Practice English Speaking&Listening with: No Fence Miter Station

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Well this is my miter station.

And you might be thinking that it doesn't quite look

like other miter stations you've seen,

because there's not a lot of the bells and whistles

you typically see.

I don't have a fence system that goes all the way across

and really all I have are cabinets.

I've got a couple banks of drawers, some doors,

and then that's just really serving as support surface

for where the action happens here at the saw.

Now I don't think fences are necessary,

primarily because the only fence that really matters

on a miter saw is the one that comes with it.

A lot of people assume that having a nice, long fence

is gonna help with longer work pieces

and I guess, in some ways it might,

but I find it to be problematic,

because if the piece isn't dead straight

you may actually have this part of the board

causing changes over here

and this is really where it matters,

so I wanna be nice and square near the point

where I'm making the cut.

Furthermore, a fence that goes right in the middle

of a tabletop surface means this surface

is less useful to me,

because there's always something in my way.

Now if you're the kind of person

who takes any horizontal surface

and tends to cover it with stuff

you might find the fence quite useful,

because it kind of prevents you from doing that.

Or if you use the space behind the fence

to put additional cabinetry and storage

that might be a good use for it as well,

but by no means, for most woodworkers, is a fence necessary.

So think long and hard about it

before you actually install one.

And you might be wondering about stops,

how does that work if you don't have a fence?

Well, you could put a T-track right into the top surface

and make your own flip stop.

Or buy a manufactured commercial product

for something like this.

But this works just fine.

Now you probably noticed that the saw is offset to one side,

it is not centered.

So I've got about eight feet to the left of the blade

and four feet to the right.

We offset, because if we put this guy in the middle

I'd have six feet to the left

and six feet to the right,

but my total max capacity would only be six feet.

At least this way with an offset

I can do as much as eight feet on one side

and then a shorter amount to the other side.

So offsetting, if you don't have unlimited space,

is a little bit more efficient

and gives you more capacity.

Even though the dust collection on this saw

really isn't very effective

I still have it hooked up to a dust vac

that lives under here.

I've got a little alcove that I use for a garbage can

and my off cuts and scraps go in there.

The left cabinet has two doors

and a bunch of slide-out trays.

And on the right side just traditional drawers

with all kinds of stuff in 'em.

So this is a Guild project

and if you're really interested in all the measurements

and the plans and the full set of videos

you can certainly go check that out

at thewoodwhispererguild.com,

or you could just enjoy this free version of the video

where I give you highlights of the entire process.

Let's get to it.

This project requires six sheets of 3/4 inch plywood

and two sheets of 1/4 inch.

I'm using Russian birch for its consistency and flatness,

but honestly, any shop-grade plywood will do.

I'll start by making the cases.

I cut all of my parts to rough side on the floor

and then square things up at the MFT.

The rest of the cuts are at the table saw.

The side pieces require notches for the toe kicks.

I like cutting these at the bandsaw with a magnetic stop.

I also cut notches where the stretchers

will connect to the sides.

Next, I'll cut rabbets and dados into the stretchers.

Once all the joinery is cut

the cabinets go together pretty quickly

with glue and screws.

Each cabinet will receive leveling feet,

which will be essential for a project like a miter station.

And my shop floors are wonky,

so these are gonna really help a lot.

The right cabinet will get 10 drawers.

The drawer boxes are pretty straightforward,

being made from the same plywood

with rabbets, grooves, glue, and screws.

The left cabinet will have shallow trays

instead of deep drawers.

I'll simply wrap a piece of 3/4 inch ply

with additional plywood strips

to make a strong and sturdy tray.

The tops are just a double layup of plywood

with glue and screws bringing it all together.

The screw heads will be on the bottom,

so we'll never see 'em.

You just gotta make sure they're not in the path

of one of the T-tracks that we'll install later.

I'll trim out the tops with some solid wood

to protect the edges and dress it up a bit.

The tops are cut to final dimension

and the strips are added with miters at the corners.

Now for the hardware.

Lots of full extension slides on this one.

With the cabinets on their side

I use spacers for a dummy-proof installation.

Now for some solid wood drawer fronts.

In a previous video I showed you how you can use screws

in the handle holes to hold the drawer fronts in place.

Here's another method that involves shooting

a couple of brads.

With the drawer fronts in place

we could then drive screws from the inside

for a permanent connection

and then drill for the handles.

Next up, we need to make some doors.

The doors will have solid wood frames and plywood panels.

I'll cut the grooves in the rails and stiles

and then use the Domino for the joinery.

Now to install the hinges.

These are pretty standard European cup hinges,

except for the fact that they are zero protrusion.

That means that when the door is open

it won't get in the way of the sliding trays.

Now I'll rout some grooves for T-tracks in the tops.

The T-tracks will allow me to connect

various hold-downs and stops.

Next up, leveling.

With a laser line on the wall

I'll make sure that all three cabinets are in the same plane

and then screw the cabinets to the wall.

After applying some finish,

I'll install the T-tracks.

Because I might not have the same miter saw forever

I'm installing the saw section on top of movable cleats.

If I ever get a different saw

it shouldn't be too hard to adjust the height.

Now I need a few holes here and there

for dust collection and power.

And in comes the saw.

For the flip stop I cut a groove in a block

and then drop in a strip of material

that will ride in it's E slot.

I'm actually making two stops at once here.

I can then drill holes for bolts

and cut the blank into two pieces.

I then drill a hole all the way through the end grain

and insert a piece of threaded rod.

Now I can take a small piece of aluminum,

drill a hole for the rod,

and round over the corners, so that it can rotate freely.

With a lock nut on the other end

and a little star nob at the top

I've got a pretty reliable flip stop.

And finally, time to load up the cabinets.

For the upper cabinets I went with RTA

or ready to assemble.

Sometimes when time is money

it's just better to buy things

that you don't feel like making yourself.

And after building the miter station,

as well as a whole 'nother set of cabinets

on the other side of the shop

I was more than ready to get back

to making my usual furniture,

so RTA did the trick.

The funny thing is the doors up top

took another six months for me to get around to making,

but I used off cuts from my recent hall tree project

to make them.

There are a lot of miter station styles out there

and it's important to find one

that best suits your work style and storage needs.

For me a system with no fence, big work surfaces,

and lots of storage fits the bill.

If you want additional detail on this project

feel free to head over to The Wood Whisperer Guild

and check it out.

Or take a look at the video we did

on quick, high quality cabinets last year.

The construction of that one

is very similar to the miter station,

except that we build a level platform

instead of using leveling feet

in order to combat the horrific sloop.

Thanks for watching.

The Description of No Fence Miter Station