AND DANDELIONS,

AND ABOUT A DOZEN OTHER DISHES INCLUDING KIBBEH,

KOFTA, AND OTHER LEBANESE RAW MEAT FAVORITES,

AND SPICY LAMB'S TONGUE.

UNLIKE RANA AND ME, EVERYONE IN THIS FAMILY

HAS BEEN STRICTLY OBSERVING THE FAST.

THE COOKS DON'T EVEN GET TO TASTE WHAT THEY'RE COOKING.

SO NO ONE DAWDLES WHEN IT'S FINALLY TIME TO EAT.

EAT AS MUCH AS YOU WANT.

OH, ARE YOU KIDDING ME?

YOU DON'T HAVE TO ASK ME TWICE.

(laughter)

THE LAMB'S TONGUE HAS BEEN BRAISED FOR HOURS

IN CUMIN, CINNAMON, ONIONS, AND LEMON.

I CANNOT GET MY FRIENDS TO TRY SOME OF THIS KIND OF STUFF.

AND I TELL THEM--I SAY, ALL I SMELL THERE IS THE HERBS

AND THAT JUST DELICIOUS, YUMMY, MEATY GOODNESS

THAT'S IN THERE. OH, IT'S HEAVEN.

AND IT MELTS IN YOUR MOUTH,

'CAUSE IT'S BEEN BRAISED FOR SO LONG.

IT'S JUST... OH, MY.

BEAUTIFULLY COOKED. IT'S STUNNING.

YOU DON'T WANT THE STOMACH?

I DO WANT THE STOMACH.

YOU SEE THIS LITTLE SPACE THAT I HAVE THERE?

(laughter)

THE LAMB'S STOMACH IS STUFFED WITH RICE,

GROUND BEEF, AND SPICES, SEWN SHUT,

AND BOILED FOR HOURS WITH ONIONS AND CINNAMON.

IT'S DELICIOUS. IT JUST MELTS IN YOUR MOUTH.

IT'S LIKE MEAT VASELINE. IT'S FANTASTIC.

(laughter)

IT'S A DISH THAT TAKES A LOT OF TENDER LOVING CARE

TO GET ABSOLUTELY RIGHT.

OH.

THESE ARE SOME OF MY FAVORITE FOODS

IN THE WHOLE WORLD,

BUT I'VE NEVER HAD THE OPPORTUNITY

TO HAVE THEM COOKED

BY A REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY GOOD COOK

IN HER HOME.

(woman) MADE WITH LOVE.

OH, MY GOD.

(Rana) THERE YOU GO.

THIS COULD BE ANY HOLIDAY MEAL

WITH ANY AMERICAN FAMILY--

TALKING ABOUT FOOD, SHARING FAMILY STORIES,

WHILE THE GUYS GET ANTSY TO GO BACK AND WATCH SOME FOOTBALL.

IT'S ONLY THE FOOD ON THE TABLE THAT'S A LITTLE DIFFERENT.

AND THAT'S FINE BY ME.

NICE JOB.

(woman) KUDOS.

CHEERS.

CHEERS.

(laughter)

THANK YOU FOR HAVING ME TONIGHT.

IT'S WONDERFUL TO SHARE THE HOLIDAY WITH YOU.

THANK YOU FOR COMING.

THE ARAB COMMUNITY HERE IN DEARBORN

IS ONE OF MANY IMMIGRANT STORIES

SHAPING THE NEW DETROIT.

IT'S WHY I'M ABOUT TO DISCOVER A PLACE

WHERE LAMB KIDNEY COMES ON A SUB ROLL WITH KETCHUP

AND PIZZA COMES WITH DRIED FISH

AND AT LEAST ONE INGREDIENT I'LL WISH I'D LEFT ALONE.

THAT WAS ONE OF THE STUPIDEST THINGS I'VE EVER DONE.

(laughter)

♪♪

HAMTRAMCK IS A SMALL TOWN THAT'S AN ISLAND,

SURROUNDED ON ALL SIDES BY DETROIT,

AND IT'S THE MOST INTERNATIONALLY DIVERSE TOWN

IN MICHIGAN.

41% OF THE PEOPLE HERE ARE FOREIGN-BORN.

THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS TEACH KIDS

IN 26 DIFFERENT LANGUAGES.

AND WHERE THERE'S A WORLD OF PEOPLE,

THERE'S A WORLD OF FLAVORS.

MAYOR KAREN MAJEWSKI IS A SUPREME AMBASSADOR

FOR HER HOMETOWN,

WITH A PhD IN IMMIGRATION STUDIES

AND A GREAT PRIDE IN HAMTRAMCK'S DIVERSITY.

WHEN SOMEONE SAYS TO YOU, HEY, SUM IT ALL UP FOR ME.

WHAT DOES HAMTRAMCK MEAN TO YOU?

THE WORLD IN 2.-- 2.1 SQUARE MILES.

YOU CAN READ THE WHOLE IMMIGRANT HISTORY

OF THIS REGION ON ITS STREETS AND ON ITS MENUS.

IT STARTS WITH THE POLES.

THIS IS REALLY OLD-WORLD QUALITY AT ITS BEST.

POLISH IMMIGRANTS FLOCKED HERE EARLY IN THE 20th CENTURY

WHEN THE FIRST CAR MAKERS OPENED FACTORIES.

BY MID-CENTURY,

90% OF HAMTRAMCK'S RESIDENTS WERE POLISH.

TODAY AT 22%,

THEY'RE STILL HAMTRAMCK'S LARGEST ETHNIC GROUP.

AND THE TASTE OF EASTERN EUROPE IS EVERYWHERE,

WHICH IS WHY YOU FIND AMAZING FOOD

AT A DELI LIKE SRODEK'S.

I LOVE HEAD CHEESE,

AND I LOVE, UH, TONGUE.

SO CAN WE HAVE A COUPLE SLICES OF THE TONGUE,

THE SPICY, AND THE BLOOD?

YES.

YEAH, I HATE TO TELL YOU, ANDREW,

BUT I CAN'T EAT ANY OF THAT.

I DON'T EAT ANYBODY'S HEAD CHEESE,

BECAUSE I'M A VEGETARIAN.

POOR, POOR WOMAN. I FEEL SO SORRY FOR YOU.

SRODEK'S IS FAMILY OWNED

AND OPERATED WITH RECIPES

THAT HAVE BEEN PASSED DOWN FOR GENERATIONS.

HERE YOU GO. I HAVE THE SPICY HEAD CHEESE FOR YOU.

AHH.

THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.

NOW HERE I HAVE OUR HOMEMADE JELLIED PIG'S FEET.

THE PIG'S FEET HAVE BEEN BRAISED, PULLED,

AND THEN LAID INTO A LOAF AND CHILLED.

AND ALL THAT COLLAGEN

TURNS THE LIQUID INTO A LOVELY ASPIC WHEN IT'S CHILLED.

AMAZING.

(Andrew) WOW.

THAT'S THE BEST PIG'S FOOT JELLY I'VE EVER HAD.

THANKS.

AND LOOK AT ALL THE SHREDDED MEAT

FROM THOSE PIG'S FEET-- NO GRISTLE,

NO BONE, ALL THE WORK DONE FOR YOU.

AND THE MEAT ON THE FOOT IS SOME OF THE BEST THERE IS

ON THE WHOLE ANIMAL.

IT'S JUST REALLY HARD TO WADE THROUGH A COUPLE OF PIG'S TOES

AND ABOUT 75 LITTLE BONES.

THE HEAD CHEESE IS MADE FROM PIG'S CHEEK,

TONGUE, AND SNOUT.

SO CAN YOU TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN, LIKE,

THE EAR AND THE TONGUE AND...

ABSOLUTELY. ABSOLUTELY.

THE CHEEKS HERE JUST EXPLODE WITH PORKY FLAVOR.

AND THEN THE LITTLE BITS OF EAR AND NOSE AND STUFF

ARE FATTIER AND HAVE A MUCH DIFFERENT,

SORT OF RICHER FLAVOR PROFILE.

OH, MY GOSH.

THE TASTE OF POLAND IS STILL VERY STRONG IN HAMTRAMCK.

BUT THERE ARE NEW FLAVORS IN TOWN THESE DAYS.

THE LATEST WAVE OF IMMIGRANTS ARE COMING FROM THE ARAB WORLD.

MANY ARE STILL FIRST GENERATION,

WHO GREW UP AND LEARNED TO COOK IN THEIR NATIVE COUNTRY.

SHEEBA WAS OPENED BY A YEMENI FAMILY

WHO ARRIVED IN 1969.

IT'S INTERESTING THAT OUR MIDDLE EASTERN POPULATION,

UNLIKE SOME OTHER PLACES WHERE IT'S A MIXTURE...

SURE.

OF FOLKS FROM ALL OVER THE MIDDLE EAST...

SURE.

HERE IT'S PRETTY HOMOGENEOUS, FROM YEMEN.

RIGHT.

ONE OF THE HOUSE SPECIALTIES IS AN ARAB CLASSIC--

LAMB KIDNEY.

THE KIDNEY IS CUT INTO SMALL PIECES,

THEN COMBINED WITH ONIONS, SCALLIONS, GARLIC,

AND OTHER SPICES.

IN YEMEN, THIS WOULD BE SERVED ON PITA BREAD.

IN AMERICA, IT'S LAMB KIDNEY

ON A TOASTED SUB ROLL.

RANCH DRESSING AND KETCHUP,

WHICH YOU HAVE TO SERVE

WITH EVERY KIDNEY SUB, ABSOLUTELY.

THE BREAD AND THE CONDIMENTS ARE AMERICANIZED.

THE MAIN INGREDIENT IS NOT.

MAN, THAT'S AWESOME.

I'M A NUT FOR LIVER AND ONIONS,

KIDNEY AND ONIONS, AND THIS IS JUST THE BOMB.

AND WHEN IT'S CUT UP LIKE THAT,

IT'S GOT JUST ENOUGH MINERALLY-NESS

TO TELL YOU IT'S AN ORGAN MEAT,

BUT IT MOSTLY TASTES LIKE THAT SCORCHED BIT OF CHICKEN SKIN

FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN.

TAKE A SPATULA AND SCRAPE THAT GOOK OFF AND EAT IT--

THAT'S WHAT THIS TASTES LIKE.

AFTER THE EASTERN EUROPEANS AND ARABS,

THE LARGEST ETHNIC GROUP HERE IS FROM SOUTH ASIA,

ESPECIALLY BANGLADESH.

AMAR PIZZA IS A GREAT EXAMPLE OF THE WAY DETROIT'S NEWCOMERS

ADAPT TO AND EXPAND AMERICA'S CUISINE.

I MEAN, IT'S A PIZZA PARLOR

WHERE THE INGREDIENTS TASTE OF A BANGLADESHI MARKET.

HERE AT LEAST, THE MAYOR CAN FINALLY JOIN IN.

IF I'M BRAVE ENOUGH.

(woman) AND THIS IS YOUR VEGETARIAN.

RIGHT.

OKAY, THAT ONE'S DEFINITELY MINE.

YEAH, THAT'S DEFINITELY YOURS, BECAUSE I-I WON'T EAT THAT.

WHAT I CAN EAT IS THE DRIED FISH PIZZA.

THIS IS ABOUT 3 1/2 POUNDS OF DRIED FISH

MIXED WITH A HANDFUL OF ANCHOVIES

AND A LITTLE BIT OF OIL FROM A TUNA CAN

ALL SCHMEARED ON TOP OF HERE.

FISH IS THE CORNERSTONE OF BANGLADESH'S CUISINE.

THERE'S ALSO SHRIMP

AND A PASTE MADE OF SMALL FISH, ONIONS, GARLIC,

AND GREEN CHILIES.

THIS IS MORE LIKE A FANTASTIC FLATBREAD KIND OF THING

THAT YOU WOULD GET IN SOME LITTLE FISHING VILLAGE...

MM-HMM.

IN SOME FAR-OFF PART OF THE WORLD.

THIS IS AMAZING. MMM.

THIS IS GREAT.

AMAR PIZZA IS RUN BY THE FOUR AHMED BROTHERS.

THEY MIX FAMILIAR PIZZA INGREDIENTS

WITH A DASH OF BANGLADESH'S BENGALI-STYLE COOKING,

LIKE SCORCHING-HOT CHILIES.

THIS IS THEIR GHOST PEPPER PIZZA.

WELL, I'M A LITTLE SCARED TO TRY THIS.

WELL, THIS IS THE HOTTEST PEPPER KNOWN TO MAN.

IF YOU'RE NOT USED TO CHILIES OR THE ACID THAT'S IN THEM...

UM...

THEY CAN SOMETIMES MAKE YOUR MOUTH BLISTER.

YEAH, I'M NOT SURE YOU WANT THAT.

REALLY?

DO YOU LIKE SPICY FOOD?

UH... NO.

DON'T EAT THAT.

OKAY.

I CAN SMELL IT--

I CAN SAY THAT IT'S DELICIOUS.

I CAN SMELL IT. I MEAN, IT'S--

THIS IS AWESOME.

HERE'S THE THING ABOUT GHOST PEPPERS.

WHEN YOU EAT ONE, IT'S REALLY HOT,

BUT THAT'S JUST THE BEGINNING.

GHOST CHILIES GROW IN HEAT.

I MEAN, IT JUST KEEPS GROWING, GROWING,

GROWING, GROWING, GROWING,

AND IT'S STILL GROWING.

THE ENTIRE INSIDE OF MY MOUTH...

WOW.

I NOW HAVE A SPATIAL AWARENESS OF MY MOUTH

THAT I DID NOT HAVE BEFORE.

WOW.

THAT IS HARDCORE PIZZA.

MMM.

WHEW. WOW.

THAT IS CRAZY.

I'M SWEATING, AND MY MOUTH'S ON FIRE.

WHEW.

WOW.

YOU KNOW SOMETHING?

THAT WAS ONE OF THE STUPIDEST THINGS I'VE EVER DONE.

(laughs)

SO I DON'T KNOW THAT I CAN RECOMMEND

THE GHOST PEPPER PIZZA,

BUT I CAN RECOMMEND THE EXPERIENCE

OF TASTING THE WORLD IN 2.1 SQUARE MILES.

I CAN ALSO RECOMMEND SPENDING SATURDAYS

AT THE BIGGEST FARMERS' MARKET IN NORTH AMERICA.

NOT WHAT YOU MIGHT EXPECT IN DETROIT, RIGHT?

JUST LIKE YOU DON'T EXPECT PURéED BEANS IN THE PIE...

AND THIS IS BEAN CUSTARD?

BEAN CUSTARD.

OR PIG'S NOSE IN THE BARBECUE.

YOU WILL LOVE THE LITTLE CRISPY BITS

OF SMOKED GRILLED NOSE.

♪♪

THE STORY MOST PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT DETROIT IS THIS--

BIG INDUSTRY GAVE LIFE TO THE CITY,

AND WHEN THE INDUSTRY TANKED, IT TOOK THE CITY DOWN WITH IT.

THE NEW STORY IS THIS-- INDIVIDUALS AND COMMUNITIES

ARE GIVING LIFE TO THE CITY BY HANGING ON TO WHAT THEY LOVE

OR CREATING SOMETHING NEW.

HERE'S A GOOD PLACE TO SHOW YOU WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT--

DETROIT'S EASTERN MARKET.

40,000 PEOPLE COME THROUGH HERE EACH WEEK,

MAKING THIS THE LARGEST FARMERS' MARKET IN AMERICA.

EASTERN MARKET STARTED IN THE 1890s

AS AN ADJUNCT TO THE FOOD WHOLESALER WAREHOUSES

IN THIS NEIGHBORHOOD.

SOME OF THOSE ARE NOW OUT OF BUSINESS.

KAPS MEAT IS STILL GOING STRONG...

SELLING OVER 7 MILLION POUNDS OF MEAT A YEAR,

SHIPPING ALL OVER THE MIDWEST BEEF, PORK, AND POULTRY.

ON MARKET DAYS,

ERIC GROSINGER AND HIS TEAM

THROW A HOG ON THE GRILL FOR PASSERS BY--

AND WE'RE TALKING THE WHOLE HOG.

OH, MY GOODNESS. THIS IS BEAUTIFUL.

I REALLY CAN'T RESIST-- DO YOU MIND?

(Eric) THE SNOOT? YOU CAN KNOCK YOURSELF OUT WITH THE SNOOT.

FIRST OF ALL, THIS LITTLE AREA RIGHT IN THE FRONT HERE

IS YUMMY,

BUT IT'S NOT EVEN THE BEST PART OF IT.

IT'S ALL THIS LITTLE MEAT AND FAT

ON THE SIDE AND ON THE INSIDE.

WITH A LITTLE HAIR ON IT.

IF YOU LIKE PORK BELLY,

YOU WILL LOVE THE LITTLE CRISPY BITS

OF SMOKED GRILLED NOSE.

KAPS IS AN ENDURING TRADITION.

CORRIDOR SAUSAGE IS A CREATIVE INNOVATION.

TWO GUYS, ZACHARY KLEIN AND WILL BRANCH,

QUIT THEIR RESTAURANT JOBS WITH THE IDEA

THEY COULD BRING HANDCRAFTED MEATS INTO THE DETROIT MARKET,

MAKING AND SELLING VIETNAMESE CHICKEN SAUSAGE--

THAT'S CHICKEN WITH LEMONGRASS--

OR PORK AND GREEN CURRY SAUSAGE WITH MANGO SALSA

AND THIS RUSTIC COUNTRY TERRINE.

(Will) IT'S PORK, PORK LIVERS, CHERRIES,

SOME CASHEWS THAT WE SMOKED OFF.

UH-HUH.

MMM.

IT'S A GORGEOUS TERRINE, BUT IT EATS MORE LIKE A COLD CUT,

AND I MEAN THAT IN A COMPLIMENTARY WAY.

RIGHT.

IT'S TOOTHSOME, AND IT'S DELICIOUS...

THANK YOU.

AND IT'S STURDY.

THERE ARE 290 VENDORS IN THIS MARKET,

AND IT TURNS OUT QUITE A FEW ARE SMALL BUSINESSES

SPRINGING UP IN COMMUNITIES HERE. SURPRISED?

IT'S JUST THAT FOR A LOT OF YEARS,

DETROIT WAS HAVING SOME ROCKY TIMES.

MM-HMM.

I WALK IN HERE, AND I'M LIKE, ARE YOU KIDDING ME?

RIGHT.

THIS FEELS LIKE A COMMUNITY ON THE MOVE...

MM-HMM.

AND--AND GOING PLACES.

PEOPLE JUST WANT TO MAKE A LIVING FOR THEMSELVES.

WE DON'T WANT TO DEPEND ON WORKING FOR A LARGE CORPORATION.

THERE'S A WONDERFUL DIVERSITY

AMONG THE PEOPLE AND BUSINESSES SPROUTING IN THIS MARKET.

AND A LOT OF THE FOOD YOU FIND HERE

COMES FROM ACROSS THE COUNTRY AND AROUND THE WORLD.

DONNIE LOVE CREATED A BUSINESS

OUT OF THE BAKING SKILLS SHE LEARNED

IN HER MOTHER'S KITCHEN IN ARKANSAS.

NOW SHE AND HER HUSBAND ALLEN OPERATE LOVE'S CUSTARD PIES.

SHE DOES SUPERB VERSIONS OF FAMILIAR FAVORITES

LIKE CHESS PIE...

(Andrew) IT'S LIKE A PUDDLE

OF THICKENED VANILLA SCRAMBLED EGG IN THERE

IN THE BEST POSSIBLE WAY.

AND THAT CRUST IS FANTASTIC.

AND PIES THAT ARE NOT SO FAMILIAR.

AND THIS IS BEAN CUSTARD?

BEAN CUSTARD.

MMM.

THAT IS AMAZING. I'VE NEVER EATEN THIS BEFORE.

AND THE--THE PURéE OF BEAN IS IN THERE--

I MEAN, IT JUST STABILIZES THE CUSTARD

AND GIVES IT A GREAT SILKY TEXTURE.

AND IT'S ESSENTIALLY LIKE A BROWN SUGAR CUSTARD.

THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I'VE EVER EATEN.

IT'S CRAZY.

I'M NOT BLOWING SMOKE. YOU'RE UNBELIEVABLE.

DETROIT HAS SOME OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC-TASTING

SOUTHERN FOOD IN AMERICA,

AND SOME OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC ITALIAN PIZZA.

SAUCE, PROSCIUTTO, EGG--

TODAY I'M VERY LUCKY--

FARM FRESH DUCK EGG.

DAVID MANCINI OPENED SUPINO'S JUST A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO

AMONG THE CLUSTER OF EATERIES AT THE EDGE OF EASTERN MARKET.

IT'S NAMED AFTER THE SMALL TOWN IN ITALY

WHERE HIS DAD CAME FROM

AND SERVES A NORTHERN ITALIAN SPECIALTY

I CALL PIZZA BISMARCK.

THIS IS THE WAY

YOU EAT A PIZZA BISMARCK.

FIRST BITE HAS TO BE ONE OF THE PIECES OF CRUST

DIPPED IN THE YOLK-- ALWAYS, END OF DISCUSSION.

PIZZA TOPPED WITH A DUCK EGG

IS A LITTLE OUT OF THE ORDINARY FOR MOST AMERICANS.

OH.

AND THERE ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE OUT THERE

WHO THINK FOR SOME REASON THIS ISN'T A TRADITIONAL PIZZA,

BUT IT'S MORE TRADITIONAL THAN ANYTHING THAT YOU'RE BUYING

OUT OF YOUR GROCER'S OR SUPERMARKET FREEZER.

I CAN TELL YOU THAT.

AUTHENTICITY, DURABILITY, CREATIVITY--

WHAT YOU FIND HERE AT THE MARKET

AND IN POCKETS THROUGHOUT THE CITY GIVES REASON TO HOPE

DETROIT IS DEFINITELY ON ITS WAY UP.

BUT IT WON'T BE BIG INDUSTRY THAT MAKES IT HAPPEN.

IT WILL BE A NETWORK OF SMALL, PROUD COMMUNITIES

CARING FOR EACH OTHER AND THEIR CITY

AND SMALL ENTREPRENEURS WITH EXCITING THINGS TO OFFER.

IF DETROIT WERE A STOCK, I'D BE BUYING.

AND REMEMBER, WHEN YOU'RE IN THE MOTOR CITY,

IF IT LOOKS GOOD, EAT IT.

♪♪

The Description of Detroit