This video contains a lot of welding. So if you don't know that your display can't transmit ultraviolet and infrared radiation,
we advise you to close your eyes or put on a welding helmet.
Art of the Hammer: Behind The Scenes
Greetings. If you want to be a blacksmith, three main tools are required.
Firstly, the place where you can heat up the billet - the furnace.
Secondly, the forging place - the anvil.
And the tool that you can use TO forge something - some hammers.
If the 2nd and the 3rd is okay, we still have problems with the furnace.
I've been working on the gas furnaces for the last few years. It's not because they're so good. It's because the tasks I have to solve are easier with the small gas furnace.
But when we started the replicas' production show, we found out that gas forge is not enough.
So, today's topic is very interesting. We will make the big coal forge.
We will draw inspiration from the Vladimir Turyagin's forge from the city of Sebezh.
You can see on the photo that the forge is made out of brick. It's not that it's the right construction.
It's all goes out of the thing that when he was building the workshop, he had a lot of bricks and men to help.
Every coal furnace consists of the table...
with a heating system.
This is usually a plate with holes, the fan is lower than it, it pumps air. The blowing should be placed beneath, but we'll make it on the side.
This is Ilya's advice we received while making Ciri's Sword.
So when you make the Damascus steel, when steel pours with the scale and in heating process, it flows down...
The blowing nozzles are not clogging.
Above the furnace there is an exhaust hood. Its task is to remove the combustion products to make it comfortable to work.
As a rule, it's the hood with a tube. We'll make the natural ventilation duct.
As it is in opened fireplaces, roughly speaking. I mean the tube's diameter is so big so the smoke can be removed completely.
We have a lot of such sheet metal pieces after our production. We will take them for pillars.
In order to set all sizes at once, we'll make patterns.
We'll clamp the pipes at the edges with a certain distance between them. We'll rest the corners in them.
The supports are ready. Now we must set the corners with sheets and weld them together.
Then we should place 2 sides on their edges and weld other 2 sides on.
The last side will be welded where I can reach.
Then I'll flip the table and make the tacks on the outside. This will be the back side.
It will be under the furnace, so you can't see the tacks.
Between the plates we have this connecting strip. We'll cover it with such a stripe.
And weld through the drilled hole.
So, the pillars are finished, now we move to the table making. We'll take the 100 tube for the framing. This framework will never bend under the stress and heating.
The experience tells me that if you take something relatively thin, 40-60mm,
for example, our portable furnace, which is outside right now, was curved after a year of exploitation. Maybe not as bad as I show, but nonetheless.
We want to avoid it, to make everything nice and massive.
The table sizes will be 1.1x1.7m
We will cut this tube. Cuts will be made with a 45 degrees angle to join the pipes without extra plugs.
Now we cut the diagonal side. The first is marked and the second will...
be marked at the end.
So, what do we have now? Two sides are ready, we'll lay them out.
Great! The cut is even, the welding will be fast. It remains to do one more pair... and we can go welding!
Probably you noticed that in every our video we use the Bort company tool.
That's not a commercial. Unfortunately. We would like that but no.
A year and a half ago the Bort company contacted with me to ask me to make a review of their electric tool.
They send me a disc grinder, a welding set, a polisher and a perforator.
We'll touch the grinder because it is worth attention. This is the BWS-1200 model.
1200 watt is claimed. I like the grip, and it's very small and light in comparison with pro-grinders.
The firm claims that it is the household tool, not professional. The difference between the household and professional tools is that cheaper materials are used in household ones.
And as the tool used less frequently, it gets out of order less frequently.
But, to my surprise, we use this disc grinder every day, for 4-6 hours without turning off. And none of them got out of order.
I can't recommend these disc grinders for huge manufacturing but if you have a small workshop, a garage, a cottage or you want to buy it for household use...
it's the only option I can suggest to you. And if you search it on Internet, you will be pleased by its price.
We has cut the tube. You can see, I laid out it as the framing should be. Now we must weld it all together.
The welding is very useful but tricky thing.
If we make the solid seam, the metal will twist itself while cooling down, because of retraction.
To make it properly, firstly, you need to set up the construction as it should be assembled.
And with clamps we press it to the table. We welded up a hard table, we weren't lazy and spent some time to set it on the level, to avoid any rolls or turns.
In such conditions we can assemble steady things and be sure that it won't twist itself.
Now when we have fixed sides, we place the tack from the inside.
Firstly, we set one tack to make the construction mobile, so we can check the geometry and correct it.
We set one tackle per corner. But that's not enough for hardness.
So we should set tacks on each side from the underside.
Great, we set the tacks on each side. This will give us the hardness in this flatness.
But our construction is flexible in this flatness.
Here we recall the school geometry course. We have a quadrangle with pairs of equal sides.
What should we do to be sure that angles are 90 degrees? The easiest way is diagonals.
If diagonals are equal, that means, that angles are 90 degrees.
We welded through all the horizontal seams. Now we are to work with vertical seams.
What's the most interesting thing? Ever before I would have flipped the table to transform vertical seams into horizontal ones.
But I'm more experienced now, vertical seams would be easier and more comfortable to make.
If you do the arc welding, or TIG welding, then seam welding occurs from the bottom.
So slag won't cover the weld and won't interfere the welding process.
But when you do the semi-auto welding, the formed metal drops flow down, helping you to do the weld.
We will clean welds with a scotch-brite.
Now we'll move to the welding of internals. It will be the crate, made from 40x20 tube.
We chose the tube with expectation of laying out the chamotte brick, ShB-8, it has 60mm thickness.
This is a plate in the center. Here we will place the forge.
We place the plate on equal distances from 3 sides, because we want to approach the forge from every side.
Now we should weld on some cross pipes. This will give us the hardness and allow to place some sheets of metal.
We will weld on another tube, under the plate, because it can deform itself after some time very much.
Even such a little thing can give us the good result.
I remember one story, about a disc grinder...
We have amazing people on our welding manufacturing. They are like those people from jokes, one loses the ball, another breaks it.
One day, they brought the Bort disc grinder and said: "It's broken."
While I was trying to figure out the problem, I gave them the MAKITA tool.
They left, I dismantled the grinder and figured out what's the deal. Firstly, it was out of brushes, we had to change them.
An extra kit of brushes comes with the grinder. Secondly, the string from cotton gloves wounded up on the collector. I fixed that, assembled everything and decided to
leave them with MAKITA grinder. I left the Bort grinder here. I just didn't want to throw it out.
Three days later, guys came again and asked:
"Did you fix our grinder? Take yours, give our grinder back, it's more interesting to work with it."
The crate is ready, now we needn't flip the framing, just weld the "legs" from that side.
If you make the tool for yourself, logically, you try to make it as convenient as possible.
And I do so, I'm trying to do the forge only for myself. We'll fix the pillars on 3 points.
One, two, three.
So we have the corner, hanging in the air. That's not bad because it will take no effect on the stress.
Before welding the pillars, we should measure the perpendiculars.
If the pillar's vertical...
is deflected in our direction where we would do the weld,
then we should deflect it back. If we'll place the tack, having the pillar in our direction, we won't be able to move it back.
So we need to tilt it away from us, set the tack and only then align it.
The table is finished, pillars are welded, it's an awesome thing. If you shorten it, you'll get a nice office desk.
Now we should cover the whole surface with sheet metal in order to lay out bricks.
The biggest sheet I've found was the one we draw Glamdring on, the sword from Lord of the Rings, you can watch the video about it right here...
And we'll fill in the rest with chunks.
We're out of the welding mix for semi-auto, so we have to switch to the arc welding.
We set the pillars, it's up to the crossbar. We will weld on that 40x20 tube.
I calculated all cuttings so an exhaust hood can be made out of one sheet. I have already lined everything out, so we'll cut everything out on CNC.
We've got some kind of a pan. We've tacked it at the edges so sheets won't lower under their weight.
Now we flip it over, and it should align itself to the table. And weld the connections with tacks.
We'll flip the hood one more time. Cut the diagonals in the center and pull those triangles out, they'll determine the pipe installation location. I can say, we made the hood without any excesses.
The exhaust hood is finished. We've made the guidings. Now we need to do the first tube segment.
We'll use the rest of the sheet. We'll cut out 4 parts, bend them and make the tube.
Well, everything is perfect.
We can weld the tube and install the hood above the forge.
You know, I've been thinking...
Covering the whole surface with chamotte brick is kinda... boldly.
Firstly, I decided to cover only the furnace with chamotte and cover everything else with kiln brick
But then I remembered that our workshop is in the area of the stone-processing plant where granite rocks are cut into various things.
So we've got a little gift and we'll cover the forge surface with granite.
It's time to move the forge to the place where it should be.
If we lay out the granite first, the forge weight will increase by 150 kilos. It would be way harder to move.
Well, that's the place of our furnace. Why here? It's because when we moved in here, it was the initial layout. The furnace was intended to be here.
In future, there will be one more power hammer where we have gas forges.
So't was a temporary decision. If we pushed the furnace closer to the exit, it would greatly restrict the transport entry.
So, right now, if we open the gate, the forklift can go through. If we have a large order of spiral stairs, f.e., it can be loaded into the car and taken out.
If the forge is placed in the middle of the room, then there is no such chance. I don't want to place the forge at the wall because it will interfere our work.
When we have the forge like this, we can approach it from every side, very comfortable.
Such plates are considered to be the waste on plants. They have no particular size and to fit it into the forge, they should be fitted.
But I never worked with stone and I have no special tools except for...
Now we can lay out those pieces and cover with sand.
In the process of exploitation, the sand will thicken itself and we'll fill the cracks with it. It came out nicely done, I like it. The main thing is, if we want to change something,
those stones are easy to take out and replace with everything we want.
Yes, the minimum program is completed. The forge is finished. Of course, we will change something, improve it, buy more chamotte, not that we had outside.
It's time to test it!
Actually, that's all. Thanks for watching, subscribe, press the LIKE button, leave comments, watch our other videos. See you!