The Wood Whisperer is sponsored by Powermatic and Titebond.
Well this is my miter station.
And you might be thinking that it doesn't quite look
like other miter stations you've seen,
because there's not a lot of the bells and whistles
you typically see.
I don't have a fence system that goes all the way across
and really all I have are cabinets.
I've got a couple banks of drawers, some doors,
and then that's just really serving as support surface
for where the action happens here at the saw.
Now I don't think fences are necessary,
primarily because the only fence that really matters
on a miter saw is the one that comes with it.
A lot of people assume that having a nice, long fence
is gonna help with longer work pieces
and I guess, in some ways it might,
but I find it to be problematic,
because if the piece isn't dead straight
you may actually have this part of the board
causing changes over here
and this is really where it matters,
so I wanna be nice and square near the point
where I'm making the cut.
Furthermore, a fence that goes right in the middle
of a tabletop surface means this surface
is less useful to me,
because there's always something in my way.
Now if you're the kind of person
who takes any horizontal surface
and tends to cover it with stuff
you might find the fence quite useful,
because it kind of prevents you from doing that.
Or if you use the space behind the fence
to put additional cabinetry and storage
that might be a good use for it as well,
but by no means, for most woodworkers, is a fence necessary.
So think long and hard about it
before you actually install one.
And you might be wondering about stops,
how does that work if you don't have a fence?
Well, you could put a T-track right into the top surface
and make your own flip stop.
Or buy a manufactured commercial product
for something like this.
But this works just fine.
Now you probably noticed that the saw is offset to one side,
it is not centered.
So I've got about eight feet to the left of the blade
and four feet to the right.
We offset, because if we put this guy in the middle
I'd have six feet to the left
and six feet to the right,
but my total max capacity would only be six feet.
At least this way with an offset
I can do as much as eight feet on one side
and then a shorter amount to the other side.
So offsetting, if you don't have unlimited space,
is a little bit more efficient
and gives you more capacity.
Even though the dust collection on this saw
really isn't very effective
I still have it hooked up to a dust vac
that lives under here.
I've got a little alcove that I use for a garbage can
and my off cuts and scraps go in there.
The left cabinet has two doors
and a bunch of slide-out trays.
And on the right side just traditional drawers
with all kinds of stuff in 'em.
So this is a Guild project
and if you're really interested in all the measurements
and the plans and the full set of videos
you can certainly go check that out
or you could just enjoy this free version of the video
where I give you highlights of the entire process.
Let's get to it.
This project requires six sheets of 3/4 inch plywood
and two sheets of 1/4 inch.
I'm using Russian birch for its consistency and flatness,
but honestly, any shop-grade plywood will do.
I'll start by making the cases.
I cut all of my parts to rough side on the floor
and then square things up at the MFT.
The rest of the cuts are at the table saw.
The side pieces require notches for the toe kicks.
I like cutting these at the bandsaw with a magnetic stop.
I also cut notches where the stretchers
will connect to the sides.
Next, I'll cut rabbets and dados into the stretchers.
Once all the joinery is cut
the cabinets go together pretty quickly
with glue and screws.
Each cabinet will receive leveling feet,
which will be essential for a project like a miter station.
And my shop floors are wonky,
so these are gonna really help a lot.
The right cabinet will get 10 drawers.
The drawer boxes are pretty straightforward,
being made from the same plywood
with rabbets, grooves, glue, and screws.
The left cabinet will have shallow trays
instead of deep drawers.
I'll simply wrap a piece of 3/4 inch ply
with additional plywood strips
to make a strong and sturdy tray.
The tops are just a double layup of plywood
with glue and screws bringing it all together.
The screw heads will be on the bottom,
so we'll never see 'em.
You just gotta make sure they're not in the path
of one of the T-tracks that we'll install later.
I'll trim out the tops with some solid wood
to protect the edges and dress it up a bit.
The tops are cut to final dimension
and the strips are added with miters at the corners.
Now for the hardware.
Lots of full extension slides on this one.
With the cabinets on their side
I use spacers for a dummy-proof installation.
Now for some solid wood drawer fronts.
In a previous video I showed you how you can use screws
in the handle holes to hold the drawer fronts in place.
Here's another method that involves shooting
a couple of brads.
With the drawer fronts in place
we could then drive screws from the inside
for a permanent connection
and then drill for the handles.
Next up, we need to make some doors.
The doors will have solid wood frames and plywood panels.
I'll cut the grooves in the rails and stiles
and then use the Domino for the joinery.
Now to install the hinges.
These are pretty standard European cup hinges,
except for the fact that they are zero protrusion.
That means that when the door is open
it won't get in the way of the sliding trays.
Now I'll rout some grooves for T-tracks in the tops.
The T-tracks will allow me to connect
various hold-downs and stops.
Next up, leveling.
With a laser line on the wall
I'll make sure that all three cabinets are in the same plane
and then screw the cabinets to the wall.
After applying some finish,
I'll install the T-tracks.
Because I might not have the same miter saw forever
I'm installing the saw section on top of movable cleats.
If I ever get a different saw
it shouldn't be too hard to adjust the height.
Now I need a few holes here and there
for dust collection and power.
And in comes the saw.
For the flip stop I cut a groove in a block
and then drop in a strip of material
that will ride in it's E slot.
I'm actually making two stops at once here.
I can then drill holes for bolts
and cut the blank into two pieces.
I then drill a hole all the way through the end grain
and insert a piece of threaded rod.
Now I can take a small piece of aluminum,
drill a hole for the rod,
and round over the corners, so that it can rotate freely.
With a lock nut on the other end
and a little star nob at the top
I've got a pretty reliable flip stop.
And finally, time to load up the cabinets.
For the upper cabinets I went with RTA
or ready to assemble.
Sometimes when time is money
it's just better to buy things
that you don't feel like making yourself.
And after building the miter station,
as well as a whole 'nother set of cabinets
on the other side of the shop
I was more than ready to get back
to making my usual furniture,
so RTA did the trick.
The funny thing is the doors up top
took another six months for me to get around to making,
but I used off cuts from my recent hall tree project
to make them.
There are a lot of miter station styles out there
and it's important to find one
that best suits your work style and storage needs.
For me a system with no fence, big work surfaces,
and lots of storage fits the bill.
If you want additional detail on this project
feel free to head over to The Wood Whisperer Guild
and check it out.
Or take a look at the video we did
on quick, high quality cabinets last year.
The construction of that one
is very similar to the miter station,
except that we build a level platform
instead of using leveling feet
in order to combat the horrific sloop.
Thanks for watching.